WVO and no modifications to car, ?s - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Big J · #16 03-13-2008, 08:22 AM

Thank you for all of the replies. I was doubting it was worth paying out lots of money plus the time to install a heated kit. I may want to do some minor modifications it sounds like, but the major modifications sound optional, though they may extend the life of your engine.

NC Benz · #17 03-13-2008, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grindMARC

Is that a typo? B100 + VO is very, very different than D2 + VO.
When you say BioD, maybe you meant something like B15 (15% B100 and 85% D2). Just trying to clarify for the sake of the thread.

Sorry I wasnt very clear. You can add any biodiesel under B100. Even then, you need to know the gel point of the B100. It is different for every producer.

D2 is basically Diesel plus kerosene. Kero is still IMHO a good mix. But knowing how cold it gets up there, Diesel/Kero during the real cold times is best. I have gotten real used to the warmer temps here in NC.

It probably would be best to listen to the guys that are up there, than my experience in the winter.

NC Benz · #18 03-13-2008, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biodiesel300TD

I run my 240D on WVO in a two tank system. I'm not sure the risk of a single tank system is worth killing my engine, although I have spent a fair amount of time figuring out how I could do it and have it be realiable.

You can run WVO in an unheated system. The deal with VO is that it won't burn completely if it's not hot enough. VO is too viscous to burn properly at most ambient temps. When VO is too thick it won't spray out of the injector properly. Which can cause problems, namely incomplete burning of the VO. What happens when WVO and it doesn't burn completely, among other things, it gums up the piston rings, so they don't seal to the cylinder wall like it should. Which eventually will begin to allow the unburned VO into the motor oil. When motor and veggie oil mix the motor oil in the engine will polymerize, turns to sticky goo. I've seen it happen. When your oil turns to goo your engine gets no lurbication, and thus it will seize in short order. The trick to all this is that there is a threshold for how much VO can be in the motor oil before it polyermizes. The motor oil will stay oily until a certain volume of VO gets into the motor oil. At that point the oil imediatly turns to goo. If you change your oil often you can avoid this.

The worst part about any single tank conversion is you are starting the engine on cold VO, which is the worst thing you can do. You can do some pretty simple modifications to solve this issue. If you install injector line heaters that you can turn on before you start the car. And if you created a heated loop with that the injection pump and an auxillary fuel pump that you could also turn on before the car is started you could raise the temp of the VO before the car starts and alleviate the cold VO starts.

Which is why I use the block heater when it gets cold (cold defined here as anything under 32F).

Your description is all fine and dandy, but how would you explain the fact that my blowby has DECREASED since I started using WVO? To me that means the rings are clear.... well clearER.

The whole idea is to get the WVO fluid enough to spray. That can be done either by heat or mixing with something like Kero or both.

IMHO just putting on injector heater would not be as important as heating the oil before it gets to the IP. When I add heaters I will be on the line from the tank as opposed to injectors.

NC Benz · #19 03-13-2008, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big J

Thank you for all of the replies. I was doubting it was worth paying out lots of money plus the time to install a heated kit. I may want to do some minor modifications it sounds like, but the major modifications sound optional, though they may extend the life of your engine.

Or just run WVO when it is warmer out. And run diesel when you think it is too cold. You are in GA so it will be warm real quick. I am already seeing a change in how my car runs and how the oil filters.

mobetta · #20 03-13-2008, 10:31 AM

FWIW, my car has started w/ just straight wvo down to 0F.I did have the line heaters going while I did a regular glo cycle. the filters will clog, though.

IMHO, the biggest threat of a single tank is the veggy getting past the rings on warm up, and causing the engine oil to polymerize. I use syn oil, and check it often( for thickening-not just the level on the dipstick), never go over 5K, no matter what. there is a plant based engine oil available stateside now, which may or may not prevent/eliminate poly.

another thought that I have is on a veggy diesel is to use water injection to keep the coking down. I have yet to implement this, but I do have a plan in the works.....

BioDieseLandon · #21 03-14-2008, 05:06 PM

This is true. i guess the good thing about using your engine coolant is your car is already regulating the temp for you.

Biodiesel300TD · #22 03-15-2008, 02:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NC Benz

Which is why I use the block heater when it gets cold (cold defined here as anything under 32F).

Your description is all fine and dandy, but how would you explain the fact that my blowby has DECREASED since I started using WVO? To me that means the rings are clear.... well clearER.

The whole idea is to get the WVO fluid enough to spray. That can be done either by heat or mixing with something like Kero or both.

IMHO just putting on injector heater would not be as important as heating the oil before it gets to the IP. When I add heaters I will be on the line from the tank as opposed to injectors.

A block heater isn't going to help starting up on cold oil. The block heater only heats the block and won't heat the coolant in a coolant fuel heater. It will shorten the time it takes the engine to heat up but you still don't have warm fuel at startup or for the first several minutes.

The reason I like the injector line heaters is because you can boost the VO temps up after the IP. From what I have read and heard the IP is not designed to deal with fuels that are up in the 160*F range, So heating the VO after the pump reduces the wear on the IP. And they are cheap and easy to install. I think heating before the IP is also important. You don't want to have thick VO running through you IP either. On my two tank system I have two coolant heaters and a Vegtherm before the IP, and the injector line heaters as well.