I've searched and searched but I can't find a way to test the pH level in the WVO that I am collecting. I am trying to be on the safe side and make sure I am getting only the best oil to use so I don't cause any issues down the road. I went to a pool supply store and got some litmus paper test strips but I am not sure it worked very well. When I googled testing the oil pH I did see a guy who used an electronic pH reader. Has anyone done this and had good results? Is there another method that I should use to test for the pH?

Thanks

__________________
My first Mercedes
1983 300SD - 136K

1982 Toyota Supra - 160K currently for sale

Try a search at Biodiesel.infopop

You may have success with using Ph litmus paper strips on the wash water if you choos to mist wash your WVO. Another option is to use a Total Dissolved Solids meter on the wash water.

Sun Wizard on info-pop is pretty well versed in this area.

__________________
Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend

Litmus paper won't work on the oil.
You can get a good idea of the PH level by putting some wvo in a jar and adding water. shake it up real good then test the water.

Mist wash wvo????

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination

Oil does not have a Ph....

It does however have an Acid-Number....

The only way to test accurately for this is by a Titration-Test....

Look under any BioDiesel tutorial for how to perform a Titration-test.

Ph Meters/ litmus paper will give meaningless results....

__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

Agreed. Although I currently make bio and don't run WVO (I'm headed that way though) I use a great method for determining a pH of 8. Learned about it on one of the above mentioned sites. Mix a little turmeric (from the spice counter at the grocery) with 91% isoprophyl alcohol. The exact proportions don't really matter. Put a few drops of the solution in a small container of your oil. If the pH is <8, the solution will be yellow. If the pH is> 8, it will turn some shade of red. Works great and is super easy. I'm not really sure what the pH of oil should be (somewhere < 8 I'm sure) but a pH of 8 is what we are shooting for with bio. Hope this helps.

__________________
John Schroader
bio burnin' 83 300D, '83 300 SD, '79 240D
"I've never met a man who was good at making excuses who was good at anything else" Ben Franklin
"You cannot permanently help a man by doing for him what he could and should do for himself" Abraham Lincoln

See http://www.burnveg.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5
for TDS meter testing which shows acids/bases/salts/soaps in your VO, much better than PH.

__________________
87 Mercedes 300TD, 81 300D, 95 Dodge Cummins 4x4

Yup!

__________________
Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend