617..........WVO engine..........won't start - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Ian White · #1 08-24-2009, 12:19 AM

I replaced the engine on my 300sd. I replaced the injectors and lines, and now i cannot get it started, I did a valve adjustment, replaced the ffilters, The p.o. ran WVO and i want to run striaght diesel. I cannot get it to buck or even make a attempt to fire. I have cracked each line while cranking and rid most the bubbles. What could be the matter? IP timing off? i am drawn ablank!

HELP PLEASE

IAN WHITE

barry123400 · #2 08-24-2009, 12:28 AM

For the time it takes do a compression check. If you did not hear the motor run before you purchased it .

Just before going there though make sure the glow plugs are working properly and if so the engine should catch with wd 40 sprayed into the intake. What story were you given with the engine on purchase?

Ian White · #3 08-24-2009, 12:35 AM

clean low milage (200K) car that ran wvo i bought the engine from a shop that used the tranny out of the car, it had been sideswiped.

Brian Carlton · #4 08-24-2009, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian White

clean low milage (200K) car that ran wvo i bought the engine from a shop that used the tranny out of the car, it had been sideswiped.

Have you seen it run, personally?

If not, then you have no idea what you've got and every single possibility that would prevent a start must be investigated:

1) excessively tight intake valves
2) no functional glow system
3) IP timing way off spec
4) WVO in IP and lines
5) low compression

With no history, it's a long and miserable task to determine why an engine that has previously run on WVO will not start............unless you get lucky.

barry123400 · #5 08-24-2009, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian White

clean low milage (200K) car that ran wvo i bought the engine from a shop that used the tranny out of the car, it had been sideswiped.

Well if they were not lying about the circumstances of the cars demise. You should be able to get it up and running pretty easy. Unfortunatly in the car business some people are somewhat less than ethical. It's up to you to judge the seller or sellers.

Assuming they are ethical really check the glow circuit out first. Followed by getting the air out of the fuel system.

All things being equal with decent compression and a working glow system it should run a little by injecting some wd 40 directly into the intake. As I previously mentioned.

If it will not I would not fool around but really do the compression check. There is no harm either as it kind of lets you know the general condition of the engines compression anyways.

kingdoc1 · #6 08-24-2009, 11:31 AM

Check the main fuel filter and housing. The last car I worked on that had been run on WVO had unbelieveable nasty gunk in there, so much so that I just changed the whole setup from another car.

Also check the banjo bolt/pressure relief valve at the IP, it might be clogged/stuck.

Not to be the bearer of bad news, but I have seen WVO destroy the IP as well, you might need to swap your old one on. The friend I know that runs WVO gets about 30,000 miles per IP, doesn't sound economical to me, but hey--it's his car.

oldsinner111 · #7 08-24-2009, 11:37 AM

The friend I know that runs WVO gets about 30,000 miles per IP, doesn't sound economical to me, but hey--it's his car.[/QUOTE]

Thats why its so important to blend in 30% diesel fuel.Less strain on IP.Also speeds dewatering.

lupin..the..3rd · #8 08-25-2009, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian White

clean low milage (200K) car that ran wvo i bought the engine from a shop that used the tranny out of the car, it had been sideswiped.

IMO "clean low mileage" and "ran wvo" are contradictory statements.

Every WVO engine that I've taken apart has been extremely gunked up and nasty inside. And they usually stink like death and rotting grease, the smell is horrible. Not to mention the wiring and hoses under the hood that are all hacked up from the ghetto installation job. I refuse to work on WVO cars now, just turn them away, go somewhere else.

Do you get fuel coming out if you crack the injector lines open a bit? Best of luck I hope you get it sorted out.

kingdoc1 · #9 08-25-2009, 01:20 PM

Try filling the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil, let them soak for a couple days, and recheck compression. It may take several tries to get them all freed up. Good Luck.

jt20 · #10 08-24-2009, 01:11 AM

on the fuel filter housing there is banjo bolt that faces the engine. Loosen it a turn or so then pump the hand primer until no bubbles come out of there. Tighten it up

Loosen all the injector lines again one turn, crank the engine WOT until absolutely no bubbles are present at the injector nut.

tighten up, fire up if everything is in good working order.

Ian White · #11 08-24-2009, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt20

on the fuel filter housing there is banjo bolt that faces the engine. Loosen it a turn or so then pump the hand primer until no bubbles come out of there. Tighten it up

Loosen all the injector lines again one turn, crank the engine WOT until absolutely no bubbles are present at the injector nut.

tighten up, fire up if everything is in good working order.

When I bought the engine I didnt hear it run but he said all is well. Bough from a reputable mechanics shop. JT20: There was a line loose that went to the top of the return filter housing, it went to the side that faced the side of the engine. There was no banjo bolt in it, so I replaced it with one from my old engine. I swaped my running injectors from my old engine in to this one that wont start. The nozzles are moarchs done by c sean watts less than 6 months ago so I'm not sure where the problem lyes. Couls someone post a thread showing how to check the ip timing? Before I swapped in this eng. I adjusted all the valves, and most were loose, but some were tight. They;re all good now though. What could this be, I dont want to keep sawing on it because i am a fraid it will take its toll on the starter. Suggestion?

barry123400 · #12 08-24-2009, 03:03 PM

Start it and keep it running by random application of wd 40 into the intake through the centre of the air filter to save the starter. Takes a helper but thats usually not a big deal. If the fuel system is basically functional it will take over from the wd 40 soon enough.

If the shop stated they heard it running the timing has to be right or close enough. Or they are lying. Not many choices here.

jt20 · #13 08-24-2009, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian White

There was a line loose that went to the top of the return filter housing, it went to the side that faced the side of the engine. There was no banjo bolt in it, so I replaced it with one from my old engine.

woah cowboy, elaborate on this. What parts did you replace?

the clear line we are talking about goes from the back of the IP near the engine and has a banjo on each end. The bolt that goes into the filter housing is a typical, hollowed banjo bolt. The bolt that goes into the back of the IP is a banjo bolt with a check valve inside of it - pressure relief valve.

That must be there for proper timing.

you still haven't confirmed that you primed the system as previously described. It takes alot of engine turning @ WOT to clear the injector lines when they are empty - just the way it is. Don't fret for the starter, use in intervals of 10 seconds with cooling time in between.

Look in the "Resources" link at the top of the forum for a DIY on timing and post any questions in that thread.

Ian White · #14 08-24-2009, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt20

woah cowboy, elaborate on this. What parts did you replace?

the clear line we are talking about goes from the back of the IP near the engine and has a banjo on each end. The bolt that goes into the filter housing is a typical, hollowed banjo bolt. The bolt that goes into the back of the IP is a banjo bolt with a check valve inside of it - pressure relief valve.

That must be there for proper timing.

you still haven't confirmed that you primed the system as previously described. It takes alot of engine turning @ WOT to clear the injector lines when they are empty - just the way it is. Don't fret for the starter, use in intervals of 10 seconds with cooling time in between.

Look in the "Resources" link at the top of the forum for a DIY on timing and post any questions in that thread.

Yes i replaced the banjo bolt in the back of the ip that is the pressure relief valve with a good replacement. As for priming I had diesel at the in jectors, and I took off the cigar hose and pumped that hand pump and got diesel out of it. I am confused though, when i pump the hand primer vigorously, i hear the sound of something going woosh woosh woosh on every pump stroke. I am getting fed up with this. Also I pulled the injectors out and cranked it over and it made a pretty good mist of diesel out the holes. Uhh!

bosshog383 · #15 08-25-2009, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ian White

When I bought the engine I didnt hear it run but he said all is well. Bough from a reputable mechanics shop. JT20: There was a line loose that went to the top of the return filter housing, it went to the side that faced the side of the engine. There was no banjo bolt in it, so I replaced it with one from my old engine. I swaped my running injectors from my old engine in to this one that wont start. The nozzles are moarchs done by c sean watts less than 6 months ago so I'm not sure where the problem lyes. Couls someone post a thread showing how to check the ip timing? Before I swapped in this eng. I adjusted all the valves, and most were loose, but some were tight. They;re all good now though. What could this be, I dont want to keep sawing on it because i am a fraid it will take its toll on the starter. Suggestion?

Your low compression could also be caused by incorrect valve adjustment. Did you follow correct procedure when doing this?