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  #16  
Old 08-24-2009, 04:20 PM
JEBalles's Avatar
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i normally wouldn't sanction the use of ether, but it doesn't look like you have much to loose. After, that is, you check the timing.

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  #17  
Old 08-24-2009, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
i normally wouldn't sanction the use of ether, but it doesn't look like you have much to loose.
The only think to lose is the cylinder head gasket or a piston..........other than that...........I agree with you.
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  #18  
Old 08-24-2009, 05:02 PM
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I have used propane to start.Propane torch with end removed,and tied into place.Where it sprays into intake for air filter.
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  #19  
Old 08-24-2009, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
lose
oops

And I figure if it does blow a head gasket or crack a piston it doesn't really matter because the engine was beyond repair anyway.
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  #20  
Old 08-24-2009, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian White View Post
There was a line loose that went to the top of the return filter housing, it went to the side that faced the side of the engine. There was no banjo bolt in it, so I replaced it with one from my old engine.

woah cowboy, elaborate on this. What parts did you replace?

the clear line we are talking about goes from the back of the IP near the engine and has a banjo on each end. The bolt that goes into the filter housing is a typical, hollowed banjo bolt. The bolt that goes into the back of the IP is a banjo bolt with a check valve inside of it - pressure relief valve.

That must be there for proper timing.

you still haven't confirmed that you primed the system as previously described. It takes alot of engine turning @ WOT to clear the injector lines when they are empty - just the way it is. Don't fret for the starter, use in intervals of 10 seconds with cooling time in between.

Look in the "Resources" link at the top of the forum for a DIY on timing and post any questions in that thread.
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  #21  
Old 08-24-2009, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
woah cowboy, elaborate on this. What parts did you replace?

the clear line we are talking about goes from the back of the IP near the engine and has a banjo on each end. The bolt that goes into the filter housing is a typical, hollowed banjo bolt. The bolt that goes into the back of the IP is a banjo bolt with a check valve inside of it - pressure relief valve.

That must be there for proper timing.

you still haven't confirmed that you primed the system as previously described. It takes alot of engine turning @ WOT to clear the injector lines when they are empty - just the way it is. Don't fret for the starter, use in intervals of 10 seconds with cooling time in between.

Look in the "Resources" link at the top of the forum for a DIY on timing and post any questions in that thread.
Yes i replaced the banjo bolt in the back of the ip that is the pressure relief valve with a good replacement. As for priming I had diesel at the in jectors, and I took off the cigar hose and pumped that hand pump and got diesel out of it. I am confused though, when i pump the hand primer vigorously, i hear the sound of something going woosh woosh woosh on every pump stroke. I am getting fed up with this. Also I pulled the injectors out and cranked it over and it made a pretty good mist of diesel out the holes. Uhh!
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  #22  
Old 08-25-2009, 12:12 AM
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Okay did a compression test and wow someone sold me a worn engine. Comp test #'s: cyl 1: 76 psi, cyl2: 49 psi, cyl 3: 111 psi, cyl 4: 145 psi, cyl 5: 151 psi. So now I am going back to talk to him about a refund. The funny thing is when i had the pickup and pan off there wasnt a spec of junk down there just look like a normal oil pan with 215k. I am pissed, I am thinking about ceasing to own my benz. Its turning into a money pit uhh!
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

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1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #23  
Old 08-25-2009, 01:01 AM
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those numbers are ridiculous. I would suspect stuck rings from sitting too long.

Try some solvent in the cylinder bores and let soak for a few days. Rotate 90* a few times, add solvent... etc..

Try a search for stuck rings, better advice from more knowledgeable members.

good luck on the refund.
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  #24  
Old 08-25-2009, 01:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt20 View Post
I would suspect stuck rings from sitting too long.

and, perhaps, corroded cylinder walls??
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  #25  
Old 08-25-2009, 02:35 AM
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Well jt, wheni pulled the injectors they had no guk on them indicative of cyl wall corosion. when I had the pan off I looked at the bore, which looked perfect. How can you unstick these rings? And why would they be stuck in the sprung in position even if the engine turns over fine ( albeit a little slow but never the less). What am I missing?

IW
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #26  
Old 08-25-2009, 02:39 AM
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Exclamation Freeing stuck rings in a 617???

Engine turns over fine but im thinking It has stuck rings beacuse the low low low compression numbers and also the fact that the mechanic I bought it from said it had sat a year or more, Compression numbers are:cyl 1: 76 psi, cyl2: 49 psi, cyl 3: 111 psi, cyl 4: 145 psi, cyl 5: 151 psi


ANY help is appreciated!

IW
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1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)
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  #27  
Old 08-25-2009, 06:01 AM
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It could be so. I don't see how the numbers could be so low from normal wear. I would remove the injectors or glow plugs and put in a few teaspoons of Marvel Mystery oil and let it sit for a week at least and then try towing it to start it. Let it set for a month if you have the patience.

Good luck.

Be sure to turn it over with the injectors out to get the liquid out of the cylinders first.

(with those low figures you may need to add mmo every day as it may run right past the rings).

Could be valve sealing issues too....or both.
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  #28  
Old 08-25-2009, 06:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian White View Post
Engine turns over fine but im thinking It has stuck rings beacuse the low low low compression numbers and also the fact that the mechanic I bought it from said it had sat a year or more, Compression numbers are:cyl 1: 76 psi, cyl2: 49 psi, cyl 3: 111 psi, cyl 4: 145 psi, cyl 5: 151 psi


ANY help is appreciated!

IW
Hi
If an engine is badly overheated, the piston rings can become weak (soft)and result in low compression numbers.
Joseph
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  #29  
Old 08-25-2009, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian White View Post
Engine turns over fine but im thinking It has stuck rings beacuse the low low low compression numbers and also the fact that the mechanic I bought it from said it had sat a year or more, Compression numbers are:cyl 1: 76 psi, cyl2: 49 psi, cyl 3: 111 psi, cyl 4: 145 psi, cyl 5: 151 psi


ANY help is appreciated!

IW
Ian,

Are you confident in your test setup? All 5 of those readings are really, really low.

Could you verify your compression tester somehow on another vehicle (preferably another 617)?

dd
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  #30  
Old 08-25-2009, 08:32 AM
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Ouch, fixing low compression in all cylinders, I believe, requires tearing down the engine. Seeing as you just bought the engine, the only reason to fix it is if you're looking for a hobby. See if you can get a refund.

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