So ive removed my trim and polished the dirty spots up where the trim used to reside and then i found that the car actually looks better without the trim on. So i decided to remove the trim entirely and fill in the trim holes. But thats where im lost ive heard numerous suggestions to remove all of the door pannels, and sand the insides then put fiberglass matt down behind the holes to support the bondo, but isnt that a bit extreme for some 1/4 inch wide holes? Any suggestions are greatly appriciated.

__________________
Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.

cervan,

you will definitely need to support bondo or whatever body filler you use with a supporting backside. personally, I would just go to the hardware store and buy some very thin gauge stainless steel and some quick drying 2 part epoxy glue instead of using fiberglass. cut about 1" diameter wider than the hole, scuff up the face side of the ss and the door panel. glue on and then you can fill in the pin hole.

i would get fiberglass body filler though as it is more waterproof than bondo that you'd buy at HD---or so I have read. now how are you going to paint it? to me, thats the bigger question and harder challenge

i found a paint that matches the color perfectly, (by accident actually) Since my drivers side fender was allready bondo'ed (due to stupid previous owner..) i played around with a few rattlecans until i found some Krylon black gloss paint that matches the pearl black mercedes paint exactly. The only thing that is different about the paint is the ammount of "sheen" or gloss and ill buy a clear coat and go over the rattle can base coat to match the rest of the car. I read on a few places that it would be best to either weld it, epoxy it, or some people say that if the holes are small enough they have had good success with both using a fiberglass stranded-bondo and making a small "indention" so that you can fill the holes with more bondo for support. i dont have the time to remove the fenders to do this, but i can remove the rest of the things to do the work. (door pannels and trunk panels.) here is a picture of how large the holes are, im going to try and make this work by, taking it down to bare metal, making a small "indention" so that i can fill it with bondo and strengthen the seam, and then go over it with three coats of primer.

here is a picture of how large the holes are (compared to a penny).

__________________
Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.

JB Weld the pennies in from behind.

Mix the JB Weld and let it setup for about 30-40 minutes so it's the consistency of filler. Then put enough on the penny or sheet metal that you can push some excess through the hole.

After it cures, sand it smooth. I'd bet you would only need a light application of spot/glaze putty if anything to finish it off before primer and paint.

JB Weld is waterproof and longer lasting than ANY body filler.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

So, Chad, you're using pocket change to fill holes in car bodies?

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

LOL.

Looks like they will fit as is with no sheet metal trimming needed. Why not use them.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

Wonder how it would look to paint the trim carefully off the car and then reinstall?

Stainless steel doesnt like to be painted :/

__________________
Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?

As long as they would add one additional commandment for you to keep thy religion to thyself.
George Carlin (Wonder where he is now..)

1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

pearl black 1983 240d 4speed (Converted!@$$%) atleast the tranny was rebuilt.

The trim is stainless? I thought it was aluminum.

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Either stainless or aluminum are difficult to paint. (Adhesion can be difficult w/o a phosphated surface. I do not know if you can get the parts phosphotized outside an OEM plant.) Aluminum does tend to be easier, though.