O.K. , I've been looking at progssivly more expen$ive wagons and found a decent looking one but it has that common rust stain coming out below both rear side windows and I'm concerned about paying $3K for a car needing $1,500 worth of rust repairs.... .

How are the aluminum trims removed with out damage ? I was looking at some wagons in junkyards and wanted to learn how to remove so I can get an idea of what to expect .

I really appreciate all the helpful replies and advice from the WagonHeads here

NONE of the ones I've recieved pictures and detailed descriptions is out of the running yet , I'm just hoping to find one closer to me .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

To determine just how bad the rust is take a look inside the inner wheel well compartments looking up towards the bottom of the window(use flashlight). You can also remove the lower window trim piece as the window hold down screw often is the culprit for rust and rust stain.

The railing trim is one continuous piece from front to back. It is held by a pressure fitting. Start at the front where it is thinnest using a hard plastic wedge and small hammer (using the palm of your hand starts to hurt after a while) to help the trim piece to release. Once you have it started take care not to apply too much pressure in any one area as the piece will bend. Continue towards the back. You might spray something like WD-40 to help release.

The "seam sealer" in the back sunroof drain channels often shrink allowing water in and thus, eventually, rust.

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too many w123's
84 280 SL 5 speed

I repaired bad rust damage in the rear windows of my wagon. If you have a welder, grinder, and some patience, it's not too bad. Getting the windows out is a little tricky. Use dadette123's method to remove the bottom railing trim. I broke a couple of the clips that held mine in - they were old an rusty. Then just carefully work the window seal starting at the top and back off of the frame on the inside while pushing out and the thing should pop right out.

I had to fabricate and weld in new metal seam pieces along the bottom window seam where the window seal mounts. I painted everything with POR-15 and then covered everything with a body seam sealer. I reused the original window seals as I couldn't find new ones and after a thick application of Dow Corning 111 they were nice and pliable again. I sealed the seals to the windows with a non hardening 3M sealer (which makes an awful sticky mess) and then reinstalled using nylon tools and the string method.

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'84 Euro 300TD Turbo, 192K

Check the bottom of the hatch for rust as well. The 123 hatches don't have drains, and when a leak develops that lets water into the hatch it just sits in the bottom and works away.

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I knew you guys would help me out here ! .

I'm keen to get a wagon but as a Yankee born & bred , I know and hate rusty cars

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better