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#1
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Preserving a W123
85 300D 177K miles. Trying to fend off the tin worm.
There's a section of sheet metal beneath the front bumper. It's body colored and subject to a lot of road rash type damage. This section, can it be removed or is it welded into place? I would like to fix the road rash issues as the part is not rotting out at this point. Can anyone suggest how I best might fix this area? I am thinking to sand it down as best I can, front and back, prime it with (?) por15, some eastwood product, or anything else known to protect well against rust and that would wear and hold up well. The back side would also be addressed via Por15 etc. I would then want to paint the outside portion to match the car's color. I'm thinking to go to paintscratch.com and have them mix me up a couple of rattle cans of the right color. I have this area to address as well as the arches at the wheel wells and a little right in back of the rear wheels. The car is really in good shape and is a daily driver that I want to preserve as long as possible. Any suggestions, including links to articles/vendors is greatly appreciated. Thanks
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. ![]() |
#2
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I know the part you speak of. I wouldn't spend too much time on it.
I would just clean it up a little and hit it up with some flat black Rustoleum.That way it blends in and is preserved. If there is rust, there is a rust converter. That you can do the spots with. Are you going for a show car, frame up resto? If so, disregard. |
#3
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Perfect. Nope, not a show car. I had a coupe that got severely ugly in that area, I just want this old sedan to hold up a bit better. I'm going to be tackling as much small rust as I can since there's really not a whole lot. I'm trying to stay off winter roads until the spring rains but may need to use the car now since I wrecked my wife's little SUV.
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1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel 1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2 1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD 2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be. ![]() |
#4
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I did more or less what you said in the first post - angle grinder wire brush, metal ready, POR 15, tie coat primer, stone chip paint, colour coat, and then a clear coat top...
Was it worth the effort? We'll see!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#5
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I think that center piece is just held in by a few screws and can be easily removed. The fenders sort of wrap around and under on the corners. Soak the screws in penetrating oil if they're rusty, then remove and have at it.
See this thread for a pic of a semi-mangled one. Headlight frame smashed on a W123 The bends show where it disconnects. |
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