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  #1  
Old 07-01-2013, 06:51 PM
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W123 Sunroof Drain. Massive Rust. Tips?

I bought this 78 300D last year, I knew it was going to be a hell of a project.

There was water on the floor and knew it was coming from the roof corners. I stripped the interior to get the mouse piss smell out, and bam, found this killer rust. Its on both sides.

For Photos, head right to the bottom. 78 300D Full Photos - Imgur

I'm not sure the best way to go about mending these drains. Honestly, not sure where to start. I was thinking a Dremel, JB Weld and some new pipe and tubing.

Does anyone know a right way to go about this?

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Old 07-01-2013, 08:30 PM
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I think based on the condition of the pictures (looks a lot worse than surface rust) your best bet is to find a junkyard or another member with a good sunroof pan. Once the headliner is out they are fairly easy to replace.
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:16 PM
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Wow - That's quite a mess. But cleaned up great on outside. Being in the middle of rust work on my car (interior also out), I suggest you have a look at the hood hinge pockets. On my car, the seams at bottom of pockets had rusted through and were letting water into car causing rust in various places.

Good Luck with it!
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:19 PM
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i recently repaired a sunroof drain on mine. pretty similar issue. in my case i cleaned and opened up the drain hole, then JB-welded in a short threaded brass pipe. i did several more applications of JBW to smooth out all the edges and gaps outside and in. when the (now relatively massive) joint was smooth i put POR-15 all over it. works great!
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC-Diesel View Post
I think based on the condition of the pictures (looks a lot worse than surface rust) your best bet is to find a junkyard or another member with a good sunroof pan. Once the headliner is out they are fairly easy to replace.
I'd love to take this approach, but I'd not like to replace the headliner haha, that sounds very expensive. The sunroof pan drains are indeed completely rotted, but with a mending and a new sunroof seal, it should last until this car is ready to be parted out. From what I've read here once a headliner is out it's quite a task to get back on. Is it necessary to renew the liner?
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Graham View Post
Wow - That's quite a mess. But cleaned up great on outside. Being in the middle of rust work on my car (interior also out), I suggest you have a look at the hood hinge pockets. On my car, the seams at bottom of pockets had rusted through and were letting water into car causing rust in various places.

Good Luck with it!
Ah thanks! Mine are still filled with leaves and gunk. I'll clean them up and see what they look like and possible work that needs to be done. The only water was from these drains, so hopefully the pockets are still solid.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by AwfulMechanic View Post
. From what I've read here once a headliner is out it's quite a task to get back on. Is it necessary to renew the liner?
One thing I found, was that it is very difficult to install the sunroof seal without lowering the pan. I only did the front seal, so only dismantled front side of headliner and some of pan screws just to let it drop a little at front. Makes seal installation much easier. By the way - don't buy a URO seal. They just do not fit. It's one place where you need the proper OE part.
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Old 07-01-2013, 10:46 PM
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By the way - don't buy a URO seal. They just do not fit. It's one place where you need the proper OE part.
Your the second user to tell me that! I will stay well clear of URO.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:57 PM
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I reuse headliners all the time. The key is being very gentle in removing them. And knowing where they are attached. I just took a headliner from an 82 and moved it to an 81 no problems. To get it back in right usually does require removing the back glass as the headliner gets tucked under there and glued to the pinch weld. ALso agree 100% with Graham. NO URO! This was one place I used the real mercedes part. They were not expensive. I also replaced the foam seal between the pan and roof. While I had the roof out I removed all rust, por-15 and chasis coat black. IT was a total rebuild I anticipate i will get many years before i have to fix anything on it!

Having the FSM works wonders. If you plan to part this out or not restore I would clean it up and JB weld that sucker as others have said.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:01 AM
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You are an impressive awful mechanic.
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:55 AM
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Don't forget, you can always do like a lot of other people have done....remover the felt strip and silicone the roof shut...
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:39 AM
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Removal of the head liner can be tricky - there is a lot of spray adhesive on the edges which tends to rip the fabric. I've seen new headliners advertised for about 100 euros over here...

...the problem is that there's a fair amount of foam between the head liner and the metal - that will be wet and still smell like the mice.

If I were you I'd go for the headliner removal and see if it will come out in one piece. Then do a replacement sun roof tray.

It seems like you are putting in a lot of effort to the car - it would be a shame to silly-cone the roof shut - see what Mike D has to say about silly-cone here =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/339888-w114-rocker-panel-repair.html
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Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:09 AM
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silly-cone
haha awesome.

I will definitely not silicone anything shut, I like the sunroof, slides around great. Well, it looks like I'm going to try and remove the headliner. Wish me luck.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:15 AM
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You are an impressive awful mechanic.
Thanks man, this is my first project car. The first car I've ever worked on for fun haha.
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  #15  
Old 07-02-2013, 09:09 AM
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see what Mike D has to say about silly-cone here =>
Stretch - What Mike says is true for some silicones. But all silicones are not created equal. Household silicones emit acetic acid (vinegar) as a byproduct - we have all smelled that odour when sealing bathtubs etc.

Other silicone sealants as made for electrical, auto and marine use are different and don't usually produce acetic acid. 3M and Dow Corning have sites that provide good application info. This article describes some of the different generic types (but in the end seems to be selling their acetone cure product):
INTERTRONICS Technical Bulletin - RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealants: A Brief Introduction to Acetone Cure

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