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Old 09-18-2017, 06:21 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 35
W 124 rear subframe mount rot

1992 300e Rt Rear subframe section on body rusted away. Any pre fab chunks available?

My son fabricated his (91 300TD) and mig welded it in . I'm way older and get tired easily-:-) any one out there make weld in sections ?
92 300e 205 k miles decent -wife's ride
91 300 TE many upgrades and very clean-Junk yard rescue ( son's "hot rod")
68 250 s Low rust great shape
91 300e 236k ( rear ended and sheared metal subframe mounts /sway bar )
85 300TD 310k

Below have moved on
77 300d 36k miles one elderly owner! Now in Ca fully restored
79 300 sd 49k miles( time capsule clean )sold and still in ohio
66 230s new at factory "das boot" gone.
93 190e 2.6 crunched-hard no injuries
69 220d rusted away
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Old 07-21-2018, 06:39 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 51
Rear Subframe mount rusted away

Hi Gang, unfortunately I'm in the same boat as Matt.
I was going to have my Indy R&R the rear wheel bearing but he called with the bad news, Now I need to find someone to fix it. I have had 5 surgeries on my left knee incl 4 total knee replacements so laying down and getting back up is getting questionable. Plus I'd rather not risk damaging my knee.

So, the shop put a pry bar where the rear sub-frame attaches to the body and it is obviously disconnected. Any suggestions? There are some shops here that would do the work but I have visions of them needing to disassy the whole back half of the car. I hope I'm wrong and MB or some bright entrepreneur has a repair kit that will allow me to keep this wonderful car. The engine and trans are strong as well as the body and the interior so I'd like to keep it. Seems like some kind of sandwich panel could be welded or bolted in. Or even riveted - after all they used to put airplanes together with rivets. (not pop rivets)

Anyone know how dangerous it would be to keep driving it like it is? After all I don't go around corners on 2 wheels anymore ? ;-)

Thanks ya'll,
91 300D 2.5T
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Old 07-22-2018, 05:39 AM
optimusprime's Avatar
Trevor Hadlington
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Worcestershire in England
Posts: 1,206
Sorry to hear this lads .We have 2 members in the uk forum with the same problem .And i am looking for someone to do the same repairs to the subfram mountings for them .Not an easy job as the subframe needs removing to get in to weld the sections in. looked at the one sub frome and it was coverd with underseal from Mercedes ,it was so hard and brittle and looked a lot like fibreglass . It had split over time to let the damp and water get inside to rot away out of sight. Good luck and hope you both get this sorted out asap .
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Old 08-28-2018, 08:56 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 669
l_turn9....where are you located? I have a guy in Ohio. I'm guessing since Matt Laube posted this in 2017 he's probably got his car fixed.
'89 260e (212K Mi.), '92 400e (208K Mi.), '92 400e (not a misprint) (146K Mi.), '95 C220, '81 240D--Sold
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Old 08-30-2018, 02:25 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 51
Smile re: W 124 rear subframe mount rot

Hey, I'm in Va. near Richmond, FYI, my plan is to replace the bad wheel bearing and drive it as long as I can.. But I'm open to suggestions ... ;-)

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Old 08-31-2018, 06:20 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,148
Removing a rear sub frame isn't a big deal. In general, rear drive shaft disc, brake lines ( maybe just lift calipers from hub ) , parking cables , rear sway bar links ? , ABS wires , upper shock bolts , 4 mounting bolts and it's out.

Fixing the body is more involved, I would not be driving it with one broken and probably another ready to break.

If a tornado was coming, needed to make it drive and didn't care much about keeping the car long term. I'd take some 0.060" ish thick sheet metal that extends beyond the rusted area and place it between the sub frame bushing and body. Next take the same type of material and place inside the car. Drill through the whole mess and put a long bolt / all thread through everything.

You may need to use washers to get the stack up proper / take up space and some 3/16" rivets or 1/4" bolts could help support things.

Be aware that most all thread is grade 2 so it will be very soft. You really need grade 5 or higher to make this " work " . This is a real hack and not a proper fix.
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