I plan to change my speakers and amplifier to a higher quality system incuding subwoofer.

I want to keep the orignal head unit and CD changer which are OEM from Alpine. Also, I want it completely stealth unless you look in the trunk.

Has anyone successfully done this with a W210?

Specifically, I need connecting information from the head unit to my new amps. (Wiring scheme) I have been told by someone on another forum that the outputs on the head unit are pre-outs or line level. Therefor, I will need to run converters into RCAs from the HU to the trunk where the amps will be.

I would take it to a shop, but everywhere I go has an 18 year old "tech" that typically does not work on anything but Accords and Civics.

Thanks

Mattk,
I don't know where you live. If it's anywhere on the east coast (USA), you might want to try a chain called "Tweeters".They have certified installers who know how to work on high end cars such as MB, BMW, etc.

I have personally had good luck with them working on my 93'300 SL, where I have had an Alpine Head Unit, CD changer, and DVD player installed.

I plan on replacing the speakers, with new units in the doors and dash, and adding a Sub-Woofer over the next six months.

Good Luck.

Tony

Matt,

I am having the same issue. The Bose system is lacking in many ways. I have been looking to change out the amp and add a subwoofer, too. The speakers are an afterthought, but will likely have to go, as well.

I have contacted Rod Birch at Car Audio Innovations (http://www.caraudioinnovations.com) in Sacramento, CA. He has a good reputation among Porsche owners, and specialized in Porsche for many years, but has recently opened up a store to all types of installations.

He is going to get back to me with whatever information he can come up with to do what you are describing, which is what i am looking for: stealth look, stock head, more power, best price/performance.

When i find out anything, i'll reply.

Porche,

Searched high and low, but in the end, I did it myself.

Kept orignal head until and aftermarket Alpine CD changer.
Tapped into the factory wiring near the head unit. Used a high level-to-low-level adapter. Then ran RCAs to the trunk. In the trunk, I now have a 12" sub, amp and cap. Obtained speaker adapters from MB quart in germany so I could change the front door BOSE speakers without having to do any adaptation, cutting or anything.

Result is completely stealth in the main cabin. The trunk has some obvious changes but the sub is in a custom fiberglass enclosure that replaced the driver side trunk liner. Carpet doesn't match but I will be working on that. Sound is greatly improved with very low bass enhancement and more detailed mids and highs.

When I sell the car, I can pull everything out and plug the BOSE back in. As I said, I did not cut one wire, cut any metal or plastic or alter the original vehicle.

Matt,

I'd be interested to see pictures of your changes if you have them.

Thanks.

If I could figure out a place to post them, I would. Will work on it and post my reply here.

Porche,

I finally found a web site that would let me create a "sort-of" web page to explain my install. Take a look and let me know if you have any questions.

http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?SID=GAT80WMMLE4rRQsyQg__&page_id=133487&make_type_query=make=Mercedes-Benz&model_brand_query=model=all_models&tree=Mercedes-Benz%20(all%20models)

Matt

Matt,

Thanks for the tour! It looks pretty good. I'll have to find out what kind of scenario i can throw into my wagon to get the subwoofers and amp changed out.. but you have some good ideas that will definately assist me.

Thanks.

I don't know much about sound systems and started doing my homework.
One thought I have is to replace the Bose amp (on a '97 E420) with a sony xplod 405 EQX (for example). Those amps seem to allow the sound to be equalized and tinkered with and also appear to support 2 or 4 ohms. Hopefully the sound could be made fuller . . . But the problem might be with the speakers.
This would seem to allow a staged upgrade. First amp, then possible speaker, and finally a subwoofer.
Any thoughts?

Let me tell you why that is not the greatest idea. I changed my system out after extensive research and extensive listening tests. Many of the brands you have probably never heard of (Focal, Image Dynamics, Audio Control, RF, etc) but I can tell you that for about $800, my system sounds as good as any I have heard.

First, Bose is an overhyped marketing company aimed to make people think they have good sound quality. Thier home speakers are poorly made and sound terrible and their car stuff is just as bad. Evidence by the build quality of thier components. Ever wonder why they do not allow side-by-side comparisons in audio retailers? Because they do not want to be compared.

When I took out my bose speakers, the cone was made of very thin paper and the surrounds on the speakers were kind of a rubberized material that puckered as I lightly pressed the cone in and out.

High quality speakers have very rigid cones that do not flex and surrounds that are made of foam or other material that flexes uniformly as the cone piston moves in and out. With a flexible cone and poorly designed surround, you introduce significant distortion.

Bose amps are also very low quality, I know because I took it out and looked inside. The components are cheap and circuit boards look like they have no substance.

The problem with switching it out with another and keeping the speakers is that the input voltage for the Bose amp is around 50 mV. Most aftermarket amps want a minimum of 250 mV up to about 6 volts. You would need a line driver to properly feed the amp the correct voltage. Also, the output resistance of the Bose amp is 1-2 ohms which is lower than the standard aftermarket amp of 4 ohms. Many aftermarket amps will be stable down to 1 or 2 ohms but may run hot at this resistance. You aftermarket amp better be very low wattage or you will blow your Bose speakers. Reason: most amps that are rated at 50 wpc @ 4 ohms put out 100 wpc @ 2 ohms and potentially 200 wpc @ 1 ohm. You can see that you may quickly overwhelm the Bose speakers that are in place.

I would suggest new amps and speakers at the same time. It will cost more, but you will get better results.

Also, if you are thinking of Sony amps, I would get the mobile ES series at the least. It is my opinion that Sony is another example of a marketing machine. Really, there are better brands available out there for maybe a little more or less money. I have learned over the years that you get what you pay for in home or mobile audio. If the Sony amp seems low priced, it is probably low quality. Check out elitecaraudio.com and ask questions about your equipment before you buy. Stay away from Best Buy and Circuit City and go to someone that knows what they are talking about so you can demo.

You drive the best car, don't buy second, third or fourth best audio equipment. If you are trying to save a buck, keep the Bose system. At least it was tuned for your car.

Thanks for putting up with my rant and good luck.

thank you.
Let me understand what you did. You added a subwoofer in the trunk and replaced the front speakers with component focals. Those speakers are powered by an amp linked to the Head unit.
Are you still using the rear deck speakers and rear door speaker while those run through the Bose amp?

Technically, the rear door speakers and rear deck speakers are still powered by the Bose amp.

I left them hooked up in case someone is in the back seat and wants to hear music.

95% of the time, the fader is set all the way front so I do not have to hear the rear door speakers. The rear deck speakers add a little mid-bass fill.

I prewired the rear doors with speaker wire from the trunk. I also ran a second set of RCAs from the head unit to the trunk. If I decide that I am using the rear speakers more than expected, I will add a little 50wpc amp and some Focal 5 1/4" co-axs. Or, I will add a mono sub amp and use my 75 wpc x 4 for my doors (I think that would be overkill for the rear). Everything is ready to plug and play.