If you have a Becker 1492 radio and are ready to replace it with an aftermarket unit and do not want to cut the Mercedes harness, please read this. I have been learning from this forum for several years now and it's time to give back!!

How can you tell which Becker you have? Remove the radio (reference removal tools below) and the model is on the right side of the radio body. Or just google 'Becker 1492' images.

First, information about replacing the 1492 is out there, but it is fragmented at best. Also, none of the wire color that I found exactly matched my harness so we will approach this from the view of the connecter instead. I suspect that the 1492 was installed in multiple Mercedes models and that the wire harness colors change between models and/or chassis. Therefore I'm hoping we can say that the connectors of the 1492 do not change and whatever color wire is used does not matter so much.

I did this on my 1995 E300D and there were 4 connections to my 1492.

1. Antenna
2. Code lock ground strap - make sure you know the code or really do not want the Becker before proceeding
3. Top Amphenol connector 5 x 2 (AMP 963 690 1)
4. Bottom Amphenol connector 4 x 4 (AMP 983 859 1)

Here's what I did:

You'll want to pickup a set of the Becker radio removal tools. Easy to find on ebay (could not find them on Peach Parts). The tools fit into the 2 narrow horizontal slits at the bottom corners. Pull the radio out and disconnect.

1. Antenna: Scosche model UAA universal antenna adapter - the connector labeled 'VW' fits. $9 at Walmart. I cut off all of the other adapters and taped off the ends. You may be able to find a single adapter.
2. Ground strap: There is one connector that has a tab on it. When you remove the radio, the tab should cause the ground strap to pull off. If you want to use the Becker again, you'll need to know the security code for the radio.
3. Top 5 x 2 connector: Not sure what it does, but none of the connections are needed for most aftermarket units.
4. Bottom AMP connector: This is the main connector you will need to adapt to your aftermarket unit's harness.

Unfortunetely I have struck out trying to locate a male connector for the AMP 983 859 1. I checked with Becker, the tyco/amphenol site, Schosche, PIE.net, Metra, etc. If someone has found one, please post where and what you found. Thanks!

OK, first you want to get at least a dozen 0.250 male wire disconnects (see picture below). Look at the back of the 1492 and look at the width of the connector you are going to duplicate. They are about 3-4 mm wide so you'll need to trim about 1 mm off the width (see the before and after pictures below). These need to fit into the AMP connector.


Next you want to get the orientation of the AMP connector correct. Please reference the above sketch/picture. With the locking tabs on the right, look closely at the front of the connecter and you will see the little numbers for each connection upside down. I am calling the bottom row 'A' and the top row 'B'.

Crimp the modified male wire disconnects onto the aftermarket head units wire harness for the connections listed below. Refer to the below list for the pin out.

Pin Function
A1 Unknown
A2 Empty
A3 Unknown
A4 12V-constant
A5 Antenna
A6 Unknown
A7 12-switched
A8 Ground

B1 (+) Right Rear
B2 (-) Right Rear
B3 (+) Right Front
B4 (-) Right Front
B5 (+) Left Front
B6 (-) Left Front
B7 (+) Left Rear
B8 (-) Left Rear

Here are some pics of the wire disconnects installed



Make sure you wrap the connector with some electrical tape to prevent the wire disconnects from being pulled out.



Here's a picture of my final install. I like the Sony MEXBT3800 for it's bluetooth, remote mic and aux input. Sounds great!



I hope this helps someone.

__________________
Best Regards,
Jeff L

1984 300SD 247K+ miles - single tank w/ heat exchanger to run WVO - sold
1997 Ford F350 7.3L International turbo diesel crew cab with 100 gal transfer tank to hold B100
1995 E300D 245K+ miles running BioDiesel - my daily driver

Live Long and Prosper