Installed a 143A alternator in my W124 (86-95E-class) - with photos - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JamesDean · #61 11-23-2012, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

You'll have to swap the pulley for sure, as the offset and diameter are different.

You can't tell if you need to re-clock until you compare the back of your 143A unit with the existing alternator & brackets. The new alternator doesn't need to have the terminals in the exact same location, they can be slightly different; as long as no brackets or pipes interfere with the wiring, AND the wiring is long enough to connect. Don't forget to replace the tiny stock B+ wires with larger cable similar to what is shown in my photos.

Hrm. I put a 143 on my m103 a few years ago. I forgot how expensive 0 gauge wire is! $4/foot! Or I could get Copper Clad Aluminum..at $1.90/foot. DECISIONS!

gsxr · #62 11-26-2012, 10:59 AM

That reminds me: As discussed reecntly in the other alternator upgrade thread, 0-gauge wire is overkill, and twin 4-ga wires is also overkill. It doesn't hurt (assuming you have proper connectors, which can be a hassle) but it's not required. I would use a single 4ga cable for the main B+ wire from alternator to the distribution block and/or battery.

Also, make sure you use "car-audio" style power cable which is finely stranded and very flexible. Avoid "battery cable" which has fewer strands and is much stiffer. The stiff wire is not only more difficult to work with, it's not designed to go between a fixed point (chassis) and a moving object (the engine, which moves around slightly).

JamesDean · #63 11-26-2012, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

That reminds me: As discussed reecntly in the other alternator upgrade thread, 0-gauge wire is overkill, and twin 4-ga wires is also overkill. It doesn't hurt (assuming you have proper connectors, which can be a hassle) but it's not required. I would use a single 4ga cable for the main B+ wire from alternator to the distribution block and/or battery.

Also, make sure you use "car-audio" style power cable which is finely stranded and very flexible. Avoid "battery cable" which has fewer strands and is much stiffer. The stiff wire is not only more difficult to work with, it's not designed to go between a fixed point (chassis) and a moving object (the engine, which moves around slightly).

I went the overkill route. I ended up getting like 8 feet of 0 gauge cooper clad aluminum wire. It was rated at 250A at 20 feet. I figured at 8 or less feet it would be fine. I had a set of set-screw 0-gauge ring terminals from the 190's install project that I am going to use. Saved me from buying new ones! Only was $15 for the 0-gauge CCA wire.

Looks pretty flexible to me:

Amazon.com: KnuKonceptz KCA Kable 0 Gauge Power Wire Red: Car Electronics

JamesDean · #64 12-01-2012, 07:53 PM

Yay, done!

I took the alternator down to Advance today to have them test it and apparently their testing machine is ****ty. I went down to Autozone and it tested out fine!

Got it all installed. It was pretty easy actually. The 602's belt tensioner release thing is really easy to use and nice!

I had to swap pulleys and I did reclock the alternator. I had to take off the plastic backing and remove the voltage regulator to put the rotor back inside the stator. Pretty easy.

The CCA wire was really nice to work with, it was super flexible!

All said and done, putting down 14.6V at idle.

Here are some pics:

JamesDean · #65 12-02-2012, 09:54 PM

So I ran into a snag with the alternator. It seems at idle rpm it doesnt really output much voltage. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesnt. It seems pretty inconsistent.

When I load it down with the headlights I get a 1/2 volt drop, the rear defroster and blower down a bit more.

I am curious if the voltage regulator is in need of replacement. When I was reclocking, I took a lot at it and the brushes were nice and long...

Does that sound like VR issues?

gsxr · #66 12-03-2012, 07:04 PM

What voltage are you reading with the engine running, with & without load? And have you verified your volt meter is accurate?

JamesDean · #67 12-04-2012, 05:34 PM

Sorry meant to reply to this with meaningful measurements but on my way to work today the regulator/alternator quit fully. I drove about 100 miles on pure battery. Lets just say, it was not pleasant at all on the return trip.

Nothing likes to run well at 10V.
The glow plug relay was confused at 9V and decided to join the party
System voltage dropped to 6V and the climate control decided to leave the blower on and not much else worked beyond that.

More fun was the rain and darkness. When I got home I was pleasantly surprised to see my lights still giving off light. At least I was visible on the road still.

I've ordered a new regulator. I'm mildly certain that I damaged the brushes on the existing one when I clocked the alternator. OH well. The 190 is put back into service for a few days.

TnBob · #68 12-04-2012, 09:45 PM

Kinda sounds like your glow plug relay is not timing out.

JamesDean · #69 12-05-2012, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TnBob

Kinda sounds like your glow plug relay is not timing out.

It was working well before the alternator swap and even after it wasn't until battery voltage dropped down to like 8-9V did anything odd start to happen. I pulled into my driveway in the pouring rain with 5.75 volts left in the bat.

EDIT: Found the problem. Rotor crashed into stator due to housing bolts missing! Either I forgot to put two of them in..or didnt tq them all down..or they plain fell off!

Jeremy5848 · #70 03-28-2013, 12:52 PM

I just installed a 150 Amp alternator in my 1995 E300 (W124, OM606NA), replacing a 115 Amp alternator installed last year, replacing the OEM 90 Amp alternator. The 150 Amp unit was one of several offered for sale on eBay in early 2013, apparently scratch-and-dent specials, and originally designed for ML-class Mercedes in the 1999-2002 era.

The 90 Amp alternator should be very similar to the 75 Amp unit that came standard in early 124s and 201s (all engines with serpentine belts). It looks like there's enough room on most engines for the larger alternators. Remember to swap pulleys and upgrade wiring.

I don't have a bunch of extra loads in the car but it's nice to see how well the big alternator charges, even during afterglow. With everything in the car turned on, the system voltage stays above 14 Volts even at idle. The "fear factor" of the big alternator should keep the battery charged even without running the engine!

The new alternator is a tight fit on the 606 engine because of the nearby pipes bringing coolant to the oil pan-mounted heat exchanger. (The same engine in the 1996-97 W210 chassis puts the heat exchanger on the other side.) There is only 1/4 inch space between the pipes and the alternator but it's enough. I added a second cable to handle the extra current, a length of 8-gauge "Monster"-brand audio power cable rescued from the local auto junkyard.

Following is a comparison of the 90A, 115A, and 150A alternators. This may help someone who has yet to upgrade.

Source and part number
1. 90A 1995 E300, original, M-B #009-154-30-02
2. 115A (from a 1994 E420), M-B #010-154-06-02
3. 150A eBay, $75, new, M-B #010-154-83-02, intended for ML-430 and similar models

Weight
1. 90A 12-1/4 lbs
2. 115A 15-1/2 lbs
3. 150A 16-1/4 lbs

Pulleys
1. 90A Diesel 55 mm
2. 115A E420 44mm
3, 150A ML350 50mm
The pulley on diesel I-6 models is ~1/4" taller than on gasoline V-8 models. I don't know if the difference is due to the configuration of the block or the type of ignition.

Regulators (Bosch)
1. 90A 1-197-311-213 (looks old, made in Great Britain)
2. 115A 1-197-311-242 (looks newer, made in India)
3. 150A 1-197-311-213 (India)

Anyone know the difference, if any, between -213 and -242?

Jeremy

-------------------------------------------------------------

Photos

The 115 and 150 Amp units are similar; the 90 Amp is tiny in comparison. Note that the Diesel pulley is on the 115 Amp alternator in these pictures.

vstech · #71 03-28-2013, 01:06 PM

why change to the larger pulley?

Jeremy5848 · #72 03-28-2013, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

why change to the larger pulley?

The larger pulley is what came on the diesel engine. Why Mercedes did this I do not know; I simply wanted to stick with the pulley that the car came with.

Jeremy

JamesDean · #73 03-28-2013, 02:35 PM

I think the pulley swap is key. Keeping the pulley that was originally on the car seems important. I think I skipped that part on my 190E and I have had a lovely belt chirp ever since

compress ignite · #74 03-28-2013, 05:16 PM

J.D.,

What's that Cooling Hose modification (At the front side of the Surge Tank) you've got there Podna ?

AND,why ?

Thanks

Also, can you provide a Clearer,Zoom shot of the Modification?

(Two things leap to mind: 1.Retrofit of one of the New Ball Bearing equipped Water Cooled Garrett Turbo
2.Some kind of work around for the Damnably Expensive "Tri Pipe" that's just
Down Stream of the Surge tank.)

JamesDean · #75 03-28-2013, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compress ignite

J.D.,

What's that Cooling Hose modification (At the front side of the Surge Tank) you've got there Podna ?

AND,why ?

Thanks

Also, can you provide a Clearer,Zoom shot of the Modification?

(Two things leap to mind: 1.Retrofit of one of the New Ball Bearing equipped Water Cooled Garrett Turbo
2.Some kind of work around for the Damnably Expensive "Tri Pipe" that's just
Down Stream of the Surge tank.)

That little guy is the manual boost controller for my turbo's wastegate. It was a $10 jobbie I got on eBay.

Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962?

I can get better pictures if you'd like