My 91' 190e has the original silver paint. The paint is in pretty bad shape it is oxidized and faded in some spots. There is also some "spiderwebbing" on one door. The car has lived most of its life in Savannah near the ocean and has never been garaged. Is there any product on the market that might help restore the look of the paint before I break down and have it repainted? Thanks always!

Joe,
SEARCH the Shop Forum archives for detailing references. When you do the search be sure to set it to give you ALL messages in the history of the BBS. You should find plenty of good info for your situation there.

In a nutshell: First get a good clay bar (clay magic is good for really bad finishes) and do the car with the clay bar using #34 as the spray-lubricant. you will then need an orbital buffer to apply Meguiar's #9 for a couple going's over. at least 1 or 2 going's over with Meguiar's #7. and finally a coat of Gold Class liquid wax or #26 (both by meguiar's). All of this is after washing and drying the car of course. Use only 100% cotton terry, diaper cloth, applicator pads, etc on the paint. For further details on products, technique, etc see the search topics. If you can't find what you are looking for in the search topic I have my "detailing 101" in a word file....I can email it to you if all else fails.

Hope this helps...Lee

Lee, thanks for the info. I am going to try your recomendation, but was wondering where I can get these products? Are they available in the PartsShop? Thanks always! Joe

joe,
You should be able to pick up all the stuff I mentioned above at your local PepBoys store. (or similar auto-specialty/parts store) At this time PartsShop does not carry detailing supplies. If all else fails click on and through the Meguiar's site/banner and they have nationwide retail dealer contact info.

Hope this helps...Lee

Concerning spiderwebbing, you may have the same issue I have with my 88 300 TE. It has the smoke gold metaflake finish. A knowledgable detailer in Connecticut told me that ultraviolet light from the sun causes spiderwebbing where the clear coat and pigment coat meet. The spiderwebbing is not on top of the clearcoat, but can work it's way up there.

Compounding and polishing does not seem to helo mush, but wiping a good plastic protectant, such as Radax 6244 Speedy Brightner II, masks about 90% of the spiderwebbing and gives the finsih a soft lustre (not as mirror-like as a wax).

Unfortunately, the permanent fix is a new pain job.

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Vic Vicious
'88 300TE, 240k+