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#1
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Window regulator
Hi All,
The window on the passenger side of my 1985 W123 wasn't working, so I took the door panel off and put 12v (10amp) directly on the regulator using my battery charger to check if there was a problem with the power supply. The problem is that when I put the power on, the regulator works for half a second and then stops. When i switch the power off and on again, the same thing happens. Does anybody know why this happens? Thanks! |
#2
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Try it with a battery. I use a 18V battery from my power drill.
__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#3
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Thank you so much! Ill give that a try.
Also, where do i solder exactly the new wires. on the regulator, there are two pins for both the positive and the negative pin. Do i solder it onto the top/larger pun, or the lower, smaller pin? Thanks again! |
#4
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Connect the 12V to the motor. There are only two wires which I know of. Why would you solder anything to them? You are just checking it for operation.
__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#5
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Hi Mike, thanks for your reply.
I need to solder new wires on the motor because the wires snapped real close to the motor, so i couldnt just connect the wire soldered to the motor to a new wire using a wirenut. So using a solder, I heated the tin and took the old wire off, but now I can't remember where the wire exactly connected... (i know, rookie mistake...) Thanks for you help again! |
#6
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Unfortunately I don't know which wire is which, however once you get that figured out, it sounds like you might be drawing too much current due to load on the motor. There's a thermal/current draw overload switch inside the motor housing that might be getting too hot and breaking continuity. On my '85 w123, I have refurbished 3/4 window regulators by removing them, cleaning all the nasty grease off the gears and linkage, and re-greasing them. I also had quite a bit of flex in my regulators, so I ended up flattening them out by clamping them to a 2x12 and flexing the aluminum until it was back to a reasonably flat shape. You might also grease the window rails. I used a combination of silicone spray for the slides and thicker silicone grease for the mechanism.
A simple test to see if the overload switch might be causing the problem is to thump the motor while applying voltage. This rattles the switch and seems to have a fairly decent chance of fixing the problem short-term. You can even just slam the door while holding the switch, if you don't want to remove the door panels. |
#7
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Quote:
thank you so much for this. Ill definitely will give this a try next weekend! |
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