Polycoat or wax - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Peter4 · #1 10-19-2002, 02:44 PM

I just purchased a 1987 300D and am very happy about it! The burgundy paint job on it looks amazing to me, but a guy who cleans and polishes cars for my neighbor (he has a shop and a mobile business), says there's a need to remove oxidation before polishing and waxing. What he wants to do is a machine buff before waxing. He says that using clay would not be appropriate because of the oxidation on my car, and that clays can sometimes stain the finish.

Another detailing place that I called uses clay (I don't know if they plan on machine buffing first) and uses three coats of wax, finishing with a hard carnauba wax.

Lastly, another detailing place that works on prestigious cars uses clay to polish and then applies the trademark Polycoat material, then a coat of wax, and then another coat of Polycoat?

Any thoughts as to what I should do?

Thanks,

Peter4

JCE · #2 10-19-2002, 04:16 PM

A TON of info on this.

The DIY section has an overview of how to detail a car called 'Lee's Detailing FAQs'.

Mike Philips of Meguiar's has posted a number of threads linked at the following thread. Some of these discuss use of poly coats as well as traditional waxes. Which polishing pads to use? . Meguiar's also has a web site with a tool that guides you through surface prep and waxing for your car.

A search for 'Zaino' will give a lot of info on those products.

If you don't have scratches or swirls, you may not need machine polishing - this always removes paint. My 87 300E has never been rotary machine polished. It has been maintained with an orbital buffer, which is much less aggressive than rotary machines. At the Meguiar's clinic I learned that if you have never used a rotary, don't start out with anything you like, as you can burn right through the paint. An orbital won't damage the paint, but won't work real well on scratches. If you do have scratches and lots of swirls, you may need a rotary buffer in the hands of a skilled professional, or done yourself after lots of practice on something that doesn't matter.

Clay takes stuff off the surface, not out of the paint, and I have never heard of it staining paint. Unless it feels smooth as glass, you could benefit from clay. If not used properly with a decent lube it can streak. If used when dirty the dirt sticking to the clay can scratch. A new bar of Clay Magic with lots of Final Inspection spray used as a lubricant WON'T streak.

Oxidation will need to be removed, but may not need a rotary buffer for this - there are a number of products that remove oxidation - check the Meguiars web site or call their 800 number.

Good luck, and enjoy your car!

Peter4 · #3 10-21-2002, 05:38 PM

The actual polycoat referred to in this thread is from a company called PermaPlate. It's a Teflon based product which is touted as an advanced protective shield... it's actually a paint sealer from what I've been able to determine, but it is described as being better than wax, and the detail shop, Dr. Detail, says the protection can last up to a year.

I've done a little research, and have found some pros and some cons with regard to this product. Some people love it, and others claim that it has damaged their paint.

I could also take my car to Steve's Detail in Hollywood, where they lightly machine buff before using clay, and then apply three different layers of wax, ending in a good carnauba wax. What do you guys think?

Peter4

suginami · #4 10-21-2002, 06:18 PM

I would not use the teflon product on my paint.

I'd use Steve's Detailing in Hollywood if I were you.

Peter4 · #5 10-24-2002, 01:43 PM

Suginami:

Have you actually used Steve's Detail in Hollywood, on Sunset near Vine? I'd really like to know your experience.

Thanks for your suggestions, guys.

Peter4

suginami · #6 10-24-2002, 02:13 PM

No, I'm sorry I haven't, but since you mentioned him, and he's in a very upscale area, he sounds like a good bet.

placo1 · #7 10-24-2002, 07:37 PM

Peter,

I just wanted to add to what the other guys have already stated.

Regarding the Teflon coating, it really doesn't last as long as they say. My wifes new honda had this applied (Unfortunately we had no say in this) and after three months the car definitely needed a coat of wax. The paint was rough and dull. Another point about the Teflon coating is that it really doesn't enhance the shine of the car, it just protects it.

Polymers are a great way to get excellent protection and nearly the best shine available. These waxes are blended to give you the best of all worlds. They are also easier to apply and will typically protect your car longer.

Carnuabas are good as well, the only disadvantage is the difficulty applying and removing the wax. You may also find that some Carnauba's have better shine on certain paints.

Clay is definitely not a polishing tool, it is strictly a means of removing surface contamination like tar, tree sap, embedded dirt and other foreign material. If your paint has scratches or swirls a clay bar won't do anything to improve it. A clay should be used after machine buffing to remove any remaining contaminants to leave the paint really smoothe.

If your paint is oxidized (slightly whitish haze on the paint) then buffing may help it. If it's bad then nothing will help except a repaint.

From the sounds of it your car may have some light scratches and swirls which machine buffing will remove. Keep in mind that the car is 15 years old and you really don't know how much paint is on your car. It's really easy to buff right through a thin layer of clear coat especially if the person buffing the car is not experienced. As far as knowing who is good and who isn't, ask them to see a recently buffed car. Look at the trim and the edges/creases of the car. Make sure the trim isn't burned and demformed. Also look to see if the car still has swirl marks or does the finish look nice and smooth. A good flourescent light will show swirls very quickly, so will a nice sunny day (good luck with that!)

Hope this helps and good luck with the new car!