I gave it a try.

I have a 1991 190E 2.6 -- Black 040. It has been a long process of bringing the paint back to great condition after the original owner neglected the exterior for 10 years.

I have a Porter Cable Dual Action buffer. I had also been reading about the new Gold Class Wax.

So, I bought some #2 Fine Cut cleaner (already had the #1 medium cut), some #7 glaze, and the Gold Class wax -- they were out of the #9 swirl remover. I have to order some pads so I'll get some when I order.

I buffed the rougher spots with #1, did the whole car with #2, then did the #7 glaze then the Gold Class Wax.

HOLY COW! I have scarcely seen such a deep, full gloss on any black car, and definitely not yet to this point on mine. LISTEN TO WHAT WE'RE TELLING YOU about this stuff -- it is top notch.

1 question: How long do you leave the #7 on the car? What have you found the optimum time to be for easiest removal? I know it is typically hard to get completely off the car.

I just took delivery of my high speed rotary buffer -- so off to the body shop to try to pick up a dark colored fender or hood so I can practice. Then -- the paint chips will be history. (Paint, sand, buff)

__________________
1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles

Leave the #7 on the car until it dries. Depending on the weather / humidity, it could be several minutes to 10 minutes.

#7 has the highest oil content of any of the Meguiar's polishes, so it is the hardest to remove, but it gives the best results.

It is best to go over the car quickly with a thick nap cotton towel to break it up. It is too hard to completely remove the polish from one panel until going to the next as you would normally remove polish or wax.

#7 is so oily, it never really dries well. It is kind of like the skin that develops on pudding.

After breaking up the continuous film of #7 with the first pass, go over the car a second time with another towel, or even a micro fiber towel at this step. It should remove the rest of the product.

__________________
Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

Thanks. That is kind of what I did. I rubbed it lightly by hand on the first pass, then put a very soft terry cloth bonnet on my Porter Cable and buffed it to a gloss and removed the rest of the #7. That is what made it gloss so deep.

Then, when I put the Gold Class wax on...my, oh, my! Some products are hype, but that Gold Class -- at least on my black MB -- is special.

__________________
1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles

Hi Paul,

Just thought I would chime in here a little (if you don't mind).

After applying and working the #7 into the finish, you can go right to removing it. You don't have to wait for it to dry, and if fact #7 doesn't really dry, it more or less... skins

Other than that... your right on the money...

p.s.

I'll give you a couple of dates for the upcoming Meguiar's clinic early next week.

How's that sound?

Mike

__________________
"Find a product you like and use it often"

Jack Anderson
Paint Instructor for PPG paints

Thanks, Mike. Sounds good.

__________________
Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".