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Minor Lesson Learned - Air Cleaner Bracket
After a few weeks of futzing around, I finally fixed the broken air cleaner bracket in my 83 CD. It was truly a miserable job. In all seriousness, I had less trouble putting in new axles then changing out this piece. The engine vibrates terribly at idle so next stop is a valve adjustment and an engine shock. I think the mounts were done a few years back but they'll be checked too.
Now fo the lesson learned, you do need a swivel joint on the 13 MM socket to get the bottom bolt out. Even with that it was a bit tough. I ended up using an impact wrench swivel and impact 13 MM socket, not the impact wrench itself though. The impact swivel is just a lot more even in how it tramsmits torque. I used the 3/8 drive size. I WD40'd the swivel and worked it around some and it with the socket went on the hard to get at bottom bolt and with that I was able to remove this bolt and get on with the job. Use a lot of patience doing this as rounding off the bolt would be pretty sickening. It went back together OK but all-in-all it was not a satisfying job since it took all day and I'm sure with the shaking motor it just going to break again soon. Does ANYBODY know the real part number for the gasket that is used on the oil feed tube to the turbo, the one you have to take apart to get the bracket in and out? I ordered a pair by part number but the pair, labeled TURBO DRAIN something GASKET were too big, right shape but not the right part. I'll have to call the folks here. Thanks for listening. |
#2
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Hmmm.....I have to do this job soon...mine is rattling free now...
This doesn't make me feel excited to do the job....
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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late. 1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart ![]() 1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart ![]() 1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten) 1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles) 1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org ![]() http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif |
#3
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It gets easier after the first time.
I have done too many to remember.
Just removed, repaired and reinstalled one for mplafleur. Total time two hours, including drive time to and from my house. Start soaking the bolts now, soak them every day for three days, it will help. For those who want a new bracket, mounts and shields. Fastlane: Mount Heat Shield, for buffer at air filter http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1640203 Fastlane: Air Cleaner Bracket, "T" shaped http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1624640 Fastlane: Air Cleaner Buffer. Round Shape. brand: MEISTERSATZ http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=6179880111 Have a great day.
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ Last edited by whunter; 02-14-2011 at 03:07 AM. |
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Quote:
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DJ 84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012 ![]() |
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GRRRRRRRRRRRR.... I have had to repalce the air filter bracket on my 300DT 2 times in the past 25K miles, and now its rattling again!!!!!!
Ive read somewhere that theres a way of replacing the bracket with some sort of mechanism thats more durable.. and im beginning to think that that might be the thing to do this time around. If only I knew what it was, and if it actually worked! What exactly causes the bracket to break? I tend to drive my car a little hard, to keep the diesel soot from staying stagnant. Could driving with a heavy foot make the brakect endure more stress?? Im glad this is the only design flaw with the 617 engine, but there coudlnt be a more annyoing noise than a rattling air filter housing when youre at idle at a light trying to enjoy the weather with the windows and roof open. Not to mention the looks it draws when it sounds like a pop-corn popper & jack-knife is running under the hood! Its like nails scraping a chalkboard!!!!!!!!!! Im SO frustated.....
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Nate 1995 E420 1992 BMW 525i 1984 300D Turbo sold 1993 Volvo 244 sold 1995 Volvo 944T R.I.P! "The details are not details. They make the product." -Charles Eames www.cbs.nu |
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Hello Veloce300DT
Bad engine shocks and or mounts. RE: What exactly causes the bracket to break? Last edited by whunter; 03-18-2007 at 11:01 PM. |
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Just as I posted my post, a lightbulb went off in my head! Engine shocks and mounts! HAHA Im such a dummy. Thanks for the reply.
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Nate 1995 E420 1992 BMW 525i 1984 300D Turbo sold 1993 Volvo 244 sold 1995 Volvo 944T R.I.P! "The details are not details. They make the product." -Charles Eames www.cbs.nu |
#8
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What about the Heat Shields???
Is it necessary that I purchase and use the heat sheilds? I'm not sure where they go in the grand scheme of things.
any help anyone can provide with location and necessity would be greatly appreciated.
__________________
1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late. 1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart ![]() 1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart ![]() 1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten) 1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles) 1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org ![]() http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif |
#9
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Buy the heat shields, they are cheap. Actually you can reuse the ones you have but don't reuse the rubber mounts. Use an impact wrench type swivel on the 13 MM short socket to the lower bolt. Works pretty well. You may have to loosen and move one of the clamps used in the turbocharger plumbing. Not a big deal but be careful not to break it.
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#10
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Yes
you need the heat shields.
It slows the break down of the mounts, due to heat. Last edited by whunter; 03-18-2007 at 11:01 PM. |
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Thanks Guys, maybe that's why I'm having a problem in the first place, mine doesn't have them!!
Appreciate the quick reply.
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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late. 1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart ![]() 1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart ![]() 1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten) 1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles) 1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org ![]() http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif |
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It's also a good idea to get one of your old mounts and cut the threaded bolt part off and use this piece of rubber between the air filter housing and the valve cover to dampen the vibration there.
I did this mod on two different 617s and my brackets lasted a long time. Heat shields are also highly recommended. |
#13
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Here is a hint a dealer mechanic told me about:
Automotive GOOP and a short piece of vacuum hose, split down one side. Attach it to the metal bracket under the vacuum switches for the EGR which is very near the air filter housing. Sure is much quieter since I did this. ![]()
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#14
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Related thread
Related thread link
ShopForum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > DIY Links by Parts Category Air Intake: Air Intake: Last edited by whunter; 10-17-2006 at 08:25 PM. |
#15
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Look UP
I went through this but was lucky PO had put a new bracket in the trunk.
Like a puppy with two peters i fitted the bracket only to have it break within 6 months, then I looked up (not for divine intervention) but at the crecent shaped ding in the hood pad. It seems the bad engine mounts had let the engine twist enough for the aircleaner housing to hit the hood on hard acceleration.
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Silver 1984 300SD, Manual glow plug timer, push the button and count! 1997 GEO tracker 1986 Olds cutlass supreme, soon to have fuel injection Various dodge trucks hope to use the bits to make a good one......oneday. 1951 Ferguson TO30 tractor. |
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