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  #1  
Old 08-28-2004, 10:14 PM
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Front end kits?

Does anybody sell Front End kits for the W123s. I know I can buy what I need individually, but I'd like to be able to older a complete rebuild kit like you can for most older chevys.

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  #2  
Old 08-29-2004, 12:26 PM
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Not that I know of. You will probably have to get it all individually.

I suspect this is because it's farily rare to do it all at once -- normally, it's just one set of components that is bad, not all of it.

Peter
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  #3  
Old 08-29-2004, 01:13 PM
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yea but if your in there it would be better to do it all at once. trust me
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Old 08-29-2004, 02:29 PM
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yes i am in that camp as well.....if your into it, you are more than likely going to be dealing with those other parts....for the relative low cost you can rebuild your whole front end in a weekend....minus the swaybar bushings - i mean you could get it all done in a weekend but the sway bar is fun...just make sure you have the tools ready to start - a good spring compressor is a must. the car comes apart like a lego toy, and goes back together as easy!


jake
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  #5  
Old 08-29-2004, 06:28 PM
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The point is that most of the time, there are only a couple things (or one) wrong, and it's silly to replace perfectly good parts.

I just did both tie rods and drag link on the 300D, because there was play in the drag link and left tie rod. Given that those two were bad, I'd rather error on the side of caution and replace the other tie rod, it's been in there 200,000 plus miles. However, I don't see any need to do ball joints as there is absolutely no indication they are bad, ditto for struts, control arm bushings, and sway bar bushings.

If the whole thing is shaky, sure, replace it all, but it's VERY rare for the track rod bearings to go out, while the bushings are commonly bad on the W123 and W126. Ball joints shouldn't be replaced unless necessary, they often go 300,000 miles or more and are a big PITA. Ditto for control arm bushings -- very uncommon for these to go bad on those chassis.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #6  
Old 08-29-2004, 07:45 PM
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Zen And The Art Of Diesel
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psfred
The point is that most of the time, there are only a couple things (or one) wrong, and it's silly to replace perfectly good parts.

I just did both tie rods and drag link on the 300D, because there was play in the drag link and left tie rod. Given that those two were bad, I'd rather error on the side of caution and replace the other tie rod, it's been in there 200,000 plus miles. However, I don't see any need to do ball joints as there is absolutely no indication they are bad, ditto for struts, control arm bushings, and sway bar bushings.

If the whole thing is shaky, sure, replace it all, but it's VERY rare for the track rod bearings to go out, while the bushings are commonly bad on the W123 and W126. Ball joints shouldn't be replaced unless necessary, they often go 300,000 miles or more and are a big PITA. Ditto for control arm bushings -- very uncommon for these to go bad on those chassis.

Peter
The next owner is going to be cursing you for not just going ahead and doing it all. Or it'll end up owned by some bottem feeder because a "good" owner passes it over due to wear. To each there own as always, but it only makes sense(if not economical) to me to replace all the wear items when you pull apart the suspension and steering on a car, MB or not, with over 200K miles.
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  #7  
Old 08-29-2004, 11:03 PM
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There is a guy on E-Bay that sells front end kits for 115's so he might have them for 123's.

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