|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
One of the better reasons to change your motor mounts (pics)
Here are some pictures. Its pretty self explanatory
*tear* off to get new oil lines at Halsey Import... AND motor mounts. I drove it about 4 miles with this oil leak...watching the oil pressure drop. I heard the inital hiss but figured I missed dodging some crap in the road. I knew the motor mounts were BAD but sheesh. Guess they and the seeping oil likes creeped up on me. THe trusty bug comes back into service :-D Please no slaps on the wrists...yesterday, when this happened, I was coming home from my birthday dinner :-/ Time to get dirty. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Good luck with that mess!
__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
And it was all so spotless just a day ago
*sigh* I plan on upgrading that pump too...probably most the reason that motor mount ate itself. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Yeah, that mount was well and truely squashed. Eliminate the oil dripping on it (power steering fluid?) or the new one will look like that pretty fast.
Bet it idles a lot smoother when you are done, too! Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Aaargh. Oil cooler lines are one of the worst jobs on a 617. (Actually there are a lot of really annoying jobs on a 617... like the starter, and alternator, and motor mounts... I'll stop there.)
BTW, the later OM602/603 turbo engines with oil coolers route the lines in such a way that this cannot happen. One more reason to move up to the newer chassis when funds permit! :p :p Repair tip: Degrease engine first. Pull the old motor mount out. Replace both oil cooler lines (not just one). Then install the new motor mount. Might wanna consider doing the other motor mount too, it's probably shot as well. Having the mount out of the car makes the oil cooler line job a lot easier, IMO... |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Wow what a mess, at least you stopped before you lost all of the oil! I would check that belt to, the heat from cutting into the hose might have messes it up. Also make sure to get the OE oil cooler hoses.
Look at it this way gsxr at least their oil cooler lines don't cost $351!. Not to mention they usually take out the threads on a $256 oil cooler as well.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Eeeek! Are they that much for the 603 cars? Ouch. So far it seems to be a very rare failure, thankfully... I think I've heard of *one*, maybe? On the 617's it's frighteningly common...
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Yep doing all motor mounts, all belts (oily belts don't work good), and both hoses..
I am going to cross my figners as I take the fittings off the cooler... Luckily...my dad is a mechanic so I got a nice plethora of tools to play with and lots of growing up experience to keep me out of too much trouble and that was the primer pump leaking on that motor mount...got that ordered... Probably do my tranny filter why I am down there...its just sad though cause the thing doesn't leak a single drop of ATF anywhere. Got the filter/gasket kit for it. anyone want pictures? if so..I can take some. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Common on northern cars, my crimps down by the cooler rusted threw. However MB did update the hoses, the new ones have aluminum fittings that should not rust or get stuck on the aluminum cooler.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Yeah, but now you are less likely to get rust on your engine block. I have to go and wipe mine down where it's starting because I cleaned it with alcohol. You have a nice, rust protecting mist automatically applied. Seriously, I don't think the job is too bad, just follow gsxr's avvice and degrease it first
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
I plan on minor cleaning in the areas I need to do the work (me and oil get along alright) and then once i Get the car going I will take it down to the pressurewashing place here in town and clean the rest out..
figure it will leave behind enough residue to keep things from rusting but take off enough oil to make the engine all clean again.. btw thanks for the advice I am getting. been crusing the forum doing searches to make sure all goes well |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
As long as we're playing "while you're in there," If you ever planned on setting the IP timing, I'd definitely do it while you have the engine jacked up to replace the mounts. The nut on the back of the IP is much easier to reach at this time, making the job a whole order of magnitude easier. Not that you don't have enough to tie you up for the weekend, but hey, you've got three days...
__________________
Tjohn 82 300 SD 77 450 SL (gone) |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Is it just me or do these cars seem to suck up weekend's well.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Yeah - I try to get most of my tinkering done in fall & winter, when the weather is decent, and while I'm driving my winter beater. Then I can relax and just DRIVE the car in spring & summer! (That's the theory, anyway.)
:p |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Don't get me started with the 6-8 hours I spent with replacing the axle in my Subaru |
Bookmarks |
|
|