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  #271  
Old 02-06-2009, 05:52 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
Tell me you've never opened the hood for something like an oil change and then realized you're out of filters.
Nope, never had that happen in over 6 years of oil changes. In fact, I think we have about 4-5 Fram's available in our inventory right now....and soon I am going to pick up another load from Pep Boys. We usually have way too much of that stuff. I probably have 30 copper crush washers for the drain plugs. I usually throw little stuff like that into every online order.

All I've bought from the dealer in the past year is 6 spark plugs. All of which fouled up in 150 miles, and I tossed. (sigh) I then put the champions that came with the car back in, and its been fine for 1000+ miles....

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #272  
Old 02-06-2009, 05:55 PM
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Location: Woolwich, Maine
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I acknowledge it is nice to have a dealer nearby. I don't always use the dealer either, and use Fastlane quite often - some parts are fine from other sources, especially if they are being sold by an outfit that stands behind them, like Phil and FastLane. Some stuff is just not that simple, and to be honest, unless the cost is a big deal, I will often default to the dealer - for me filters are just not that expensive from the dealer to make an issue of it.

I picked up my filter and ordered a key. As I promised I scanned the box and the top of the filter can so you can see the manufacturer (Mann) and the Mann part number. I also scanned the receipt, folded it to protect the innocent, and included it below. $13.87 is not a bad price for the MB filter. Join MB Club and see what you can wrangle.

Jim
Attached Thumbnails
OIL FILTERS: which one to buy????-mb-om616-617-oil-filter1.jpg   OIL FILTERS: which one to buy????-240d-oil-filter-receipt-02062009.jpg  
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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #273  
Old 02-06-2009, 06:22 PM
pawoSD's Avatar
Dieselsüchtiger
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 15,438
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimSmith View Post
I acknowledge it is nice to have a dealer nearby. I don't always use the dealer either, and use Fastlane quite often - some parts are fine from other sources, especially if they are being sold by an outfit that stands behind them, like Phil and FastLane. Some stuff is just not that simple, and to be honest, unless the cost is a big deal, I will often default to the dealer - for me filters are just not that expensive from the dealer to make an issue of it.

I picked up my filter and ordered a key. As I promised I scanned the box and the top of the filter can so you can see the manufacturer (Mann) and the Mann part number. I also scanned the receipt, folded it to protect the innocent, and included it below. $13.87 is not a bad price for the MB filter. Join MB Club and see what you can wrangle.

Jim
How does your dealer have such awesome prices?!?!?

Our dealer wants $40 per key!!!! Those cons.....
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #274  
Old 02-06-2009, 06:26 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Woolwich, Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
How does your dealer have such awesome prices?!?!?

Our dealer wants $40 per key!!!! Those cons.....
We will see what kind of key I get - I have a feeling I am getting the metal part only as in previous discussions the plastic head part was nearly $30. The key is also for a 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16, which has a different metal blade shape - maybe it is cheaper.

There is another thread out there on this subject. I reuse the old plastic parts if I can, by filling the space inside with JB Weld, clamping it, and then manually grinding the hardened ooze with a Dremel. I can't bring myself to pay $30 for that plastic head. Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #275  
Old 02-07-2009, 11:15 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 38
excuse me for not following the thread but what's the final outcome now? Fram, again? Turkish? Yawn
or just no filter whatsoever since there's nothing to filter out anyway?
(unless you spill sand or something else harder than metal into the filler of course)
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  #276  
Old 02-07-2009, 11:26 PM
Banned
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 203
Quote:
Originally Posted by horsttappert View Post
excuse me for not following the thread but what's the final outcome now? Fram, again? Turkish? Yawn
or just no filter whatsoever since there's nothing to filter out anyway?
(unless you spill sand or something else harder than metal into the filler of course)
What's the final outcome now? Disagreement!
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  #277  
Old 02-08-2009, 12:12 AM
Diesel911's Avatar
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horsttappert View Post
excuse me for not following the thread but what's the final outcome now? Fram, again? Turkish? Yawn
or just no filter whatsoever since there's nothing to filter out anyway?
(unless you spill sand or something else harder than metal into the filler of course)

I guess the outcome is that there is some info available to make a choice from. It is by no means complete info.

Baldwin, Mann and to a partial extent Mahle have responded to some of the Members questions concerning 617 type Filters. WIX has the specs available on their site for most of the filters that they make.

I wish the companies that make the filters would publish the specs so the consumer knows what they are getting.

Though given only passing mention installing a separate By-pass filter in my opinion solves the problem (but some feel the stock filter is enough).
After that it does not matter what type of media is in the bypass section of the stock or other makers filters.

If I did not have a separate By-pass installed I would use the Baldwin p-102 if I could find them. Baldwin at least knows filtration of both ends of their filter.
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  #278  
Old 02-23-2009, 07:01 PM
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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I was at PePBoys and saw a Purolator L43056 filters (for 617 Engines) at $6 each and decided to buy one and see what was inside.(Clearly marked Made In India.)
I have cut open Bosch, Mann, and Mahle filters. The results of opening the Purolator were similar with one major suprize.
The central metal tube not solidly mounted is entirely free floating in the media and rides in grooves in the lower and upper plate (the top of the filter).
Attached Thumbnails
OIL FILTERS: which one to buy????-tube.jpg   OIL FILTERS: which one to buy????-tube2.jpg   OIL FILTERS: which one to buy????-tube3.jpg  
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  #279  
Old 02-23-2009, 11:30 PM
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Woolwich, Maine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimSmith View Post
We will see what kind of key I get - I have a feeling I am getting the metal part only as in previous discussions the plastic head part was nearly $30. The key is also for a 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16, which has a different metal blade shape - maybe it is cheaper.

There is another thread out there on this subject. I reuse the old plastic parts if I can, by filling the space inside with JB Weld, clamping it, and then manually grinding the hardened ooze with a Dremel. I can't bring myself to pay $30 for that plastic head. Jim
Just remembered I was going to describe the key I got - it is the whole key, with the black plastic head. Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
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  #280  
Old 06-06-2009, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
I guess the outcome is that there is some info available to make a choice from. It is by no means complete info.

Baldwin, Mann and to a partial extent Mahle have responded to some of the Members questions concerning 617 type Filters. WIX has the specs available on their site for most of the filters that they make.

I wish the companies that make the filters would publish the specs so the consumer knows what they are getting.

Though given only passing mention installing a separate By-pass filter in my opinion solves the problem (but some feel the stock filter is enough).
After that it does not matter what type of media is in the bypass section of the stock or other makers filters.

If I did not have a separate By-pass installed I would use the Baldwin p-102 if I could find them. Baldwin at least knows filtration of both ends of their filter.
Concerning my continued interest in Oil Filters I bought 2 QSC2930 Quaker State Oil Filters (made in the USA) to see if they were infact the Baldwin P-102 Oil Filters. Filters with Paper Filter Media in both parts of the filter.

While the Quaker State Oil Filters have the Paper Filter Media in both sections of the filter I found out that they appear to be a filter from the same supplier as the FRAM Filter that is no longer made.
When I went to the Quaker State web site I found that the QSC2930 was listed as; deleted, until stocks are used up and the replacement filter is made by a different company.
Here are some pics for comparison.
Attached Thumbnails
OIL FILTERS: which one to buy????-fram.jpg   OIL FILTERS: which one to buy????-zzf.jpg  
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  #281  
Old 06-06-2009, 12:09 PM
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Location: Fort Myers, FL
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If there is no Amsoil EA series filter available, such as for our 603's, then I go with then next best filter ever made, which is Wix.


I live driving distance from the Fram plant and factory store, had friends that used to work there, and NONE of us would ever buy anything that had that name on it. EVER.
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  #282  
Old 06-06-2009, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatman View Post
If there is no Amsoil EA series filter available, such as for our 603's, then I go with then next best filter ever made, which is Wix.


I live driving distance from the Fram plant and factory store, had friends that used to work there, and NONE of us would ever buy anything that had that name on it. EVER.
It depends on your year and engine. For my 84 300D I am not using the 32 Nominal Micron rated WIX when I can use when other filters that also cost less and filter in the 22-27 Micron range.
Why pay more for poorer filtration.
WIX provides Filtration Ratings for most of their filters at the below site.
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/index.asp

Additionaly I harbor no brand loyalty. I managed to snag official Mercedes/Mann filters in their Mercedes numberd boxes for with cost and shipping totaled together for a little over $5. (I also bought 2 of those Quaker State Oil Filters in the previous Post on Ebay.)
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Last edited by Diesel911; 06-06-2009 at 02:24 PM.
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  #283  
Old 06-08-2009, 08:12 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 710
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimSmith View Post
Delivery Valve,

Change oil frequently and hot. Change the filter every time you change the oil. Use decent oil and I recommend you buy your filters from the MB dealership. With that kind of regimen there is no evidence the visually unappealing features of the filter pose a threat to harm your engine.

The filter is a functional device and MB, at least in the 1950's through the 1970's, was a "form follows function" driven organization in a country recovering from a devastating war where the concept of "quality" included low operating costs. MB Diesels owned the taxi cab, ambulance and other utility markets because of their rugged, reliable, nature as well as their low operating costs. I am sure MB could have found a more visually appealing and more expensive material for the by-pass filter media. That, however, would have departed from the "form follows function" mantra. The function is defined as ensuring the oil remains able to provide adequate lubrication to limit friction and remove heat over some prescribed interval.

The very worst consequence of the condition in the photos you posted is the by-pass filter media is by-passed by some, perhaps a large fraction, of the by-pass oil filter flow, if the media in fact remains in the drained and slumped condition shown in the photo while it is "in service" in the filter pod and full of oil. In any case what ever unfiltered oil volume that circumvents the by-pass media still has to go through the main flow filter element before it enters critical parts of the engine.

I don't have any issue with anyone's conclusion the aesthetic impression of the cotton "waste" material in its as new or used condition is that the stuff is unappealing looking. My objection is that the unappealing appearance of the material is being cited, all by itself, as evidence the filter design and manufacturing process is substandard, and based on that conclusion, people who read this thread are being influenced to choose a filter design that has never been sold by MB for this application, and therefore, has likely not been subjected to any MB sanctioned testing to validate its performance in an MB OM616/617 Diesel engine. I, along with others who have contributed to this thread, have pointed out the basic design features of the oil lubrication system on the OM616/617 engines, and how the combination filter is part of the oil lubrication system on those engines. There is also a nearly 40 year history of the filter performing well as these engines do not have a reputation of lower end failures that could be attributed to oil flow deficiencies.

Influencing people to buy a filter with a more visually appealing filtering media that has not been qualified by MB for this application, and one that works on a different set of principles without some technical data to support the presumption it will perform adequately, much less better, is potentially technically misleading and will cost them additional money. I just called and "my" price for a genuine MB badged OM616/617 filter is $14.37 before tax.

But, in the end if you change oil frequently and hot, and change the filter at the same time, today's oils will cover a bunch of filter performance sins - whether they be due to the unappealing media or a prettier but misapplied media. If you are genuinely technically concerned, have your oil tested regularly and establish an oil change interval based on the condition of your oil.

Jim
Jim,

I agree. As long as nothing comes out of the bypass section that would harm the oil pump, the material in the bypass section couldn't make the filtering worse than just the main section.

Actually, cotton waste and twigs should make a very good bypass filter media as long as it is packed tightly. The tighter that it is packed, the better it's nominal rating and for a bypass filter, the nominal rating is what it is really filtering to because of the multiple passes.

So my question is how dense is this visually unappealing material packed in various brands?
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'85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
'83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO
Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980:
'83 Mercedes 240D
'80 Audi 4000D
'83 ISUZU Pup
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  #284  
Old 06-09-2009, 12:14 AM
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[QUOTE=WD8CDH;2219130]Jim,

I agree. As long as nothing comes out of the bypass section that would harm the oil pump, the material in the bypass section couldn't make the filtering worse than just the main section.

Actually, cotton waste and twigs should make a very good bypass filter media as long as it is packed tightly. The tighter that it is packed, the better it's nominal rating and for a bypass filter, the nominal rating is what it is really filtering to because of the multiple passes.

So my question is how dense is this visually unappealing material packed in various brands?[/QUOTE]

Concerning 617.952 filters
The German or Austrian made ones I have taken apart have more cotton that actually looks like cotton and less of the other plant parts and are were packed to the extent that when I pulled some out with a Needle Nose Pliers no loose stuff filled in the hole.

The 2 Bosch filters I have taken apart had the material packed in better but had a little bit larger ratio of non-cotton plant fibers and slightly poorer quality of cotton than the German or Austrian filters. There was no marking any where on the filter itself or the box as to where it was made. The Box said to find where it was made on the product?
I have read that the Bosch Oil Filters may be made in India. If so except for a slight difference in the "stuffing" it is otherwise the same quality as the Euro made filters.
Bosch has never answered me concerning my questions on the Micron Rating of their filter.

The Purolator that I took apart had and extremely poor quality of cotton and the largest amount of non-cotton plant parts so far. Also the Central Supporting tube inside of the filter was totally loose and not sealed on either end (all of the other filters have the tube securely mounted on the bottom end where the 2 filter sections attach).
According to the Email the sent me they claim a 35 Nominal Micron Rating at the Full Flow end. So far this Filter will pass through the larges particles of any of them; next worst is the WIX at 32 Nominal Microns (for 617.952 Engines).

The Filter sold by STP looked exactly the same as the Purolator except that the Made in India was stamped in a different place.

I think another problem is that the companies keep switching who they are buying their filters from and the trend seems to be replace them with inferior products.
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Last edited by Diesel911; 06-09-2009 at 12:19 AM.
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  #285  
Old 12-03-2009, 09:39 PM
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You know, folks could do oil analysis with particle counts. While wear metals and wear rates may vary depending upon use, the filtration particle counts should be based upon the filtration installed.

Can't refute numbers...

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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