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#1
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w126 - all instruments stopped working
I drove about ten miles this morning and noticed that all of the instruments, except the clock, stopped working. The car runs fine and everything else seems to work. I checked the fuses. All okay so I rotated each one. Still no instruments. I also noticed that the big relay was buzzing when I turned on the ignition like a relay was closing all the way. I pulled it out and put it back. Still nothing. I don't believe this relay controls the instruments but maybe I'm wrong. Any suggestions?
Thanks Dave
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1986 300SDL |
#2
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Replace the instrument fuse, it's cracked. Looks OK, but isn't conducting.
I'd replace all the fuses, the rest aren't in any better shape (bet they are all corroded, eh?). Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
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No, actually, I went through all of the fuses a few months ago when I bought the car. In fact, according to the fuse diagram, not all of the instruments are connected through a single fuse.
Thanks Dave
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1986 300SDL |
#4
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Hmm... OVP relay gone bad? Instrument panel ground wire off?
This is a new one for me. My TE had all the instruments fail, but that was a fuse. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#5
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Peter,
Just for fun, I did replace the fuse and no luck. That relay I mentioned in the first post is buzzing away. Guess I'll start with that. Dave
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1986 300SDL |
#6
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![]() Quote:
![]() Now, your second clue is the sudden failure of the instruments. ![]() The only thing all W126 instruments share is the central ground point. ![]() Sad to say this ground point is roughly six inches behind the instrument cluster, and can only be reached by pulling the cluster out. ![]() You will need the special tools and a large batch of patience, to get the cluster out without secondary damage. ![]() I would wager that both issues are the same ground lug. ![]()
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ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#7
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Thanks for the tip! I pulled the panel a few months ago to change the temp display. Maybe I dislodged it slightly at that time. I'll check it tomorrow.
Dave
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1986 300SDL |
#8
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![]() Quote:
![]() The central ground lugs are bolts with hords of Brown wire under them, this is against the engine compartment bulkhead. ![]() Cleaning, testing and repairing in that area is a major PIA for the best of us, there is not enough space for hands, tools or eyes. ![]() This ground lug area is known for corrosion... ![]() |
#9
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possible reason
Dave,
Yet another recommendation. The guages on my SDL would go to 0 when I stepped on the brake pedal. I removed all the relays ( around the fuse box), cleaned the pins, and re-inserted. This seems to have fixed the problem. Note, I pulled a silver relay that is a shade more to the center than the fusebox. It had a 10 amp blade type fuse on the top of it with a plastic cap. The fuse was loose in the metal knotches that held it. This may not help but is quick and easy to try. Good luck. Chuck |
#10
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I have found that when my key switch returns a little too far counter-clockwise, all my instruments go dead. The car still runs though, it's just the instruments.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) ![]() |
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