99 e300td injector pump leak - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

crmont · #16 10-10-2004, 10:28 PM

side shot. Wet shut off valve. What kind of bolts are those?

Rick Miley · #17 10-11-2004, 06:44 AM

Those are Torx bolts, but I forgot what size. Just get youself a Torx bit set with a variety of sizes. You'll need a T40 for the bolts on the intake manifold.

crmont · #18 10-11-2004, 10:19 AM

Rick your a great help. Do you know of an online source for the parts you mentioned?

Rick Miley · #19 10-11-2004, 11:16 AM

Not on-line as in you put in the part numbers, a credit card number and get the parts. But if you'll hit the Fastlane button at the top of the page, find the phone number and call Phil, he'll get all the parts you need. If you're going to buy these parts anywhere but the dealer, please buy them here. Profits from Fastlane sales help support this web site where you get all kinds of advice for free.

By the way, the last time my car saw the dealership was when they quoted $736 just to replace the 6 plastic fuel lines. I told them to leave it alone, and they'll never see me or my E300 again.

crmont · #20 10-12-2004, 10:48 AM

All parts on the way including GP's and the reaming tool. Should be here fri.

sokoloff · #21 10-18-2004, 10:19 AM

You asked about the resistance of the glow plugs. I just tested mine last night. Five were either 0.8 or 0.9 ohms. One was bad, #2 unfortuneately. This was on a slightly warm engine. A cold engine would probably yield a slightly lower number, probably closer to the 0.6 ohms that I see on my 240D..

Len
'99 E300TD 71,500 miles

ciscoholmes · #22 10-19-2004, 10:15 AM

I've had the same problems on both my 95 and 99. In addition to Fuel Shutoff o-rings and fuel line o-rings that had to be replaced, I also had leaks on the high pressure metal lines going from the top of the injector pump to the fuel injectors. The injector valve that fits into the injector pump has a o-ring and copper crush seal that needs replacing once they start to leak. You will also need a special splined socket to remove the injector valves. These parts are hard to identify for the 95, 98 & 99 E300D models with the MB microfish parts diagrams. We had to find the parts on the 602/603 engine diagrams, but they fit the 95, 98 & 99 606 engines. This is a FYI in case others follow this thread to solve their fuel leaking problems.

crmont · #23 10-23-2004, 02:06 PM

I have fixed the fuel leaks at the fuel solenoid switch. I did not pull the intake manifold. It was quite easy to do the repair after removing the washer bottle. When the glow plugs fail I'll have the parts necessary.

I was quite surprised at how much the fuel leak had an impact on the performance of the car. After the repair the car has more power and the engine runs smoother. It also cured the starting problem like Rick Miley said it would.

I didn't realize how much fuel I was loosing until it rained here. I had the familiar rainbow look to the driveway and all down the street.

The skid plate was full of diesel. I used a citrus based engine cleaner on the block and skid plate. It seems to hide the remaining fuel smell pretty well. I've put on fifty miles now and all is good.

I replaced all of the fuel lines, the solenoid and o-ring. I probably could have simply replaced the o-ring but I only wanted to do this once. I'll post more when I get a chance. Thanks to everyone, especially Rick!

Rick Miley · #24 10-23-2004, 02:40 PM

Fabu.

dbear · #25 11-27-2004, 06:58 PM

I drove 400 miles to Oakland a few days ago. The morning after arriving and more importantly 24 hours after the car had been parked, I noticed a 1 ft diameter spot where fuel had obviously been leaking. The fuel begins to "flow" slowly after about 10 seconds from what I believe is the base of the metal injectors nearest the front of the engine. It takes a bit of driving to get it to flow enough that it will drip down and off of the oil pan. (I have since removed the plastic oil pan guard etc.) If I drive the car for 20 minutes and come back it will drip a little off the oil pan.
1. Is this something that needs to be fixed prior to driving the 400 miles back to Long Beach?
2.Is this likely the crush washers that I have heard about?
3. Any advice is much appreciated???
Thanks,
Drew

92497pmu · #26 08-30-2006, 10:06 PM

gotta start this project soon -

Thanks everyone for your info so far... I will try to photo and document this repair for the DIY board as there is no post for this on a W210

Phil

92497pmu · #27 09-14-2006, 08:27 PM

No more leaks...
I replaced the o-ring and copper washers on Monday afternoon.
3 hour project, start to finish... but would probably be faster next time.

(I had some tool issues and memory lapses on the re-installation at the end.)

Suggestions for the next poor fool that needs to do this.
1. Replace all the plastic fuel lines at the same time

2. Carefully loosen all the compression fittings before loosening the retainer clips and torx screws

3. Buy a 14mm combo box/ crescent wrench to sacrifice.
* cut the entire wrench in half
* use a hacksaw or bandsaw to cut a slot in the side of the box end just wide enough to slip over the fuel delivery line (this should make loosening and retightening the compression fittings much easier.
* You shouldn't need to remove intake manifold with this modified tool (I think MB makes a special tool or crows foot for this, but my quick fix worked really well)

Also
1. Get the car on ramps, jack stands or a lift to save your back
2. make sure you have a strong battery, charger or a good set of cables... It's gonna take a lot of cranking to restart.
3. PS... you're going to need lots of kitty litter or speedy dry

Good luck
Phil

crmont · #28 09-14-2006, 09:22 PM

I'm not sure what the tool you are describing actually does. Is it basically a flare nut wrench? Check this thread and check out the picture. I used a 30 point socket and a flatbar with a 1/2" square welded on one end. It came out of one of those cheap serpentine belt wrench kits. Other than that I used a flare nut wrench to loosen the injector lines. It was quite easy.

99 e300td delivery valve seal replacement without removing manifold

ershelby · #29 10-01-2007, 09:37 PM

Hi someone please tell me what kind of tool do you need to used on a fuel injector, i have already unhook the nut on the fuel line. thanks

uberwgn · #30 10-01-2007, 09:55 PM

Crow's foot wrench.