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  #1  
Old 06-07-2012, 01:46 AM
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Best way to clean and polish the brightwork on the W123?

Hi guys,

I getting around to really detailing my 240D, and I'm looking for advice on the best way to clean up the brightwork and rubber, specifically the various door and bumper trims.

The 'belt line' trim, for example, has a mixture of hard water spots and old wax (previous owner, NOT me!), as does the metal part of the trim.

I've tried using Griot's machine polish, but it definitely doesn't take the spots and haze off.

What do you guys find that works?

Thanks,

PE

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  #2  
Old 06-07-2012, 03:12 AM
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I've used many an automotive metal polish to get the bright stuff shiny but the adjacent black plastic usually suffers as a result. I'm now of the opinion that I should mask before polishing - but I haven't built up the momentum to be bothered with that just yet.

I get the feeling that I get less trouble on the plastic if that is cleaned and treated first.

The best way for cleaning up bumpers is to remove them in my opinion - but that's probably more work than most will want to do.

As for scratches on the annodised window trim - as of yet I don't have a solution. I'll be working on a solution on some scrap pieces in the near future though...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #3  
Old 06-07-2012, 08:04 AM
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On the black, Griots rubber prep, let dry, rubber and trim restorer, let dry and finish with long lasting tire dressing.

On the aluminum, pull it off and have it re anodized. Sadly, other than soaking it in some draino polishing and clear coating it's the only option.

For hard water spots on the chrome and metal, paint cleaning clay works great and griots metal cleaner, not the polish but the cleaner in the spray can really makes the chrome shine. Spray it on a microfiber cloth and go to work.
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  #4  
Old 06-07-2012, 08:34 AM
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The bottle I have is blue, but the same stuff.

I bought it at the local Lowe's.

Needs elbow grease and you'll need some sort of conformable block, such as a sponge or pipe insulation, as it's difficult to get to the grooves in the window/door trim.

Follow this up with a wax, as it offers no protection.
Attached Thumbnails
Best way to clean and polish the brightwork on the W123?-screen-shot-2012-06-07-8.21.26-am.jpg   Best way to clean and polish the brightwork on the W123?-screen-shot-2012-06-07-8.32.08-am.png  
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  #5  
Old 06-07-2012, 09:11 AM
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Any black trim pieces on the w123s will come up deep black and looking new with a careful pressure washing. You can put some product on after that, but it looks great without anything.

The black items on my 300TD had years of wax buildup and oxidation. I was using my electric 1700psi pressure washer with a 40˚ tip to clean my car and accidentally got too close to the door handle. I was amazed when it blasted off all the stuff I've spent the past five years trying to "rehydrate".
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Best way to clean and polish the brightwork on the W123?-cleantrim.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 06-07-2012, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
I've used many an automotive metal polish to get the bright stuff shiny but the adjacent black plastic usually suffers as a result. I'm now of the opinion that I should mask before polishing - but I haven't built up the momentum to be bothered with that just yet.

I get the feeling that I get less trouble on the plastic if that is cleaned and treated first.

The best way for cleaning up bumpers is to remove them in my opinion - but that's probably more work than most will want to do.

As for scratches on the annodised window trim - as of yet I don't have a solution. I'll be working on a solution on some scrap pieces in the near future though...
Check this out:
Oxidized Aluminum - YouTube

Oxidized Aluminum Treatments | Aluminum Deoxidizers | New Plastic Bumper Touch Up Paint
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #7  
Old 06-07-2012, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
Any black trim pieces on the w123s will come up deep black and looking new with a careful pressure washing. You can put some product on after that, but it looks great without anything.

The black items on my 300TD had years of wax buildup and oxidation. I was using my electric 1700psi pressure washer with a 40˚ tip to clean my car and accidentally got too close to the door handle. I was amazed when it blasted off all the stuff I've spent the past five years trying to "rehydrate".

Hmmm.....I just happen to have one of those electric power washers! Thanks, Chad, for sharing.
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  #8  
Old 06-07-2012, 09:32 AM
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My Bumper Trim.
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Best way to clean and polish the brightwork on the W123?-photo-1-1.jpg   Best way to clean and polish the brightwork on the W123?-photo-2-1.jpg  
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  #9  
Old 06-07-2012, 12:55 PM
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I scrubbed mine with simple green and a toothbrush, then applied 303 Aeorspace Protectant. Came up like new.

All vinyl, rubber, and plastic gets 303 on everything I own. "SPF40 for your stuff!"
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  #10  
Old 06-07-2012, 03:46 PM
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Wow! Some great suggestions here! Should this be a sticky?

PE
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  #11  
Old 06-07-2012, 04:16 PM
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Thanks Chad
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 06-07-2012, 05:09 PM
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Is it correct that the brightwork on the W123 is anodized aluminum?

Sincerely,

PE
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83 240D - 4 speed manual - Manilla Beige
189K miles, Tachometer mod, cool wooden shift knob from PeachParts, CocoMats, Original factory paint, manual windows, manual sunroof. Starting to add AudioWrap to this car too!
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2012, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PackerEdgerton View Post
Is it correct that the brightwork on the W123 is anodized aluminum?

Sincerely,

PE
Yup.
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #14  
Old 06-07-2012, 05:21 PM
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OK, well I just ordered some of the Aluminum Deoxidizer. We will see how it works. I'll take a few photos.

I am also going to try the power washer trick.

Thanks.

PE
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83 240D - 4 speed manual - Manilla Beige
189K miles, Tachometer mod, cool wooden shift knob from PeachParts, CocoMats, Original factory paint, manual windows, manual sunroof. Starting to add AudioWrap to this car too!
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  #15  
Old 06-07-2012, 05:43 PM
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anyone know of an idea to restore the black hematite finish trim that the later W124s had. Mines faded to a dirty gold.

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