Has anybody used that 'as sold on tv' cold heat solder gun for resoldering the points of the cruise control computer??

I like the idea of this gun since I am not too good with a regular hot iron.

If you are not familiar with it, do a seach for cold heat solder iron.

THX

Denis

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
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1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
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1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

They have a website located at http://www.coldheat.com/

I've been thinking about trying it as it looks pretty versatile. Don't have to plug anything in or brake out the microtorch (hate soldering with that).

That looks pretty cool (no pun intended) if it works as advertised. I think I want of those. I saw an ad for something similar in a Radio Shack junk mail ad, probably the same thing. I have a butane soldering iron, which works surprisingly well except it doesn't work outdoors in the wind very well. This one might just work.

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Palangi

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Not to put too fine a point on it, but is there a particular reason that you think that one of these would be better (for you, and especially for this application) than a conventional soldering iron?

After reading over their stuff, the main selling points for me would only apply in awkward (like under a dashboard) situations, where the cordless convenience and quick heat up/cool down might be handy. Other than that, and especially for any work taking place on the bench, I don't see where it offers any advantages.

I do see some potential disadvantages, and don't particularly care for this:

I personally don't do any super-duper, mil-spec soldering, but even so, that doesn't make me feel all warm and fuzzy. I think I'd rather use a conventional iron. I still regret not picking up a temperature-controlled unit for cheap a while back when the manufacturer was selling some "new old stock".

If you think that your technique with a conventional iron is a problem, I'd recommend trying to improve that first. Read up on it, or better yet, find someone local who can coach you a little bit. Maybe even scrounge up some scrap circuit boards to practice on. You might find that you're doing just fine in no time.

I would never use nore than a 25 watt iron on elctronic work. too much heat lifts tracks and damages components.

I have a dergree in Electronics, and a lot of years in the field. Take my word on it a big ole iron is the worst thing to use.

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I saw the TV ad on it a while back and from that it looks to make soldering very simple. Hold the solder to the joint, touch the joint with the tip for a second and that's it. I think this is why Denis was asking about it. If it works as they showed it, it would make soldering very simple for anyone. Whether it does or not I don't know. I'm interested in it if it works as advertised, mainly for it's portability (I have no problem soldering) and ease of use in cramped/awkward spaces.

soldering wires together is a far , far different thing than working on a PC board with components.

Overheating a component with a big iron is a guarantee for future failure.

PC work should NEVER have more than a 25 watt iron for that reason.

Like I say, I have a Degree in electronics and have worked in a Research and Developement lab, I have done LOTS of soldering, desoldering and lots of repairs. Heat is the enemy of electronic components.

__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Getting some junk circuit boards to learn on is a good idea.

I can dig out the ol' weller soldering iron.

It is just that sometimes for me the iron, plug-cord and constant heat can be a pain.
Depending on moods etc.
Many times I need to just launch into stuff to get things done.
Mostly due to other tasks hovering to accomplish.

Anyway, I did inquire about this product on the HHSCOTT forum
(tube heads) and a couple of responses were that it seemed like a novel idea for spot fixes but most of those guys like the good ol' iron and solder work.

Later in winter I may go buy this for $20 plus the appropriate tip.

It just seemed that spot heating over one hundred points on the cruise control computer would be less cumbersome with something I can pick up and put down without worrying about a constant heat source.
One less variable to deal with.

I respect the electronics folks, perhaps a simple iron will do it.

I'll try to have a go at it with some junk boards later in winter.

Thanks

Denis

__________________
1979 300D 220 K miles
1995 C280 109 K miles
1992 Cadillac Eldorado Touring Coupe 57K miles SOLD
********************
1979 240D 140Kmiles (bought for parents) *SOLD.
SAN FRANCISCO/(*San Diego)
1989 300SE 148 K miles *SOLD

There must be something here that I'm just not getting. The description of operation just doesn't sound any simpler or easier to me than use of a conventional iron. If they're trying to make a big deal out of the time it takes to warm up a regular iron, well, for most applications, it just doesn't matter to me (and it doesn't take that long, anyway).

Although I haven't seen the television ad, it's easy to believe that it makes soldering look simple. I would guess, however, that a similar demonstration with a conventional iron could make that look every bit as simple.

I'm really not trying to be contentious here. I just don't see how this would make soldering dramatically easier for someone who was having trouble with a conventional iron. That's why I suggested seeking a little bit of coaching - sometimes just a little guidance on technique is enough to get someone up and running with something like this. Then practice settles it.

Personally, I'd like to try one for the same reasons you mention, ease of portability and close quarters work. I still don't ever see myself going after a circuit board (especially an old, hard-to-replace one) with one if a conventional iron were available.

I still have a small scar for soldering a wire under a dash years back. Iron slipped out my hand and landed on my left arm. I hate having to solder anything inside of a car, but sometimes it's the only way.