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Old 10-19-2004, 04:07 PM
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Oops!! – Switched to syn

Oops!! – Switched to syn (Amsoil) and ran 12,000 mi. adding about ½ qt. Every 1,000 mi. Changed filters twice during this cycle. Used engine flush, and then, very briefly ran some thin dino through before adding the syn. I run on some pretty dusty roads and just like to change more frequently so I’ve switched back to Delo on a 3-5,000 cycle.
Over the weekend I did the valves, installed the fast GP’s and put in rebuilt injectors (trying to beat what I’m told is a normal diesel rattle – that the nailing I thought I was hearing is supposedly much louder – still bothers me though as it only seems like it’s in one cylinder) and found three cam lobes with rough little lines in them. Service records indicate the cam was replaced with the new hardened cam 45,000 mi. ago, but no mention of the lifters. I have to conclude that some gook got broken loose with the flush and syn, plugged an oil way to the cam (and who knows what else internally) and caused the wear. Even with the groves the cam is bright, and the settings hadn’t changed over the year, but I don’t feel to good about it. Car runs great, so I won’t do anything but check it again in 4-6,000 mi.
Anyway, something to consider when switching to syn.

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Old 10-19-2004, 04:16 PM
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What did the oil tests say? I am assuming you are running it in the 240D the older diesel engines put out a lot more soot then the newer ones. I would not run over 5k miles with getting a sample tested. If you ran 12k miles on the Amsoil without getting it sampled it is very possible you let the soot build up past the 2% limit.
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Old 10-19-2004, 04:36 PM
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Granted- another good reason to just change more often. These gruves had to come from no oil - for at least a short time - not just to much soot. My oil test is two fingers and a paper towel. To that issue - can you get a magnetic drain plug. It's been awhile - how do you magnetise something?
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Old 10-19-2004, 04:42 PM
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Wrap the thing to be magnetized with an insulated wire, the more wraps, the stronger the magnetizing force, so don't use wire with fat insulation if you can avoid it. Then strip both ends of wire and briefly short circuit a car battery with it. Go ahead, try it first with a screwdriver, works pretty good, but I'm not sure how permanent it is. That depends on a lot of other factors
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Old 10-19-2004, 06:26 PM
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You left syn oil in an old 616 for 12k miles without getting the soot load tested? No offense but you probably went over the limit, these engines usually hit the limit around 5k-7k. 12k miles is pushing it for a 603 and probably about right for a highway driven 606.

My 603 would be pushing the soot loading at 7k miles and I do a lot of highway driving. Not many short trips.
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Old 10-20-2004, 01:09 PM
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Well I am ashamed – I am going to get the oil tested a couple of times as I check the cam for wear. I did add 6 qts. over the 12m, so in a way that’s why I justified it. Actually I holed the pan about 2,000 mi. into the cycle, so it got a quick fresh change – you would not believe the roads I drive this car on, which is why I’ve got it. The pan was absolutely clean, and I was impressed. Guess it was clean because I’d managed to move some of the gook back up into the engine with the flush or syn.
If this were just a soot issue I would think that the scouring would have been on all the lobes, but wasn’t. Every time I’ve gotten a new (read older) car I go through this flush routine, but this is the first diesel. You always hear about breaking crude loose trying to clean up an old motor, but it’s never happened to me before, and I’m only speculating that it’s the cause of this. I did this on a w108, but it pumped so much oil (syn) through that I had to go back to my old friend Delo. Even though this is my first diesel, I’ve always used Dello or Rotilla in everything I’ve ever owned other than VW’s and Porsche’s. I’ve heard that Castrol wicks away heat better in an air-cooled. Maybe the urban myth deal.
Anyway this is just something to consider for those that are switching to syn in an older car – it’s supposed to be great at breaking up all the crud.
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Old 10-20-2004, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash9
Granted- another good reason to just change more often. These gruves had to come from no oil - for at least a short time - not just to much soot. My oil test is two fingers and a paper towel. To that issue - can you get a magnetic drain plug. It's been awhile - how do you magnetise something?
Why magnetise it, clean it up real good (drain plug) epoxy a magnet a tad smaller than the flats of the plug. The magnet passes its magnetism through the steel bolt. Won't demagnatise. and of the magnet comes off its outside the motor.

This isn't my idea but one I read about on some site I don't remember.
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Old 10-21-2004, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
You left syn oil in an old 616 for 12k miles without getting the soot load tested? No offense but you probably went over the limit, these engines usually hit the limit around 5k-7k. 12k miles is pushing it for a 603 and probably about right for a highway driven 606.

My 603 would be pushing the soot loading at 7k miles and I do a lot of highway driving. Not many short trips.


Can you elaborate on this soot load you speak of?
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  #9  
Old 10-21-2004, 12:22 PM
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I'm not sure what you mean? Soot is a byproduct of combustion, the way I understand it soot is made up of small abrasive particals. Different engines make more soot, the older diesels like the 616 and 617 for example make a lot more soot then say a 606 or a CDI. But every engine is different and driving habits and conditions affect soot loading. MB says don't go over 2%. If you want to extend your drain intervils get a sample tested at say 5k miles, the report will point out wear metals, additives, soot ect. This way you can tell how far you can extend your drain intervils.

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