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#16
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Never feel bad for asking a question.
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#17
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Also, I had kept the instruction manual for my voltmeter, so I think I know how to use it as an ammeter if I need to. I also drove the car for a while, and then later rechecked each cell of the battery with my $3 hydrometer. One cell tested at 25%, two others at 50%, and the rest were at 75%. So here's my plan: 1) I'll buy a new battery, since cold weather is coming up. I think it's a 1997 battery the more I think about it. 2) I'll use my voltmeter as an ammeter to see if there's any current draw when the engine is off. Perhaps by doing that and pulling a fuse one at a time it will allow me to find any current leaks, if there are any. 3) I'll buy a new Glow Plug Relay, but not install it yet. I'll continue carrying my voltmeter around and try to catch it happening, so that I'll know for sure exactly what the problem is. 4) I'll consider buying new Glow Plugs while I'm at it. With cold weather coming up, I wouldn't want to be stranded out of town (I don't plan on driving the car in the winter after the snow falls, because I don't want to get any salt in it). Thoughts...? Thanks! - Patrick
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1982 240D. 198k, Marine Blue/Blue, 4 Speed, Crank Windows, No Sunroof, No Rust, No Oil Leaks 2001 TDI. 197k, Lagoon Blue/Black, 5 speed, Chip, G60/VR6 |
#18
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No sense putting in new glow plugs until you resolve the problem of the plugs staying on, although it might be prudent to do a quick resistance check of each plug to see if any are totaly burned out. Seems like you know your way around a meter. Do you know how to isolate the plugs for a resistance measurement? If not, we will guide you through it.
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Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#19
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be careful using a Multimeter as an ammeter. Few of them can take more than a few amps. At best you blow a fuse at worst with a cheap meter you render it junk.
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#20
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Here's the deal with the gow plug light on the dash and why your battery is dead. If the light flashes, you either have at least one bad glow plug (perhaps more than one) or a bad relay. More than likely it's a bad plug. If the light stays on, your engine is providing power to the glow plugs and yes it is 80 amps- much more than the alternator can provide, so the battery tries to take up the slack and thus it drains your battery. This is caused by a bad relay most often, but could be ground somewhere in the glow plug wiring. Testing the plugs is not difficult. Go to the junk yard and get another relay, or ask a member that has the resources of a yard to get one for you- check the parts forum. I could find one and ship it to you for less than $30, but there are new sellers and other parts hounds that you can access also. My indie told me all about the glow plug stuff, and the new SD I bought had the light come on while I was driving for a a minute- I pulled over- shut her down and restarted- no light.
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#21
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2) Just check to see what the current draw is with the ammeter before doing anything. As stated by others, make sure that everything is off and the doors are closed prior to the test, because the meter cannot take much current. If the test shows less than 60 ma, you are probably fine. If it shows more than this value, now you can start pulling fuses to see which circuit has the leak. 3) William (MTU Power) can set you up with a decent used one for a fraction of new. 4) You can consider it, but you probably don't need them. Check the resistance of each glow plug with a very sensitive ohmmeter. They should all be below 1 ohm. |
#22
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The bearings in the alternator will make plenty of noise (high pitched howl or squeal) when they go bad.
I'd say you definitely have a bad glow plug relay or a loose connection from the ignition switch (or possibly a bad ignition switch that keeps triggering the glow plug relay) - the glow plugs will drain the battery with the headlights on. shake the relay -- if it rattles, replace it, the contacts have broken and are shorting it out. This happened on the Volvo, I'd just been bragging about how well it ran and how dependable it was when the voltage started to drop coming home from a trip -- first the cruise control dropped out, then the windows got slow, then the headlights started to dim out -- I was looking for a place to pull over while driving as fast as I dared to get to the next town where a buddy lived when I hit a bump and "pop" - - full voltage. Next time I started it, I pulled the plug to the relay, and the headlights brightened up -- plugged it back in, they dimmed even though the relay didn't click. New relay fixed it, to the tune of $175! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#23
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Peter-
need other volvo parts? the yards here are not MB exclusive |
#24
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A good injection pump off a D24T would be VERY nice!
Must be from the turbo model! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#25
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Problem Solved
I wanted to post my resolution to this problem. Perhaps someone in the future will benefit.
The Glow Plug Relay was bad. After replacing it with a new one, I took apart my failed one. It had about half an inch of water in it, which I presume was intermitantly shorting out internal connections. The water probably got in there when I degreased and rinsed the engine on the day I'd bought the car. I also replaced the battery with a Sears Die Hard. This morning it was 14 degrees (F) outside. I'd left my MB parked outside so I could try to start it when very cold. If I'm going to have problems starting my car, I want it to happen in my own driveway in the morning - not at work 40 miles away and after sunset. It started immediatley. I hope this info helps someone. - Patrick PS - my car is in good shape, and I don't intend on driving it after the snow falls. I'm going to take good care of this one!
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1982 240D. 198k, Marine Blue/Blue, 4 Speed, Crank Windows, No Sunroof, No Rust, No Oil Leaks 2001 TDI. 197k, Lagoon Blue/Black, 5 speed, Chip, G60/VR6 |
#26
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Glad you found the problem.
__________________
Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#27
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Patrick,
I'm glad you solved the problem, and probably prevented one for me too. I was planning on rinsing the engine with degreaser this weekend, Now I know to wrap it in palstic before I give the old hose down! Thanks!
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Robert Ayala 1985 300SD (W126) 300K miles |
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