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  #1  
Old 11-18-2004, 02:39 PM
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Removing caliper on W126

Trying to remove the calipers as part of rebuilding the front of my '83 300 SD. Everything I've seen here says you take off the two innermost bolts and presto. I've done that, but the caliper appears to be engaged to the rotor. I can rotate the caliper a half inch or so along with the rotor, but I can't pull it outward from the center. Is there another bolt I must remove or a release somewhere?

I know I got both bolts secureing the caliper to the wheel and not the ones holding the two halves of the caliper together.

Wish the factory manual wasn't so skimpy on the calipers. Guess they figured anyone buying the manual would already be experienced with brakes.

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  #2  
Old 11-18-2004, 02:47 PM
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I've got a 123 body but I imagine it's the same as yours. Once you have those two large bolts off it should come off. If you're sure you have the right bolts off, try using a small pry bar to get it off. It might simply be stuck on there.

Scott

BTW, what part of Richmond are you from?
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  #3  
Old 11-18-2004, 03:04 PM
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Try removing the pads first. Maybe the pads have worn down the rotor and there's a ridge on the circumference holding the pads in place.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL
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  #4  
Old 11-18-2004, 03:09 PM
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Our 83 had some deep grooves on the rotor so I had to use a flat head screw driver as a lever on the pad against the rotor to compress the caliper pistons to the point where I could pull it off of the rotor. Thats what causes it to stick, just pry it off.....worked for me
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  #5  
Old 11-18-2004, 04:16 PM
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Sixto is likely correct with the pads hanging on the lip of the rotor. You will have a hell of a time to pull the pads without the proper puller, if they have been in there that long.

Try and use a prybar to force the pistons back into their bores and provide some additional room for the pads. You only need about 1/16" per side. Then the pads will move outward far enough to clear the lip of the rotor.

I had the same issue with the SDL last month.
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  #6  
Old 11-18-2004, 04:30 PM
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I agree with this as well, pry back the pads and the rotors will come off. If you plan on re-using the bolts, make sure you put some blue loctite on them. The FSM recommends using new bolts though but using loctite works good.
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  #7  
Old 11-18-2004, 04:34 PM
Brandon314159
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I usually just rock my calipers side to side to force the pistons back into the housing and thus give enough space to get the whole shindig off....
However it sounds like you have a 'lip' problem
better go get some reduction surgury
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  #8  
Old 11-18-2004, 05:53 PM
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try opening the bleed valve when pulling and prying on it.
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  #9  
Old 11-18-2004, 07:22 PM
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Yep. Just needed a little persuasion from my biggest screwdriver. I did feel a slight ridge at the edge of the rotor. They were replaced only a little over two years and 15,000 miles ago.

Thanks for the help everyone.
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2004, 10:59 PM
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Are you replacing the calipers and discs? If so whack those suckers with a small sledge. They should pop right off. (my favorite tool)
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  #11  
Old 11-18-2004, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
.... whack those suckers with a small sledge....... (my favorite tool)
What do you think you are working on, a Pherd? This, young man, is a Mercedes-Benz, a fine piece of craftsmanship made by meticulous and dedicated people in Stuttgart. And you are going to use a sledgehammer on it?
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  #12  
Old 11-18-2004, 11:12 PM
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Just a small sledge! A mini one with a 10 in handle! I have found it very usefull in seperating ball joints and convencing stuck bolts to move. A sledghammer can be very useful if used the right way.

I have spent a lot of time under mine whacking a 3ft breaker bar on various stuck bolts. Ahh salt!

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