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  #1  
Old 11-29-2004, 11:48 AM
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Noisy Lifter...what can I do?

Hi,

I have a noisy lifter on my OM603...what can I do to get rid of it other than replacing it.

I have heard that switching to fully synthetic helps, ie 0/40...is this true?

I have also heard that I can get something to flush through the engine which will clear any gunk out which may be causing the lifter to stick...any truth in this and if so what product should I use?

Any other idea's

Cheers

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  #2  
Old 11-29-2004, 12:10 PM
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If your lifter noise is due to internal items sticking due to varnish then trying Rislone according to directions may help...
It has done that for me several times on American engines...
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  #3  
Old 11-29-2004, 12:23 PM
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Do a few changes with Mobil 1 it may take 5k-10k miles to fix it. Stay away from 0w-40, 5w-40 Delvac 1 or 15w-50 work. I have been using Mobil 1 for 7k miles now and it is helping but has not completly silenced the lifters.

Or just replace them, it is not to large of a job.
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  #4  
Old 11-29-2004, 02:23 PM
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I do not think Mobil or others have VARNISH DISSOLVING properties sufficient to warrant using them to try to fix a lifter stuck.... fine to change to it after fixing it... but usually 15 minutes at high idle of the Rislone or Barhdol (sp?).... just added to your present oil ( don't overfill though )... will tell you if it is going to work...
I leave it in my engines like 100 miles and then change oil and filter....

Some cars you only have to take the valve action stuff off ... and you can pull the lifters with a little tool... I have done this....

Funny story... or tragic.... my 1964 Lincoln allowed any EXCEPT THE END LIFTERS to be pulled this way... end one bad ? YOU HAD TO PULL THE HEAD !
Bummer.... I got lucky when one of mine stuck... not outside ones....

How much does changing to Mobil One cost ? and filter would be needed also.. then wait 5-10 K will banging the camshaft ? Not a good idea... sorry..
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  #5  
Old 11-29-2004, 05:48 PM
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I have put 1 or 2 quarts of ATF in with fresh oil at oil change and run that until lifters have quieted down. ATF has detergents that will take care of the varnish. Okay, Flame suit on! I know someone will voiciferously disagree with me on this. But it does work quite well. RT
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  #6  
Old 11-29-2004, 08:47 PM
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Do a search 603's love synthetic oil. Mobil 1 doesn't cost to much I get a 5 quart jug at Walmart for $19.85. So about $50 a change with the filter. Mobil 1 does a great job of cleaning crap out thats why you have to cut your first fill short. My lifters sounded horrible when I had Delo in their, they would never stop ticking. Now most of the ticking is gone but their is still a few ticking. Fixing bad lifters on a 603 is optional they won't bother anything. Figure $20 each X 12 plus another $100 for the timing chain and $50 for various gaskets and stuff.

So this Rislone stuff works well? What about Marvel Mystery oil? My grandfather and all of the old timers around the boat yard swear by that stuff.


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  #7  
Old 11-29-2004, 09:04 PM
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mobil worked wonders with my wife's 190D

Even now it clatters in the morning for a few minutes, but once it goes past 1000 rpm, smooth as silk
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2004, 09:15 PM
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Hatterasguy,
LOL.. by your own words you made MY CASE for me....

"So about $50 a change with the filter."
"Do a few changes with Mobil 1 it may take 5k-10k miles to fix it"

Depending on what you mean by " a few" .... you are suggesting $100 or more and taking 5K - 10 K to resolve it...

Instead of sticking a $6 can of rislone into the engine and driving it 30 minutes ( typically )....

LOLOLOLOLOLOL
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  #9  
Old 11-29-2004, 09:32 PM
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Well I would be running Mobil 1 anyway. My 603 will never see anything else as long as I own it. The standard advice for a 603 owner with sticky lifters is run Mobil 1 for awhile, this has been discused in detail on this forum.

Now how would you do a flush? Right before and oil change drain a little out and add the Rislone?
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  #10  
Old 11-29-2004, 09:40 PM
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If someone used Mobil One and changed it out every 3000 miles I think that would be a good deal... but I can't afford that much for oil changes... so I use Delo400 and change out at 3000.... I just like to PHYSICALLY take the oil and anything that will flow with it out of the crankcase.... I just don't trust them to " hold" or filters to " filter" that much.... but I know if it is in the drain bucket it is not harming the engine..... particularly with Diesels....
Some on this forum have mentioned Seafoam .... which may do the same thing as far as dissolving gunk stuck the insides of the engine... I have two cans but have not used it yet... my experience with Rislone was with American cars.... and I don't have any lifters currently....
I buy my Delo400 by the five gallon pale... I use it in my Ford Tractor also.. so I would change the oil and filter... adding the Rislone at that time... and run it a 100 miles..... Since my cost per change is so much lower I don't have the big decision as to using an extra 7 quarts.... If I was using Mobil One at $50 a change I would have to really think about it.... LOL
At some point after I think the Rislone has had time to do its job I would do a complete oil and filter change... treating it like old tractor owners did when oils added detergents... one had to be really careful because the filter would be clogged FAST the first few times after changing to detergent oil...
Most of you guys have never heard of NON detergent oil you are so young....
However, just for the record.... Kohler air cooled engines are supposed to be broken in by 5 hours of non D oil .. then used D for the rest of their lives...
This is because the most wear happens that first few hours.. and since the engines have no filter or pressure lube.. they want those many and large particles to fall to the bottom and STAY there until drained out.. so they won't cause undue damage and excess wear...

Last edited by leathermang; 11-29-2004 at 09:49 PM.
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  #11  
Old 11-30-2004, 04:32 AM
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Try switching to synthetic oil, if it doesn't help then you will most likely need to replace the lifters as required.

The 601, 602 and 603 engines came with problematic lifters from factory. I've got the bulliten fron 1989 somewhere around here.

I replaced all the lifters in my 602 and I haven't heard them since even with 0w40 mobil 1.
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  #12  
Old 11-30-2004, 08:05 AM
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Everybody mentions Mobil 1 as the magic elixir, but has anybody had similar results with another true synthetic such as Amsoil or Redline. I run Amsoil in my truck and am probably going to switch the SDL over to it at the next change. I haven't heard much about it helping with lifters, so I wondered if there was any pool of experience out there.
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2004, 10:35 AM
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I switched to Mobil 1 two changes ago. I believe some lifter noise is still present and will need to be addressed next Spring. Plans at this point are new lifters, replace the GPs and service all injectors. Since I have some bubbles coming from the rear injector seat area I may have a little more to do . . .

Though I have used ATF on several other engines and Rislone on some, I never was certain if it solved any problems. Marvel Mystery Oil is in my stock of goodies and I use it in all of my older gas engines.
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2004, 11:35 AM
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BrierS I'm doing lifters and timing chain this spring also, synthetic helps but they still make a lot of noise. Their really bad if I let it idle for a few minutes I guess the oil pressure drops off.
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  #15  
Old 11-30-2004, 11:50 AM
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Hatterasguy, Why don't you try the Rislone ?
What I would worry about if I were you is that lifters making noise may mean they or something are not in contact with the cam all the time it should be... thus the item is hitting the cam lobe as it comes around each time...
Where you live spring is a LONG way off.... you may cause harm to other items if you just leave it...
Come on , Follow the directions on the Can.... and see if that helps out until you are able to replace the lifters.... and research to see where the noise is coming from and whether or not that is hurting other things.... like the cam lobe.... which would certainly increase the cost of getting your engine back to proper working order....
I say follow the directions on the can because like the Trans-X it may take two cans initially to be the proper strength depending on the number of quarts your engine holds....... like it did on my wagon transmission... you want it to work.... not to 'win' this discussion with me...

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