Help! I've got the driver side and left passenger door panel partially off, but can't seem to get it all the way off. The door latch (handle) or something is preventing me from removing or moving the panels. I can flex them about 3-4" inchs, but not enough to uncover the vacuum lock mech. I did a search and found the removal of a 126 door panel, but it seems to be different. I can't seem to get the door rest off either... Help! Trying to solve non-locking vacuum problems in my 1980 300sd.

Thanks all!

Les

__________________
1980 300sd - Ivory, Tobacco Interior 130,000 miles
2003 Expedition

Where a calculator on the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1.5 tons. - Popular Mechanics, 1949

Use a small screwdriver to pry out the black plastic behind the interior door latch handle. Behind it, there is a phillips screw that holds the chrome trim to the door, and also the door panel.

There are also three screws holding the armrest on -- one behind the chrome ring a the top (pry back carefully -- 10mm head) and the other two under the armrest on the lower part.

You may also have to pry the trim at the base of the window up and off to remove the panel.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks Peter. I'll give it a try. I was going insane trying to figure it out.

Les

__________________
1980 300sd - Ivory, Tobacco Interior 130,000 miles
2003 Expedition

Where a calculator on the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1.5 tons. - Popular Mechanics, 1949

admanles,

When you get all the hardware and screws out of the door panel, I think you slide the panel upward. If you pull out, you break off some of the clips that hold the panel on.

Its been a long time since I removed a panel, but I think the above to be accurate.

P E H

Les,
If you still have problems, I have a wrecked one in my yard that I could be forceful with until we find out the real technique.

Where are you in Northern Cal? I was born in San Mateo.

Richard in Utah

__________________
Richard

"Die Schadenfreude ist die reinste Freude"

Thanks Richard. I'm in Stockton, so about an hour and a half away from where you were born. Got a cousin that lives there now. Yeah, I'm still having problems. I was able to peel back my front door panel enough to check the vacuum fittings to the lock and they look good. And since it's the door behind it that will not lock, I think my vacuum leak is there. But I can't get the top of the panel out far enough to see a black plastic cap as matter of fact, when reach my hand back all I can feel is smooth masonite board... so darn. Any clues as to what I'm doing wrong?

Thanks!

Les

__________________
1980 300sd - Ivory, Tobacco Interior 130,000 miles
2003 Expedition

Where a calculator on the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1.5 tons. - Popular Mechanics, 1949

I'll check it right now... be back online in a half an hour or so

__________________
Richard

"Die Schadenfreude ist die reinste Freude"

OK, the key to the whole thing is the screw at the very top of the door along the outer edge. That screw releases the trim piece along the side of the window. After that, you take the black plastic piece out of the finger well behind the inside door release and get the screw behind it. That screw and the one that you find by sticking a phillips screwdriver in the hole on the underneath side of the door pull bar allow you to release the pull bar/arm rest. Then take off the chrome trim by the door latch at the outer edge of the door. It has two screws. Then, you can pry the panel loose at the bottom and lift UP the whole panel. You have to go UP... don't pull away or you will destroy the plastic lip that slips over clips at the top of the door along the window. If you don't take off the trim piece along the side of the window, it will force you to pull the panel out, and you will break this plastic lip.

__________________
Richard

"Die Schadenfreude ist die reinste Freude"

http://interior.articles.mbz.org/doors/

Okay, I'm a little slow, but got where that black plastic piece is now. Was looking in the wrong place. Thanks Richard and Oxy... I'll give it a try when I get home. Hopefully I'll have solved my vacuum leaks this weekend.
You guys are great!
Have a great weekend yourselves!

Les

__________________
1980 300sd - Ivory, Tobacco Interior 130,000 miles
2003 Expedition

Where a calculator on the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1.5 tons. - Popular Mechanics, 1949

if you are looking for a leak on the driver's side rear door, you may have to remove that panel, too. you will go through the same steps for removal as the front and in addition, there are two screws located behind the ash tray. pull the ashtray all the way out of the door to locate these.
also on rear door, there's an additional piece of trim for the window, but that's pretty obvious.
if your leak isn't at the master switch it's probably at the actuator in the rear door itself. if the leak were at the switch, none of the doors would be working.
another possibility is a broken line or one that is cracked. the rubber bellows between the door, next to the hinges and the car body gets lots of stress from the door opening and closing and these lines go out quickly.
if the rear actuator is good, and your other doors operate normally, you probably have a leak in a line (open line or lock line) for that particular door.
there is a rubber "y" connector that acts as a "splitter" on the open circuit and also one on the lock circuit.
your leak would probably be behind that "Y" if your other doors operate normally.
if you want to fix it on the cheap until you can order real parts, use rubber aquarium tubing for black connectors and use the tube from a Windex bottle for a vac. line replacement.
also tell us if the door only fails to lock or unlock or both. what are the other doors doing?

YAHOO. Went home for lunch armed with the info you gave me and got the back panel off and changed all 4 diaphrams to the locking mech. Took me all of an hour (I hooked up my Mityvac to the "thingy" and no vacuum to the locking diaphram) Now I have 4 locking doors! Thanks again guys... I still must have a leak somewhere as I'm only able to cycle the locks about 5 or 6 times before running out of steam and the button kind of sticks now going up and down... but thanks to you guys I can now get the door panels off to my hearts content.

Can't thank the forum enough.. hope someday to be able to return the favors.

Les

__________________
1980 300sd - Ivory, Tobacco Interior 130,000 miles
2003 Expedition

Where a calculator on the ENIAC is equipped with 18,000 vacuum tubes and weighs 30 tons, computers in the future may have only 1,000 vacuum tubes and weigh only 1.5 tons. - Popular Mechanics, 1949