Rear Window Seal Project - Suggestions - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

79-240d-project · #1 12-09-2004, 04:24 PM

My rear window seal was leaking pretty good into the trunk. The PO had the rear window replaced about 4 years ago and they used the old seal. They used lots of putty and silicon sealant to attempt to get the old seal to not leak.

I have the window out and have the new seal. I have cleaned up most of the old putty and silicon. I found a couple areas with pits(gouges) but with no rust(see pict.). I have a couple of coats of POR on the areas. I am going to put a coat enamel paint over the POR as well.

The top portion of the window frame has limited putty but it looks like the orange colored material is adhesive used to attach the headliner. I am having a hard time removing it. Should I even attempt to remove it? Does the frame need to be super clean? The putty on the top of the frame has been very tough to remove.

Can anyone think of anything else I should address while the glass is out? Anything to consider about the headliner?

Is installation a DIY or should I just get a pro to do it? I have the (67-200 Removal and installation of back window) from the manual. The directions call for use of MB window sealing compound(PT. # 001 989 31 20) to be used between the glass and rubber frame as well as body and rubber frame. How difficult is it to get the new assembly in around the headliner?

Thanks in advance for any and all input.

gutefahrt · #2 12-09-2004, 04:51 PM

I need to do that job also. What was the secret to remove the liner panels from the roof pillars?

boneheaddoctor · #3 12-09-2004, 05:03 PM

Same here, been needing to do this on my 116 since I got it................

rs899 · #4 12-09-2004, 07:30 PM

I did one of these myself reasonably successfully. I hope you were extremely careful with the aluminum becase if its bent it will never lie flat. I'm not sure about the headliner glue- I suppose if MBZ put it there and it didn't leak for 20 years its OK.

As for using a "professional" - sure - if you can find one who will guarantee he won't break your window. I doubt you'll find one. What incentive does one of those guys have to be careful?

That said, this is a difficult piece. I have done 4 windows in my amateur career and this by far was the scariest. The glass is very thin and pretty curved. Stretching the rubber around the window was frightening. If you do it, I would line up a replacement window in a boneyard before you start. I did not use any MB sealant afterward and it doesn't leak (although it did for a month or two after I replaced it). Good luck.

And Boneheaddoc- stay tuned as I will be doing my W116 in the near future. I already have backup glass I got cheaply from the boneyard.

#5 12-09-2004, 07:30 PM

Not an easy job to replace. I bought a rear window seal and had a local glass shop replace it. They charged me $60 to do the labor.
To do it yourself first grind away the rusted spots and treat them with a rust stop agent. Find at a body shop supply house. If rust is deep enough should be filled with bondo after treatment and sanded out level.
To reinstall the glass, you put the rubber seal around the window and then tuck a string cord into the channel in the rubber, use a little heavy grease to hold it in place Press the window and seal against the channel and start the rubber onto the ridge. Then carefully pull the cord from inside the car to get the lip to slide over and onto the ridge and set into place. If done right it goes fast. Don't know about any seal, the grease usually helps the rubber slide into place and not bind and thus leak.

kip Foss · #6 12-09-2004, 08:40 PM

I have done 3 of these windows. One in a 107 and the front and rear in a 115. A couple of points that may help.

If you are going to get a shop to install the window, and I would recommend it since they have experience handling glass, find out from the local MB dealer who installs their glass. Chances are good that the dealer has a glass shop do it. Ask the shop to go through the steps that they will use to install the glass. There is a sequence to follow and if they don't follow it they can break the glass. Since the glass is not supplied by their shop they don't care if they break it. They will tell you before they start that they will NOT guarentee the installation since the glass is customer supplied.

The steps are; install the rubber seal around the glass. Install the aluminum trim into the groove on the outside face of the seal. Install the entire unit into the car using the rope method described above. If you don't put the trim in first you can not get it in the seal once the window and seal have been installed in the car.

If you are going to install this yourself I highly suggest that you get atleast 2 helpers. When you fit the unit into the car you will nees one person inside to pulol the cord around, 2 people to set the glass onto the frame, and one of those people to push down on the botton of the window to seat it along the botton edge of the body opening.

Since you have already removed the window I assume that you took out the trim. If so be careful with it. It is very soft and you can easily kink it. If the trim is bent you can straighten it with a rubber mallet and by gentally bending it. The easiest thing is try not to bend it in the first place.

I didn't use any adhesive or grease but that doesn't mean that they are not useful. Mine haven't leaked yet but there is still tomorrow.

Since you have the window out use the opportunity to reglue your headliner in the back.

As I remember the B pillar liner on my 107 (the 115 doesn't have them) slides forward to release. They each have two clips that fit into slots in the body.

rs899 mentioned about the window trim 'lying flat'. This trim is curved to match the curve of the window an is not supposed to be flat. You can recurve it if it is bent but don't over work it since it will work harden on you.

Good luck

rs899 · #7 12-09-2004, 09:00 PM

Sorry -poor choice of words on the trim. It should lie flat in its groove in the seal- if you haven't bent it.

I wouldn't be using grease on the seal. Use silicone or dishwashing soap. Grease isn't compatable with rubber- and who wants grease oozing onto the paint ?