I have a problem with my charging system
I followed the first advice and changed the voltage regulator ( the old on had 1/4 of brushes left.. the brushes were worn even)

I put the new one in took a voltage mesurement 13.5volts... drove the panzer home took measurements with all the accesory on and it showed 11.46 volts!!!! closed the accesory and it wass reading 12.50 volts!

My batery light is on..when i press the accelator the light goes off
I have interference in my car radio when i'm the car is accelarating when i reach highway speed the batery light goes off and so does the radio interference

I found the following when i was searching for my alternator problem (quoting JimSmith)
"
Voltage ripple gives you the engine speed noise on the radio in the car and is generally not a good thing for a DC system. When these fail they can start to short so DC current passes through them and it can take a while for them to become a dead short. It can look like the alternator, but it is really not the alternator, per se. A contributing failure mechanism is a voltage spike from a bad regulator that will help burn through the capacitor
"

Do i need a new alternator ??

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2001 Jetta TDI .205 injectors + Upsolute "Fast car"
1983 MB 300 SD "Ze Panzer" SOLD
1997 MB 230 C

Sorin,

Your problem can be associated with the general condition of your battery, the connections made between the alternator/voltage regulator and the battery, the alternator itself (electronic stuff like the diode rectifier, or the voltage regulator or the capacitor filter, or the windings or mechanical), or something outside the charging system. It can be hard to tell if you do not have a means to run real tests.

The dash light coming on is an indication the battery, not the alternator, is supplying power to the system. When you get to higher speeds and the light goes out, it indicates the voltage regulator or alternator is the problem. In my experience it would lead me to remove the voltage regulator and check it out again. However, there might be a short in the little capacitor filter that is bleeding some of the voltage off. You might try your tests with that little item disconnected. If the voltage goes back to over 13.5 Volts, you might check the voltage and current flow between the alternator frame and the tab on the capacitor filter connector. There should be no current flow if you are measuring DC.

It is also feasible a diode in the rectifier is gone. When this happens you essentially miss the contribution of the alternator that was going through that diode. The DC ripple increases as well and should be measureable at idle by someone with the necessary tools and know how. My local alternator repair shop has the capability to both identify the bad diode and replace it. In general, if a diode has failed you should consider a replacement alternator from FastLane. A rebuilt Bosch unit. But be sure you have identiied the culprit first though, as I would hate to prompt you to install a new alternator and find out it was something else. Jim

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Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

Jim

Once again thank you for the patience and the knowledge sharing
I think i found my problem
I took off the the electrical connector located near the voltage regulator and the connector was green corroded and one of the big thick brown wires was loose or off the connector
I will make a trip to my local dealer (i went once and the service was profesional) and will replace the connector
I think it will fix my problem
Is gonna be a pain to replace cause is freaking cold outside -15 C.
no pain no gain!

__________________
___________________________________________
2001 Jetta TDI .205 injectors + Upsolute "Fast car"
1983 MB 300 SD "Ze Panzer" SOLD
1997 MB 230 C

Okay cleaned my wires, repluged everything

Took some mesurements

My batery was dead at 11.80V boosted the car everything started okay

At idle 13.70V ( wich seems excellent better then before)
Only lights ON 12.05 V
Only Rear defrost ON 11.50V
Only heating at max position 11.86V

Everything ON i get pretty low figres 11.46 V


At idle the + on the alternator case and the - on the - batery i get 13.70V
is that okay ?

Is my alternator dead ??
My voltage regulator is brand new

Should i swap baterys and try again ?

__________________
___________________________________________
2001 Jetta TDI .205 injectors + Upsolute "Fast car"
1983 MB 300 SD "Ze Panzer" SOLD
1997 MB 230 C

Had to do that to mine today. The light came on at key on, went out when engine started, came back on dim and intermittently going down the road. Sometimes it would come on brghtly for a second or two when the engine was revved up. Last time(with the very same symptoms) it was dirty/loose connections. Yesterday, the light did not come on at key on - the shaking 616 shook the plug out!...(& I ain't got a damper adjust bolt hanging out the back of the IP).

__________________
Jim

'49 170?(donated to church in Darmstadt '58)
'58 220S(crusher, after '73 fire[San Antonio])
'72 280SE 4.5
'77 240D
'81 300SD
'83 240D parts car