Let me comment on Wolf_walker’s comment up above about diesels being finicky. I have driven trucks for the past 19 years, as well as owning two MB diesels, a 7.3 Ford/Navistar and a VW. Over the years I have noticed the same thing- one day a truck would run like a bear and the next (without even fueling it up) would be a total dog. In my constant hounding to get an answer to this is the diesel fuel is related to paraffin, it reacts to different “atmospheric occurrences” sucked in through the outside air. It was explained to me that the only way to completely control the burning of the fuel, is to control the temperature and humidity of the incoming air to the intake manifold, which is possible, it is by all means improbable for a moving diesel. One technician that I bothered told me that an enclosed generator that is diesel powered runs the same all of the time, it has no “ups or downs.” For some strange reason diesel fuel burns better on a crisp cool day with the temperature just below freezing. Which I find odd because then you have to worry about the fuel gelling, or “waxing” as the old time truckers call it. It has been explained to me over time that since diesel is paraffin, it’s natural state is more candle-like than liquid- if those of you that have ever seen a really frozen fuel like you know it looks just like wax- I know the scariest time I had driving was just after fueling and the temperature being in the negative numbers. Imagine the wind chill driving down the highway at 65 MPH and what temperature that crossover pipe between the saddle tanks is, with all that fresh, warm fuel pushing the colder stuff down into that pipe! That’s when most on the road freeze-ups occur!
Sorry for the long-winded explanation-

Hey,
I was just kidding about the sale ofer, sorry I thought it was obvious.

Wind chill has no effect on liquids in pipes. It only has effect if evaporation can occur.

I thought of that but that's a good one. It wasn't the case though I never use the parking brake.

It's been running great ever since that one time it acted funny. Go figure.

Danny

OK...this has not been covered. When I turn off my 300D and try to start it up with-in 5 minutes it won't start... or if it does, it runs at half speed or less, just like yours did.If I pump the brakes to bleed off some vacuum...the car starts fine. I have a problem in the vacuum switch that cuts the IP off. If the car sits for 30 minutes or more, no problem..starts as normal. I have had this car for 2 years and drive it once or twice a week.

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1983 300SD 343K everyday car
1983 300SD 285K from junk yard-tooks parts from deer car- runs great. Brothers car.
1984 300SD parts car-Hit deer
1979 300D 175K non-turbo "Doctor"
1979 300d parts car

You have a problem with your vacuum shutoff valve on the ignition switch. It is supposed to leak air into the line to the IP shutdown valve when the switch is ON. It appears that yours is not allowing the air in, allowing the vacuum to remain in the shutdown valve when you try to start.

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Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.