My Project, Some questions! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Breckman99 · #1 11-10-2004, 08:41 PM

Hello all, for those who have been here awhile you already know about my restoration project. It’s an 83 300SD W/ 325K on it and I am replacing the entire interior. Right now I have the old stripped out and have some quick questions regarding the climate control systems. I want to replace all the vacuum "pots" while I have the dash off. Where can I buy these new "pots"? Are there any under all the black plastic that I need to get to? Anything else under here I ought to replace so I don't have to go through the dash removal again? I am running quite a few new harnesses (adding on-board computer systems) and I can't believe how expandable these cars are!! There is channel all through the car to run the new wiring in, and the fuse block is even expandable! Its like they knew I was going to be doing this! I am putting the motherboard and hard drives in the trunk in a special case (anti vibration) and installing USB ports, display, and possibly a R/w drive (if I can get it to work efficiently with the Loooong IDE cable to the front W/O interference) in the console where the heat controls were, moving those to where the standard stereo would go. Whoops, it seems I am ranting again - I'll let you all get back to posting.

ONE MORE Q:
Where can I buy new wood for the doors and dash?
and anybody out there have a very good grey center console they want to part with?

boneheaddoctor · #2 11-10-2004, 09:25 PM

Those are called Vacum elements.....and they are availible through our sponser Fastlane at very competitive prices.

#3 11-10-2004, 09:29 PM

Stay away from IDE cables...that long you will have absolutely NOTHING but troubles...too much capacitance...and if you did get it to to work...it would be super slow data rate.
Your best might be SATA or running a USB (maybe have to use a amp for that distance...33feet for USB 1.0 is coming to mind for max length on one cable)
But try USB drive or something of the sort. It won't be fast but it will work.
Curious about this setup...email or PM me with your ideas...might have some useful input/drool over you toys haha

*pokes head back under the hood and out of the computer nerd world*

Breckman99 · #4 11-10-2004, 09:51 PM

Yes yes, that is what I was trying to overcome was the SUPER slow data rate. even with a homemade amp it didn't cut it. I am thinking of scrapping the CD drive now since they are obsolete anyway.... BUT I did have a vision of a wireless network, so when I get near home I can download the latest music "upgrade" to the drive...... not to mention down the road when they get the nation - wide wireless internet going....... And toys? naahhhh this is going to be my car for the next 20 years or so - I can't seem to find any other car like it, might as well build it to be UPGRADABLE - (you find me a new car that you can upgrade the computer, or that even has a computer, is a diesel, and can cruise comfortably at 100 while running on fuel I grow, let me know....)

I did think of another question while I was about - You bio guys - did you run your tank lines / coolant lines under the car? or inside the car. I am drawing for under design. ALSO I plan to run the supply/return for the bio tank INSIDE the coolant hoses. Does sombody out there make a fitting that will let coolant go past. (OK imagine a standard nipple, with a SMAll 90 at the top) I will try to post a crude picture of what I am talking about....

Breckman99 · #5 11-10-2004, 10:00 PM

Here is the picture, sorry for the quality, all I have on this computer is PAINT (bleh) I am sure I can make somthing like this but I would like to find somone who makes them so I don't have to do all the R&D for the damn thing. BTW pic is way off scale. the fuel line is lets say 3mm and the coolant lets say 20mm generally that is, I still have yet to build the tank and all that so it is just a guess.

Breckman99 · #6 11-10-2004, 10:03 PM

Oh yes -

in the picture the RED indicates it is INSIDE the fitting

BenzBoy8 · #7 11-11-2004, 03:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Breckman99

Hello all, for those who have been here awhile you already know about my restoration project. It’s an 83 300SD W/ 325K on it and I am replacing the entire interior. Right now I have the old stripped out and have some quick questions regarding the climate control systems. I want to replace all the vacuum "pots" while I have the dash off. Where can I buy these new "pots"? Are there any under all the black plastic that I need to get to? Anything else under here I ought to replace so I don't have to go through the dash removal again? I am running quite a few new harnesses (adding on-board computer systems) and I can't believe how expandable these cars are!! There is channel all through the car to run the new wiring in, and the fuse block is even expandable! Its like they knew I was going to be doing this!

Hey Brekman can you take some pictures of how it looks. I would love to see the stripped car. thanks

Breckman99 · #8 11-11-2004, 04:49 AM

No my friend - not an additional alt. to the stock system! A second system all together!
And not a boom box on wheels either! Those days are over (look up my "PICTURE OF THE BEAST" post

) all that is gone. I only want to run the door speakers, front speakers, rear deck speakers, and maybe a 8 or 10 inch sub, but probably not even that much.
I am ready for flames because I know how some of you feel about modifying the original.
I see it as one of the best automotive platforms made. In the 165,000 MI I have put on this car, I have seen it get through some very tough situations with ease. I have tried many other cars but I just keep going back to this one. I do not see the point in buying any other car when I can make this one like new for a fraction of the price and go for years to come.
The only thing I will likely purchase in the future is a good diesel van (perhaps the VITO - damn I want to import one of those) to haul my tools around in ect. Speaking of VITO's I need to start a post on that one.....

Oh well, enough babbling for tonight - I guess I did find the "elements"
Those had me worried for awhile there.

I do keep a keen eye out on the E-bay auctions, not to long ago I picked up a BRAND NEW wood piece for the shifter surround, but I really need to find the dash piece around the column and the door pieces before re-assembly!

TwitchKitty · #9 11-11-2004, 05:37 AM

When you get around to the pictures I would be interested in seeing the channel in which you are running the cables from the dash to the trunk.

Also you mentioned growing your own fuel, what exactly are you doing there?

tenknots · #10 11-11-2004, 07:53 AM

Can't run dual alternators? Boats do it all the time. Lots of big sailboats have 2 110 amp alternators. The key is having one alternator's regulator set at a slightly lower voltage. That way one alternator assists the other until the voltage reaches the other's setting, at which point the first one stops charging. If they are both roughly the same, the regulators tend to surge as one senses a voltage fluctuation at a different time from the other. There are no phase problems because the alternator's output has been rectified to DC.

Am I missing something?

Another way is to use an isolator (diode) for one of the alternators - but since the diode drops about .6 volts, you'd need to adjust the regulator for the loss. Or you could have a dedicated battery and alternator just for "house" needs. My boat has an alternator and a wind generator (small alternator), both wired directly to the main battery bank and they get along fine. If you decide on a 2 battery bank system, get a battery switch so you can toggle between them in case one fails. Check marine stores.

Also, a 100 amp alternator produces 1400 watts (14 volts x 100 amps). There are 746 watts in 1 HP so a 100 amp alternator would theoretically require 1400/746 = 1.88. Add energy losses such as drive belt and pulley friction and add a 100% fudge factor to be safe. This means a 100 amp alternator would require 3.76 hp. It's highly unlikely you'd run an alternator at full capacity anyway, so it's probably less.

Good luck with your hi-tech/lo-tech project!

d.delano · #11 11-11-2004, 10:54 AM

'And not a boom box on wheels either! Those days are over... I only want to run the door speakers, front speakers, rear deck speakers, and maybe a 8 or 10 inch sub'

um...ain't that a boom box setup? s'cuse me but I think it is...8 speakers=overkill. good luck.

ghetto yo. ghetto.

whunter · #12 11-11-2004, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Breckman99

No my friend - not an additional alt. to the stock system! A second system all together!
And not a boom box on wheels either! Those days are over (look up my "PICTURE OF THE BEAST" post

) all that is gone. I only want to run the door speakers, front speakers, rear deck speakers, and maybe a 8 or 10 inch sub, but probably not even that much.

The second alternator and total electrical system must be utterly isolated from the car.

If they share ground at any point, one system will go up in smoke.

You will need A/C and power signal filter for the computer.

Breckman99 · #13 11-11-2004, 11:11 PM

Ah, Well last I checked, those speaker locations are all stock, so if it is overkill then MB must have thought not. If you would like to see overkill please see my "picture of the beast" post. That is overkill defined.

of the gutted interior, and pictures of the new goDo not worry though, I will have multiple pictures soon ing in.

Hmmmm, I will just have them, seems I can't explain how they work to photograph the charging systems when I build in words....YES two COMPLETELY seperate systems! But I do not think the grounds must be isolated completely? how would that give more power to one system or another? As long as the positive never crosses systems, there is no way to spike voltage. (ever see a industrial setup? neutral is shared and unswitched, the breakers/fuses are only on the hot side, and that is with AC!) Let me here your thoughts on this one

Breckman99 · #14 11-11-2004, 11:12 PM

and yes Breckenridge is a great place to live!

whunter · #15 11-11-2004, 11:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Breckman99

Hmmmm, I will just have them, seems I can't explain how they work to photograph the charging systems when I build in words....YES two COMPLETELY separate systems! But I do not think the grounds must be isolated completely? How would that give more power to one system or another? As long as the positive never crosses systems, there is no way to spike voltage. (Ever see a industrial setup? neutral is shared and unswitched, the breakers/fuses are only on the hot side, and that is with AC!) Let me here your thoughts on this one?

I have consulted five automotive electrical engineers today, just to be sure of the facts.

If you choose to proceed, they said to warn you, the alternator, starter and preamp will fry, along with much of your electrical system.

The common answer from them; Replace the 80 AMP alternator with a 300 AMP.

Your choice.
It is your car and money.
I have given warning; a fact of science does not change for anyone.