Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-11-2005, 11:08 PM
Phil's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 1,064
Question fuel filter change

Well as of today this weekend is supossed to be my time to work on the car. FINALLY. The first thing is going to be to change the fuel filters for the first time and I need to know the procedure. Do I need to prime the system after the change? If so how do I do this? Any tips on this and the oil filter and oil change would be welcome. Also does this car have lube fittings and if so, were?
Thanks for any help anyone can give me.
1983 300SD and I love it.

__________________
1983 300SD
200000miles
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-11-2005, 11:18 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,371
Thumbs up Answer:

Read the following thread.

300SD Fuel Filter Replacement Instructions
300SD Fuel Filter Replacement Instructions
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1983 300D
1984 190D
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-11-2005, 11:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
Posts: 4,186
Fuel filters, you have two. Small inline clear (primary) just loosen the clamps and stick the new one in, pretty straight forward. The main filter (secondary) is a cannister type. To replace it, loosen the large nut on top with a socket and then just spin it off the rest of the way. Have the new filter handy and put them face to face, flip-er-over and fill the new filter with fuel (saves a lot of pumping). Spin the new one on and then retighten the "nut" on top to seat the filter. If you have the new style priming pump, just pump it till you hear a pressure relief valve in the IP vent. If you have the old style (white knurled top) you will need to unscrew to release the "handle" then pump. Be sure to retighten it when finished.

The oil filter is in the housing near the firewall, round with two nuts holding the top down. Remove the nuts and lift the lid (which has a shaft running through the middle of it) Drop the new filter in, lube and install the large o-ring, and inspect/replace the two small o-rings on the shaft. Also, some drain the oil cooler (I personally do) by loosening the bottom flex line (be sure and double wrench and careful not to crossthread $$) Caution: do not overfill the oil, it is better for it to be a quart low if anything, halfway between the detents on the dipstick.

Most of all, it is a good idea to do both of these while the engine is warm. Oil drains better and much easier to start after changing the fuel filter.

(I learned about the fuel filter years ago on early Ford 6.9 It did not have a priming pump and was next to impossible to start afterwards if cold)

Hope that helps and let us know about your "first time". (Changing MB filters that is!)
__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-12-2005, 10:16 AM
d.delano's Avatar
Dönerkebap
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: DC
Posts: 1,466
Don't forget about the two o-rings on the fuel filter bolt. Like the two small o-rings on the oil filter canister lid stem thingy, they get flat and hard over time. Mine leaked. They weren't rock hard or anything, just flat, which caused me to think they were supposed to be flat. Not so. I got some new ones and now no more leaks.
Changing the fuel filters is cake. Just remove and replace, pump the hand pump 'till you hear a hiss, and it's done. I would perform a purge first though.
Don't use synthetic oil unless you don't mind your car using a little. Mine didn't use a drop until I switched to synthetic. It's nothing to worry about mind you, but still. And use an inverted baggie when you're removing the oil filter so you don't make a mess. Watch your vacuum lines around the oil filter can. That's all I know.
__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-12-2005, 11:03 AM
Phil's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 1,064
purge?

You mentioned Purging the fuel system, any info on this? Boy I love this site but I keep getting side tracked on following threads of other stuff like the one about silicone.
__________________
1983 300SD
200000miles

Last edited by Phil; 01-12-2005 at 11:04 AM. Reason: spelling
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-12-2005, 11:18 AM
d.delano's Avatar
Dönerkebap
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: DC
Posts: 1,466
Do a search on Lubro-Moly Diesel Purge. It cleans the fuel system, sometimes making the car run smoother. It's worth it I think. It will trash your fuel filters so I'd purge the system first then change the filters.
__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-12-2005, 07:17 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: PA
Posts: 5,440
Phil,

Changing the fuel filters is a waste of time and money if the filters pass enough fuel for full engine power.

P E H
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-12-2005, 07:38 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 375
Any tips on this and the oil filter and oil change would be welcome.

One item about oil filter change, I learned this the hard way. The oil filter housing is cast aluminum with two steel pins/srews that hold the cap. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN these, if you do you will pull out those pins.
The large O ring on the cap eliminates the need for excessive tightening.

Vahe
240D/77
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-12-2005, 08:44 PM
84300DT's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Mass.
Posts: 2,219
Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges
Phil,

Changing the fuel filters is a waste of time and money if the filters pass enough fuel for full engine power.

P E H
peh, i know we have discussed this before but how can one tell if the secondary can filter is dirty or not? would it be a matter of time, or mileage, or performance, or?

obviously, the primary clear plastic filter is an easy call to make .. if it's dirty you can see it, and replace it at a very low cost.
__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-13-2005, 12:28 AM
franklyspeaking's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Decatur, Alabama
Posts: 383
For what it's worth, I agree with PEH. Fuel filters have no impact upon performance until they get plugged, and you will feel it when that happens. On my 240D I can sense this plugging when the fuel level gets low; it starts cutting out and loses power. Fuel milage doesn't change. I monitor fuel milage with every fill up and have never seen reduced milage with filter plugs.
__________________
1998 C280
1982 240D Manual - Sold
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-13-2005, 11:33 AM
Phil's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Sonoma County, California
Posts: 1,064
Cool Filters

I originally decided to change all filters because I recently bought this car and have no idea when filters and fluids were last changed. I think its a good idea to have a base starting point. I also don't want to trust what the seller says with out documentation. It's cheep insurance. I havent had time to look but how do you add a picture to your heading on the pages?
1983 300SD
__________________
1983 300SD
200000miles
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-13-2005, 12:23 PM
d.delano's Avatar
Dönerkebap
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: DC
Posts: 1,466
Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges
Phil,

Changing the fuel filters is a waste of time and money if the filters pass enough fuel for full engine power.

P E H
So I guess what you're saying is it's best to wait until the filter plugs up on a rainy night out in the middle of nowhere rather than to replace a filter as a matter of course, and cheap insurance, even when said filter(s) only costs a few bucks and you have no idea when it was last replaced.
I guess if it ain't broke don't fix it right? Phil- just ignore everything. It will fix itself.
__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-13-2005, 01:11 PM
Old300D's Avatar
Biodiesel Fiend
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,883
Quote:
Originally Posted by d.delano
So I guess what you're saying is it's best to wait until the filter plugs up on a rainy night out in the middle of nowhere rather than to replace a filter as a matter of course, and cheap insurance, even when said filter(s) only costs a few bucks and you have no idea when it was last replaced.
I guess if it ain't broke don't fix it right? Phil- just ignore everything. It will fix itself.
Most of the time you will notice the performance dropping off and will have time to change the filter at a time of your choosing. If you run biodiesel you would do well to have a spare filter and tools in the trunk.

I don't think filling the new filter with the old is a very good idea. The fuel coming out of the old filter is unfiltered fuel, you would be pouring potentially contaminated fuel into a new filter bypassing the filter. In other words, you are putting particles straight into the IP.
__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-13-2005, 01:56 PM
d.delano's Avatar
Dönerkebap
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: DC
Posts: 1,466
[QUOTE=Old300D]

I don't think filling the new filter with the old is a very good idea. QUOTE]

what are you talking about? that's not what I said.
__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-13-2005, 02:39 PM
Old300D's Avatar
Biodiesel Fiend
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,883
[QUOTE=d.delano]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old300D

I don't think filling the new filter with the old is a very good idea. QUOTE]

what are you talking about? that's not what I said.
I didnt say you did. My reply to you was in the first paragraph. The second was addressing what SD Blue posted, 2nd post, regarding filling the new filter with the old.

__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88
'01 VW Beetle TDI
'05 Jeep Liberty CRD
'89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T
'78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110
Oil Burner Kartel #35

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:51 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page