Radiator Source - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Dance'w'Diesels · #1 01-25-2005, 11:54 AM

As you all know our German cars are subject to premature radiator failure. If you're still on the original after 100k+ miles it's adviseable to replace. While they are not cheap it's better to be safe than sorry...at the wrong place, wrong time...if you know what I mean.

So I just found a great deal at Radiator.com for a brand new Nissen at $210 with FedEx shipping included. I still have to confirm that all is well after I get it the next day or so... Hope this will be of help to some of you.

Pete Burton · #2 01-25-2005, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dance'w'Diesels

As you all know our German cars are subject to premature radiator failure. If you're still on the original after 100k+ miles it's adviseable to replace. While they are not cheap it's better to be safe than sorry...at the wrong place, wrong time...if you know what I mean.

So I just found a great deal at Radiator.com for a brand new Nissen at $210 with FedEx shipping included. I still have to confirm that all is well after I get it the next day or so... Hope this will be of help to some of you.

that's where I got a Valeo brand that fit my SD perfectly, with a lifetime warranty (supposedly) and free shipping. Cost me $170, which I thought was a really good price. Unfortunately, it took FedEx 3 attempts to ship the radiator to me without breaking it. The amount of shipping abuse they applied was just preposterous.

I'm happy with the radiator, but inspect the radiator EXTREMELY carefully before you install it, keep all shipping material and info until you are absolutely sure it's OK.

Hatterasguy · #3 01-25-2005, 12:34 PM

Plastic radiators seem to be good for 10-12 years, after that they may hold up or may not.

Wow W123 radiators went up big time over the last 18 months. I remember when Behr's were under $250! I don't want to know what the rad for an SDL is up to.

Dance'w'Diesels · #4 01-25-2005, 01:39 PM

Thanks for the heads up Pete! This is something everyone should note.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete Burton

that's where I got a Valeo brand that fit my SD perfectly, with a lifetime warranty (supposedly) and free shipping. Cost me $170, which I thought was a really good price. Unfortunately, it took FedEx 3 attempts to ship the radiator to me without breaking it. The amount of shipping abuse they applied was just preposterous.

I'm happy with the radiator, but inspect the radiator EXTREMELY carefully before you install it, keep all shipping material and info until you are absolutely sure it's OK.

Dance'w'Diesels · #5 01-25-2005, 01:41 PM

Then mine is some 10 years over due

Yep these items without discounts are listed at $520.00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

Plastic radiators seem to be good for 10-12 years, after that they may hold up or may not.

Wow W123 radiators went up big time over the last 18 months. I remember when Behr's were under $250! I don't want to know what the rad for an SDL is up to.

gsxr · #6 01-25-2005, 02:48 PM

I would not recommend the Nissens. The Behr should not be much more expensive (last I saw, $275 vs $225). The Nissens does not have the metal sleeves in the plastic necks. And on the 1987 300D/TD, the Nissens requires cutting some of the plastic tank to fit. The performance should be OK though. If the price gap was wider (say, $400 vs $200) then the Nissens would be more attractive, but not if the prices are fairly close. The lifetime warranty sure is a nice bonus.

Hit Man X · #7 01-25-2005, 03:11 PM

Anyone just had it recored locally?

Hatterasguy · #8 01-25-2005, 06:30 PM

Behr is the oe radiator, I can see where they ground the star off mine.

The dealer wanted $560 give or take I got it for $395. I think I made out pretty good. Their is no aftermarket for the SDL's just Behr.

dieseldiehard · #9 01-25-2005, 07:27 PM

I also suggest one avoid Nissens if at all possible. I have had a new Nissen start leaking around the top where it is crimped on. Warranty or not, its a PITA to deal with that after all.
I never saw a problem with Behrs in that area.
The costs of European impoprted parts will only go up as the USD is weak.

#10 01-25-2005, 07:34 PM

I just paid $460 for a Behr radiator at my local shop. Replaced it yesterday. My 1990 350 SDL developed a leak at the seams where the core meets the plastic tank. Car has 157,000 and is 15 years old. No overheating, I noticed a little steam on my way to work on Friday and drove it to the shop after work. I also had the thermostat and pressure cap replaced, cheap precaution.
AW

barry123400 · #11 01-25-2005, 08:49 PM

I too live in corrosive area of Nova Scotia simular to New York Experienced failure of a few of my volkswagen radiators at the seams due to weakness caused by corrosion. It does not seem to take much. Started years ago to run a light application of high temperature wheel bearing grease around total perimeter of bead/ joint area when installing new or used replacements. Also well worth pulling existing radiators to do. Experienced absolutly no more failures of this type. Will do all my mercedes rads this year even though I do not drive them in winter. If you drive these cars in winter salt conditions it is well worth doing as eliminates what appears to be this kind of failure. Also took apart and examined rads that went bad and they were perfect other than that. No noticeable fin corosion/separation or internal build up. In otherwords they were not old tired rads but just good rads damaged by oxidation of metal fingers in crimp area till strength was reduced enough to allow leakage of coolant past internal gasket between plastic and metal. Also for the older diesel volkswagen owners. The coolant pipe that goes from one heater hose along one end of engine, across face of block as well to water pump area responds just as well and it is a high failure item. The turbo oil return pipe on rear of the engine should be done as well. Why the prevention treatment is kind of mandatory in my opinion on all of the above is failure of any of these components can result in damaging engine and that can be a major expense while you still will have to replace the defective part as well. Truly prevenative in nature.

psdsteve · #12 01-25-2005, 11:40 PM

I got a CSF for 200 dollars delivered to the door from radiatorexpress.com. Quality seems to be very good and it has a lifetime warranty also.

Stephen

Maki · #13 01-26-2005, 01:43 AM

I've purchased several rebuilt OE radiators from Reseda Radiator. Cheaper than new, and I've never had a problem with them. www.resedaradiator.com

Russ M.

Eric Eliel · #14 01-26-2005, 10:06 AM

I bought one from Radiators.com (could have been radiator.com?). It was a Valeo made in Morocco. It was about $200 delivered. Arrived in good condition. Unfortunately it was on my previous 300D which is RIP.

Had a Nissens on my wife's old Volvo. Expect to pull the Nissens and have it resoldered after 18 months. I was not pleased with the minimal amount of machine applied metal seam solder. The SECOND time I had to pull it, I spent a bit more money to have it pressure tested and soldered at a better radiator shop. Yeah 3 TIMES, once to replace by the mechanic and then I got smart and started doing it myself. Twice more for leaks. I do like the repairable feature! Almost worth having a brand new one soldered properly PRIOR to installation.

Dance'w'Diesels · #15 01-26-2005, 11:45 AM

This is great advice Barry! Also thanks to everyone's input on the Nissen Radiator.

Quote:

Originally Posted by barry123400

I too live in corrosive area of Nova Scotia simular to New York Experienced failure of a few of my volkswagen radiators at the seams due to weakness caused by corrosion. It does not seem to take much. Started years ago to run a light application of high temperature wheel bearing grease around total perimeter of bead/ joint area when installing new or used replacements. Also well worth pulling existing radiators to do. Experienced absolutly no more failures of this type. Will do all my mercedes rads this year even though I do not drive them in winter. If you drive these cars in winter salt conditions it is well worth doing as eliminates what appears to be this kind of failure. Also took apart and examined rads that went bad and they were perfect other than that. No noticeable fin corosion/separation or internal build up. In otherwords they were not old tired rads but just good rads damaged by oxidation of metal fingers in crimp area till strength was reduced enough to allow leakage of coolant past internal gasket between plastic and metal. Also for the older diesel volkswagen owners. The coolant pipe that goes from one heater hose along one end of engine, across face of block as well to water pump area responds just as well and it is a high failure item. The turbo oil return pipe on rear of the engine should be done as well. Why the prevention treatment is kind of mandatory in my opinion on all of the above is failure of any of these components can result in damaging engine and that can be a major expense while you still will have to replace the defective part as well. Truly prevenative in nature.