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#1
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Shim or not to shim, that is the (axle) question...
Ok, so Sybill now has her two new (well, new to me...they're actually from a boneyard in Houston) homokinetic axles in place...unfortunately, there were no shims sent along with the axles. See this link: Axles
After installing them and putting the snap ring in place, there is approximately .020" - .030" lateral play at the inboard part of the axle. The FSM says to shim the axle so that the snap ring is a 'tight' fit but I cannot for the life of me, understand why this shimming is important. FYI, I cannot drive the car yet because I need a replacement bushing for the anti-torque mount... I read all the forum stuff about 'preloading' for proper wheel camber but, think about it, the entire axle has to change length when the wheel moves up and down and when you compress the axle to remove it so, shimming the inboard part of the axle couldn't make any difference to camber. Anyway. if you were to put enough outward pressure on the axle to compress it and actually change the wheel camber, the CV joints would probably blow out in a matter of miles! What is everyone's take on this shimming?
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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
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#2
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That shimming is for minimizing the wear on the bearing and the outside seal on the differential... and maybe on the ring gear....
Has nothing to do with the wheels and suspension... |
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#3
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BTT for more exposure and comment.
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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm. |
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#4
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The one I removed yesterday had a very small shim.
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed'81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
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#5
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You shouldn't have any movement in the axle where it connects to the diff.
The CV joints themselves expand and contract to allow the axle to change lengths. The shims keep the shaft on the end of the axle from moving around. On the other side of the axle you have a bolt that you tighten down to remove the slack and prevent movement. In a worst case I think if there is enough movement you might dislodge the clip in the diff. Perhaps just increased wear on the shaft and or receiver in the diff. Perhaps nothing would come of it. That said, my wifes 300D has a shim on one axle and doesn't have one on the other (One axle is annular and the other homokenetic). I could not install the annular axle with the shim that was on the original one. I did not measure the endplay to see if it was "in spec".
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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter. '84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen '83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night. |
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#6
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An important reminder pertaining to the shims...
Need help!!!!! (The important post is near the end of the thread.) Moral of the story, Hang on to your axle shims!! |
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#7
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"BTT for more exposure and comment."
That is called " shopping for an answer I like better ". LOL |
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