I finally got the new rear window seal and have the opening prepared to replace the glass. I got the seal on the glass and the trim in place. The installation instructions call for MB sealant to used in the upper joint of the ornamental trim and to use it to make a seal between the glass and the rubber frame as well as the body and rubber frame. The MB sealant is part # 001 989 31 20. Does anyone know the name of an aftermarket equivalent? My search on this subject shows many of you did not use any sealant at all.

Also, I need to take out the trunk lid seal and do some rust(ouch) control. How hard is it to remove the trunk lid? Looks pretty simple except for the wiring for the trunk light. I cannot find any plug in the wiring harness. I have the panel removed to access the fuel tank and cannot find any simple way to get the trunk light wiring out of the way short of complete removal of the trunk light. Am I missing something? Has anyone done this? How hard is it to get back together? Any alignment issues?

Removal of the trunk lid would make the glass install, rust control, and new trunk lid seal much easier. Any thoughts?

Thanks

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79 240D (no name yet) 203K Miles Maple Yellow
98 2500 4x4 HD Dodge 24 Valve Cummins TD
83 Chevy Van (Dead-Trans. shot)

I have a 1980 123.. and I took the trunk lid off to get the fuel tank out for cleaning... and when I put new sealant around my rear glass....
I highly recommend taking it off.... makes all the difference for access...
I am glad you read the instructions about the Sealant.... have you checked to see how much the actual MB sealant costs ? Might be worth using it.. but I am sure that if you check with the local 3M representative they can provide you with a fine equivalant.
The trunk lid on mine had a fine arrangement which did not even require the four little bolts to keep the hood on... I drove around and tested it myself.. I had no alignment questions at all...

I just did this repair on my W126. In hindsight I would have taken the trunk lid off. You could always cut the wire and splice it together with a littler heat shrink if you have to.

You need some sort of sealent, I recomend MB sealent how many times are you going to do this job? Do it right once, MB stuff costs $30. You are supposed to run a bead around the metal lip. Then they say after the window is in to shoot some in between the gasket and window. Also make sure to use OE seals, the aftermarket ones are junk. For my W126 at least the aftermarket window seal runs about $66 vs $83 from the dealer.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Call your local car paint or auto glass shop. They have the 3M or aftermarket sealer if you would rather have it than the MB sealer. It is probably a butyl rubber compound but I am guessing when I say that. I suspect that you can find it for $10-$15 in the form a tube of caulk.

Be sure to put a good glob around the hole where the window heater wire goes into the trunk. Prime spot for a leak and for rust. While you are in the trunk take out the grommet that that seals the antenna to the fender and seal around it. This is a prime source for water to leak into the bottom of the area behind the rear wheel well and rust out the fender. Coat the bottom of this area with linseed oil. It stays plyable for years.