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Old 02-06-2005, 08:31 PM
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300DT hood hinge support tore through - how to fix?

I bought a 1985 300DT for $3k last month, 153k miles, engine in reasonably good condition (lasted 11-12 seconds during the thumb over the valve cover port test) . The brake pad light came on soon afterwards and there are no lights in the instrument cluster, but the one thing that has me stumped right now is the passenger side hood hinge support. The lower pin and housing had frozen up and some PO (either #1 or #2, I'm #3) managed to apply enough force to rip the whole bottom assembly right through the sheet metal. It looks like a hard spot to work on, let alone repair properly (see attached pic of the bottom of the hinge pivot).

What are my options? Should I see what the local indy says or tackle it myself?


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300DT hood hinge support tore through - how to fix?-hoodhinge.jpg  
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Old 02-06-2005, 09:33 PM
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Location: Evansville WI
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Boy, that's pretty rare, NO body took care of this old girl! Think a new hinge will fiz it up. POSSIBLY the fender needs to come off, not 100% sure, at least the hood is coming off.
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Old 02-06-2005, 09:46 PM
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Angry I have seen this occurance before

:eekAnyway, I once almost made another 123 purchase, and the car had a "torn" hinge bolt...When I had the compression tested by a local independant specialist, he informed me that there is (was) a REPLACEMENT rivet....This part consists(ed) of a special bolt and washer assembly availible thru the dealer. The $ price was said to be MINIMAL for the part...
Maybe someone else with access top part numbers etc. will chime in.
Good luck with the 300D.
best wishes always, and lets keep those diesels firing,Spo out :
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Old 02-06-2005, 10:07 PM
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Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
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hood hinge pivot pin.

I brought a 300d with exactly the same problem on drivers side some years ago. Your right it was not the nicest repair to do. Struck me at time would have been much easier done with fender off. Left my fender on. Anyways you need welding gear before tackling. I used stick welder with very small 3/32 rods. Was no room to get my mig head in there. Just soaked pin/bushing in penetrating oil first and unfortunatly that was not enough in my case to separate them. Resorted to ox/actylene and had to heat till red to get parts separated. Rewelded bushing into washer and combination to inner fender . Do not remember if it was a standard large washer or I had to fabricate one specially in my lathe or on drill press. Additional metal support of the washer was required because bushing rips or tears out the metal leaving nothing to weld bushing to. It was originally spot welded around its outer flange..You kind of know that pin is going to be badly seized in the bushing as it tears out with the sheet metal before turning even though the turning moment is massive. Too bad the spot welds do not fail instead. Remermber to lubricate the other side well as it would be miserable to repair one side only to have the other tear out at some later date. For anyone else reading this note. Far easier to lubricate the hood pivot hinge points once a year even if they are a little hard to get to and obscure.. (very easy to miss) The resultant effort to repair is way out of proportion in comparison. Preventative maintenance again. Edit: Just had a look at your picture again. The part I am talking about is a pin that comes out of the lower hinge arm at the very back. This pin goes through a bushing perimeter spot welded to inner fender and is way back in there. I straightened my hinge that was also a mess like yours but it should not be a problem to locate a good used one to start from a wreckers and makes the job much easier. Also your failure is on pasenger side. Just got back from garage checking one on passenger side. Great as it is easier to repair than drivers side. After battery is out lots more room. Go for it if you have a mig or a friend that has one as that side is much easier. (lots more room) Proof we are on the same item is that there is a large slide clip keeping the pin in the bushing if I am right. Needless to say only install spring after all repairs are completed and it was pretty easy putting rope on spring hook and pulling spring out to reconnect afterwards. Guess will need a brain transplant as had to look a third time at your picture. You or someone previously have already removed the slide retention clip and one has to go back on to complete repair.. An example of this clip is on drivers hinge..

Last edited by barry123400; 02-06-2005 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 02-07-2005, 11:27 AM
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Thank you much for the advice. Yes, you're right there is a retention clip on the end of the pin. It was missing when I got the vehicle. If anyone knows about the part number for the washer/bolt replacement assembly from the dealer, I'll check into that too. To lubricate these pivot pins, is WD40 sufficient or do I need to disassemble and grease the pin? Sure don't want this to happen again on either side! Thanks again for the help. I'm a novice re these cars but feel I've already learned a lot from this forum.

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Old 02-07-2005, 12:16 PM
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Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
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Not high tech. Normal oil from a spout can better than wd 40 as the wd 40 pretty well evaporates. You do not have to dissasemble other side as the oil will creep into the sleeve/pin joint. Just lubricate on both sides of sleeve. Of course do your repaired side before putting battery back in as pretty well impossible with battery installed to get at it. Thats why I mentioned people miss this and is not really a reflection on the car itself. Just my opinions anyways.
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