Got my new 98 E300 (thanks Herb!) with 229k. I drove it 1,200 miles home yesterday back from Memphis, TN.

The car runs great except it is very low on power and the "check engine electronics" indicator is on. Herb scanned the car and it shows an "EGR low flow" error. After I couldn't take the horrible power loss anymore, I plugged the vacuum line to the EGR valve.. seemed to help a bit but the car is still a dog.. Had trouble climbing the mountains on I-68 in WV and MD.

Any suggestions? I want to rip into it today. Thanks!

Ok, since the computer is detecting an EGR problem, it is cutting the turbo boost. There's (almost) no way around it with this car, the EGR has to function properly in order to get full power back. Look up Lightman's thread on replacing glow plugs in order to get the procedure for removing the intake manifold and EGR. Clean everything out, including the EGR valve and associated piping, and make sure the valve is not sticking. Put it back together, unplug that vacuum line, clear the code, and the power should come back.

The ONLY way to disable the EGR and not lose power is to electronically fool the computer into thinking that it still works. There is a well documented mod for the VW TDI to do this, but to my knowledge nobody has done it on an E300. Give me a call if you need more help.

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Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Lightman's thread is here.

Read the whole thing before you rip into it. I put some warnings in there about parts falling into the engine if you don't take them off first.

And update your signature.

__________________
Rick Miley
2014 Tesla Model S
2018 Tesla Model 3
2017 Nissan LEAF
Former MB: 99 E300, 86 190E 2.3, 87 300E, 80 240D, 82 204D Euro
Chain Elongation References

Ok.. I just cleaned the intake and EGR.. The EGR was completely covered in goo.. I see why it didn't work. The car runs better but is still lacking some upper RPM power which I assume is a boost issue. I unhooked the battery for a half hour.. I'm going to see if it cleared the codes and if it throws a new one.

Here are some pics.. http://207.44.234.41/intake/

Ok I just took it out for a test drive.. check engine light is still on but I assume I will need to get that reset. I put a bottle of redline in the tank, took away a little injector knock and I took for a good blast up and down the highway.

The car runs 100% better.. much more power and response but it still falls flat on it's face after 3-4k rpm. When the car is cold the power is there, but once it warms up it seems the boost goes away. Any ideas?

I too have a 98 300TD. My engine electronics light came on at around 86,000. Since I am not a mechanic, I took it to the shop and had the Mass Air Flow device changed. Apparently a common problem from other postings.
You got a great car! I saw the pix on eBay. Mine is just like yours but with black leather. Enjoy! Stan of Boulder