Checking/Adjusting IP Timing - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

veg_burner · #1 03-18-2005, 02:57 PM

Is this something I need to take it to a dealership for -- or should I find a good diesel shop?

Doktor Bert · #2 03-18-2005, 03:00 PM

This really isn't difficult to do, provided you have the procedure listed in a shop manual...Bert

dannym · #3 03-18-2005, 03:09 PM

Hey,
This tutorial from the DIY section wouldn't work?
Click Here

Also shouldn't the engine timing be checked first?

Danny

Stevo · #4 03-18-2005, 03:13 PM

veg_burner

Do a search, lots written about timing your IP. I recommend the "bubble method", others will recommend the "drip method" Why do you want to time the IP, its not something that usually goes "out" unless someones been messing with it.

DieselAddict · #5 03-18-2005, 03:34 PM

This something that I did last night, and I was pleased that my timing was spot on and I didn't have to adjust it. The Haynes manual has a good description of the drip method, much better than the link provided by dannym. In fact I believe that linked procedure has flaws in it and seems amateurish. They're rotating the engine from the bottom and they're afraid to remove the delivery valve and spring which is what you're supposed to do. BTW I tried the bubble method first and I couldn't get any air to come out despite nearly blowing my brain out. I found the drip method a lot easier, it's just a little messier. Generally I followed the Haynes procedure except that I didn't rely on the 1-drop-per-second crap. I found that if you wait long enough the dripping will eventually slow to that rate at many different degrees of rotation. IMO the thing to look for is the last degree at which you can get solid fuel to come out by priming the hand pump. Beyond that the flow will quickly start getting restricted. That's your timing point.

That said, timing on an MB diesel engine is not routine maintenance! It can only get out of spec if the timing chain significantly stretches or if some incompetent mechanic tries to "tune" the car.

boneheaddoctor · #6 03-18-2005, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselAddict

This something that I did last night, and I was pleased that my timing was spot on and I didn't have to adjust it. The Haynes manual has a good description of the drip method, much better than the link provided by dannym. In fact I believe that linked procedure has flaws in it and seems amateurish. They're rotating the engine from the bottom and they're afraid to remove the delivery valve and spring which is what you're supposed to do. BTW I tried the bubble method first and I couldn't get any air to come out despite nearly blowing my brain out. I found the drip method a lot easier, it's just a little messier. Generally I followed the Haynes procedure except that I didn't rely on the 1-drop-per-second crap. I found that if you wait long enough the dripping will eventually slow to that rate at many different degrees of rotation. IMO the thing to look for is the last degree at which you can get solid fuel to come out by priming the hand pump. Beyond that the flow will quickly start getting restricted. That's your timing point.

That said, timing on an MB diesel engine is not routine maintenance! It can only get out of spec if the timing chain significantly stretches or if some incompetent mechanic tries to "tune" the car.

Cool I still need to retime my W116...I know its off somewhat....doesn't start right up like it should and white smoke the first few seconds.....I did have the IP out as a swap proving a problem I had wasn't the IP.....

veg_burner · #7 03-18-2005, 04:03 PM

I'm getting my injectors rebuilt for veggie oil use & TomJ recommended I advance my timing slightly. Also I thought it would be good to check the chain stretch as preventative maintenance.
How is the engine timing & IP timing different?

boneheaddoctor · #8 03-18-2005, 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by veg_burner

I'm getting my injectors rebuilt for veggie oil use & TomJ recommended I advance my timing slightly. Also I thought it would be good to check the chain stretch as preventative maintenance.
How is the engine timing & IP timing different?

Think of IP timing the same as ignition timing in a gasser....

and chain stretch effecting the actual cam timing.....IP is driven off the timing chain..so one chain stretch effects the IP...AND the Actual cam timing both, by retarding them as wear increaces.

veg_burner · #9 03-19-2005, 07:04 PM

Pardon my thickheadedness but do I need to check/be concerned with the engine/cam timing, or if I check my IP timing will that tell me if the chain has any stretch?
I'm still a little unclear on the difference...

boneheaddoctor · #10 03-19-2005, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by veg_burner

Pardon my thickheadedness but do I need to check/be concerned with the engine/cam timing, or if I check my IP timing will that tell me if the chain has any stretch?
I'm still a little unclear on the difference...

You need to know the amount of stretch of the chain so you know if its due for replacement........

if it fails at speed you will likely be shopping for another engine.

leathermang · #11 03-20-2005, 07:42 AM

The chain elongation should be checked and dealt with if needed first... because if you set the IP and then find the chain needs to be replaced you will have to set the IP AGAIN...
And if the chain is elongated enough to affect the valve timing ... then how much " improvement" from having the IP set to the right place would you expect ?

P.E.Haiges · #12 03-20-2005, 09:54 AM

Veg Burner,

Remember the IP timing will change only about 1/2 as much as the cam timing due to wear (elongation) of the timing chain.

This is because the IP is about 1/2 as far from the crankshaft sprocket as the cam is. So if your cam timing is 4 degrees late, your IP timing is probably 2 degrees late unless the IP was previously adjusted.

P E H

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