Hello group -- can someone with an EPC look up the part number for the big bolt that goes through the rear subframe bushing on a W123 chassis? While removing the rotten left bushing from my 300td I managed to snap the head off the bolt.

Thanks,
Russ M

i do not have it - i can look it up tonight on a receipt...but i can tell you the dealer sold me two of them, and i think they were about $17 a pop...going all off of memeory here - a year ago purchase...
i remember soaking mine for days before they came loose, amazingly enough - above teh rott line the bolt was brand new...
jake

I look up the part #

it appears to be 115-352-00-69
maybe some one else can confirm.....

__________________
240_Dizzell

74 240D Auto,Beige (Totaled)
82 240D 4-Speed Manual,Gray (Retired) 260,000
97 E300 D Auto, Blue (Current) 240,000
05 E320 CDI Auto,TITANITE RED (Current) 158,000

go to a junk yard and get one for pennies on the dollar.

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I just called and confirmed the number with Phil.
115-352-00-69

MB dealer order only = $23.50 each.

I've got my order in at the local MB dealer in West Allis... $20.79 each with their generic "club" discount factored in. Their parts counter is usually not too outrageous price-wise (unless you consider $20 for a bolt outrageous ) but I can't trust 'em to get the part right on these old cars if I don't have the number or if I'm not looking over their shoulder. Hence, I do appreciate the help.

As for dieselbeagle's suggestion that I get replacement bolts from the junkyard: it's just not worth the grief to me for a $20 part, especially up here in the salt belt. Thanks for the suggestion, though.

I swapped out both rear subframe mounts in my 300 cd -- a California car -- in less than an hour. My 300td hails from Atlanta, but the elements had seized the bolt up solid in the subframe mount. After cranking on the bolt until I snapped the head off, I had to carve the mount off of the bolt with a Roto-Zip so I could apply heat to the bolt stud without setting anything on fire. So far, the one mount has taken about 5 hours of struggle, but the broken bolt IS out...

Seems like the bolt on the other side is gonna be a little less stubborn, but I've refrained from engaging in serious tugging til I've buttoned up the side I'm working on now. Wish me luck!

Russ M

This may be a little elementary for this site, but I've had great luck using "Fabulous Blaster" on this kind of thing without twisting bolts off -------- superior to everything else I've tried ... available most everywhere now (20 yrs ago it was new & hard to find).

This and other products are not very effective for this job, the bolt shank is a close fit to the sleeve and corrosion builds to weld quality bond.
Due to location, and design of the mounts it is nearly impossible to get any lubricant where needed.

My answer is say a prayer that none are seized, remove the bolts and grease them when you get the car, then forget them until the mounts need replacing.