I learned an important lesson about quality parts. I caution you to only use front end parts from Fastlane, Rusty, or someone else who will stand behind them. Last year, I replaced my ball joints on my 87 300D with OCAP brand because I didn't know any better. Within 6 months, one of them broke while I was driving, severly damaging the passenger side fender and necessitaing a tow. I ordered a new pair from Rusty at the time and evidently did not make myself clear. I only received one joint. I replaced the one and double checked the other to be sure it was oriented correctly (locator notches toward the detent on the control arm). It was, so I wasn't too concerned.

Last week I ordered new front struts, a vacuum pump (to replace the OE prone to failure one with 265K miles) and the other ball joint. They arrived on Thursday. I replaced the vacuum pump on Thursday afternoon and planned to replace the struts and ball joints on Friday after I visited some people in the hospital. On the way home from the hospital, three blocks from the house, the other ball joint broke. I had to replace the ball joint in the street during rush hour.
Fortunately, it did not do as much damage to the fender this time and I think it can be repaired when I get the car painted ($2500 estimate on strip and paint - it needs stripped because the paint is cracking).

I replaced the struts, strut boots, and strut mounts on Saturday. It has been an expensive week. The car rides much better and I am not constantly imagining the bearings falling out of my vacuum pump and into the timing chain.

Replacing 124 Ball Joints:
Loosen the lug nuts.
Jack car using lower control arm as jack point.
Install jack stand under frame.
Remove wheel and tire.
Remove tie rod end from spindle side.
Remove caliper and rotor.
Bend backing plate slightly to clear ball joint.
Move the jack to a point on the control arm close to the ball joint
Remove through bolt at ball joint stud.
Remove stud from spindle (can be very tough if joint is broken - use vise grips with a pry bar in the slit).
Using a ball joint press, press out the old joint.
(I use this one http://makeashorterlink.com/?E2F6322CA)
Press in the new joint, making sure that the indents on the lower part of the casing line up with the detent on the control arm.
Reassemblle in reverse order.

If I missed something in the description, let me know.

Bill Ciocco
1987 300D 265K miles
Mt Pleasant, SC

__________________
Bill <><