Thank you Mr. Carlton I will begin to do the testing on the glow plugs and I'll get back as soon as I can get that done

You burnt the regulator.
"NEVER", disconnect battery cables with engine running, it blows the voltage regulator.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

I connected the GP relay this weekend, and did a test run so far so good. As of today the car started right away, I sure that the mild weather in Denver has helped out too... Once again thank ya'll very much hopefully the next reply will be other stuff (preferably not about my Diesel)

Something odd. I just put a voltage gauge on my TD saturday. On The way home the Vgauge would PEG at 16v above 1000 rpm. I had to run every electrical device I had to keep it below 15V. Amazingly, not one thing blew up! After sitting overnight it stays around 13.1-13.9v.

Be careful with this. You caught the signs of a bad VR before it does any damage. Fix it now.

So soon? It's a new Bosch VR and not even a year old.

Apparently Bosch ain't what it used to be.

The volt meter could also be off a bit. Is the 13.9v after sitting over nite an engine running value or engine off value?

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

awhile back there was a thread about an improved VR that a MBZ enthuthist made with diodes and its seemed interesting, just remember 12 bucks can fix a faulty VR I had to buy one after the GP relay drama.

The Voltage gauge is dang close. I used my DVOM to check at the battery:

Everything off: 12.2v
engine cranking (w/glowplugs): 10.1v
engine running (just started): 12.2v
will stay at 12.2v until revved
rev to 1000rpm after fresh start: excites the alternator to 13.3v
stays at 13.3v at idle after first revvs
idle with all loads on (glowplugs lights, fan, blower, etc.): 12.8v
drive at 3000rpm (65mph): 14.2v
drive at 3000rpm with loads: 13.7v

What is engine RPM before you accelerate to 1000 RPM?

The idle is 700rpm cold and 850rpm warm.

Well, the regulator took a complete dump today.

Everything off: 12.2v
engine cranking (w/glowplugs): 10.1v
engine running (just started): 12.9v
revv the engine above 1500rpm w/o electrical load:18.2v
Stays at 18.2v while driving
With all electric loads (Head/fog lights, cooling fan, blower, and radio) will bring it to 12.8v-13.5v depending on rpm.

If I turn off these loads it will drop back to the normal 13.5-14.1 range for a few seconds. Then, it will suddenly jump back to 18.2v.

I guess I'll just have to bite it and swap in a new VR.
Worse comes to worse, I'll just swap in a Saab 80A alternator.