617 engine, replacing the oil separator check valve in the upper oil pan.
 

As discussed in this post

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/116469-oil-coming-up-cyclone-drain-tube.html?highlight=turbo+drain+tube+gaskets

My car has an annoying leak near the turbo and oil separator drain tubes. I replace the turbo drain tube grommets and gaskets in this post

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/107686-617-turbo-oil-return-line-replacing-seals.html?highlight=turbo+oil+drain

I replaced the O rings in the oil separator drain tube and still had the leak.
My theory is that the check valve was remaining open allowing oil to be sucked up the drain tube, OR the valve was stuck closed and not allowing the oil in the tube to drain after engine shutdown. With the engine running I’m sure that there is always a vacuum, caused by the turbo, in the oil separator/drain tube area. To prevent the oil in the oil pan from being sucked up into the air filter assembly, the check valve shuts off the oil pan air going into the drain tube. Then all the air/oil from the PCV tube going into the oil separator accumulates in the cyclone bowl and drains down the tube. When the engine is shut off the check valve in the upper oil pan opens and allows the accumulated oil to drain. At least this is what I have concluded. Is this the way the system works?? Not 100% sure but the theory seems logical. If anyone else has a better idea please speak up.

Parts needed.
1. A new check valve.
2. A new holding sleeve.
3. A new lower oil pan gasket.
4. 8 quarts of oil.
5. A new oil drain plug washer
6. A new filter if you want to do this.

Torques for the bolts.
Drain plug 35-45 Nm (25-33 Ft Lbs)
Oil pan bolts 9-11 Nm (6-8 Ft Lbs 79-97 Inch Lb )


Photo#1. Is the oil separator setup in the 617 engine. Item number 7 is the check valve and the drain tube is highlighted in red.

Photo #2. This is the problem. The result of what I think is a failure of the check valve to operate correctly. After removing the check valve I found it to operate poorly and intermittently.

Photo #3. Another view of the area where the oil is leaking

Photo #4. These are the tools I used doing the job.

A. Lots of shop rags. The oil pump will continue to drip while the oil pan is off, annoying and messy
B. A inch Pound torque wrench to tighten the oil pan bolts. Attached to it are a ¼ drive extension and a 5MM allen head socket.
C. A paint scrapper to completely clean the upper oil pan matting surface for the power oil pan.
D. Pliers to remove the holding sleeve.
E. A 5MM allen T wrench to remove the oil pan bolts.
F. A 10MM socket set and extension to remove the air filter assembly.
G. A 13MM box wrench to remove the oil drain plug
H. Lots of degreaser.
I. A brass punch to drive the holding sleeve into the upper oil pan.
J. A hammer to, well you know what a hammer is for!!

Photo #5. These are the 2 parts that you should buy to do the job. The new check valve to the left and a new holding sleeve on the right. The check valve looks a lot like the vacuum pump check valve. I would recommend a new holding sleeve. The old one might not spring back correctly when removing and you don’t want to go back in there to fix that.

continued

Dave

Photo #6. Now to get to work. I removed the air filter assembly so I could clean the drain tube out. I did not take a picture of that. This picture shows the car on 2 sturdy jack stand and you need to drain the oil. Once you remove the oil pan the engine, oil will continue to drip. Lots of rags and you will get oil on yourself.

Photo #7 This is the lower oil pan . Use a 5MM allen wrench setup to remove all the allen head bolts holding the oil pan. The oil pan is light and 1 allen head bolt will hold it in position but make sure you don’t bend or twist it. There will be an ounce of oil in the bottom of the pan when removing it.

Photo #8. 4 bolts are of a different length and should be kept track of. This, out of focus, picture shows the driver side transmission cooler line holding bracket. This bolt is longer that the others. Also on the transmission cooler lines are 2 spacers, don’t forget these.

Photo # 9. On the passengers side of the engine are the 3 other bolts that should be kept track of. The other transmission cooling line holding bolt ( and spacer) and the 2 bolts that hold the AC high pressure hose in position on the upper oil pan area. The AC hose bolts also have nuts that do the actual AC hose hold down. The 2 bolts that hold the oil cooler lines are longer that the AC hose bolts.

Photo #10 The culprit. The opening on the top that has the sleeve and check valve is the oil separator drain tube unit. The other large opening is the turbo oil drain line tube. Notice the amount of sludge in the check valve.

continued

Dave

Photo #11. To remove the holding sleeve just use some standard pliers and squeeze the holding clamp so that it can be pulled out. I then sprayed degreaser down the drain tube to make sure nothing was blocking it. After it drained I blew air though it for a while to completely evaporate the degreaser.

Photo #12 Here is the new check valve and holding sleeve installed. To install it. The nipple on the check valve MUST BE DOWN. While holding the clamping sleeve with your pliers place the check valve on the sleeve with the check valve nipple down. Position the combination in the hole and press it in. The clamping sleeve has a beveled edge and a non beveled edge. I placed the beveled edge at the top to assist in inserting the sleeve. I could only get the sleeve started using the pliers. I then drove the combination all the way using the brass punch and the hammer. Tap it lightly this is not a wheel bearing or such. You will know when it is seated by the change in sound while tapping as well as it not moving any further. Note the amount of exposed sleeve in the pictures.

Photo # 13. All the parts have been cleaned and are gathered together to reassemble. Notice the new oil pan gasket. Make sure you completely remove all of the old gasket from the matting surface. Photo # 12 shows the clean surface of the upper oil pan.

Photo # 14. The completely assembled oil pan with new gasket and check valve. I now have to degrease and pressure wash the engine and under carriage. This leak has made a mess.

Photo # 15. My personal reward.

I will let everyone know how the repair has gone and let you know if the has solved the problem.

Dave

So NOW I can post? I wish my 240 had a turbo down tube so I could take advantage of all the work you did.... :D

Dave, very nicely done. A model how-to IMHO.

OOPS! A slight slip there. :D :D
I believe that is for the oil separator drain.

Dave, did the old check valve look like it was damaged in any way? Or was it just a lot of sludge?

My oil separator seems to be draining better (less oil in air filter area) since I ran a little motor flush through it at the last oil change. (New air filter mounting and o-rings too)

BTW, great how-to.

I think the check valve just got old and contaminated. Making the valve work by blowing and sucking on it (can you say bad taste). I did this without cleaning inside it, just wiped the oil away from the outer ring that the lips touched. I wanted it to be in the same condition as when it was installed. I found that it did not operate as smooth as the new one. It also seemed that small particles may have gotten in it. Those small particles were probably causing the valve to stick. I have not even driven the car since the "operation". It was a great day here so we drove the SL with the top down.

Dave

Drove the car this morning around town. Had to bring 7-8 gallons of old paint to the Crud Wagon. Each year the town has it come by to collect all the bad chemicals. I also had about 4 gallons of old contaminated diesel in a large Pool Chlorine powder container. At the current cost of diesel, I though of trying to clean it but realized it was over 1 year old and had algae in it.
I then had the car sit in the garage for 4-5 hours. No oil leak. I then de-greased and pressure washed the engine and front suspension. I will let you know about the oil drip situation after a 100 miles or so.

So far so good.

Dave

This seems to be exactly one of my problems!! One question though, where did you get the new check valve & holding sleeve? What are the part numbers? Were they from Fastlane?

Thanks for the tips/help!!!

Anyone have those part numbers or know where to get them from?

McRoth
I think?? the part number is

617-018-00-29 Check valve. Make sure it comes up as check valve.


It has now been a couple of weeks and driving the car has produced no oil leaks form this area. Lets not talk about the other leaks. So this was the cause of the leak around the upper oil pan area.

Dave

Thanks Dave!
Glad it fixed your problem, hopefully it'll fix one of my leaks too!

Item Number: 6170180029
Main Category: MB
Sub Category: Engine Mechanical
Description: Oil return line "check valve"...OM617 turbo...
Weight: 0.100


Item Number: 007346020001
Main Category: MB
Sub Category: Engine Mechanical
Description: Clamping sleeve
Weight: 0.100




Have a great day. :)

Drain tube question
 

Dave,

Excellent writeup! My drain tube from my air cleaner housing is loose. I can wiggle it a few inches in all direction. Is the vertical tube in this pic the drain tube?

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/25845d1114794740-617-engine-replacing-oil-separator-check-valve-upper-oil-pan-oil-seperator-fix-9.jpg

Do you have the p/n of the o-rings and hardware I need to put the drain tube back into service? Any pics from the FSM would be helpful.

The tube visible is the turbo drain tube. The separator drain tube is behind the turbo drain tube.
If you can wiggle the tube check the mount bracket to the tube. It has been know to break. Otherwise it has just become unbolted.
Sorry I don't have the part numbers for the orings.

Dave

just use some Wrigley's and duct tape
proper repairs are for chumps

Sorry couldn't resist- seriously since you are apparently averse to replacing your oil cooler hoses with the proper parts, why would you bother with following the FSM in this matter? Why not just repair it however which way you want? This issue is definitely not as important as the oil cooler hose issue that you seem to be so cavalier in blowing off. Priorities are definitely askew here. I'm confused.

To resecure that oil separator drain tube, you will just about have to remove the manifolds and turbocharger. Yes, I have actually performed this repair myself. The bracket that holds the tube firmly to the back of the lower manifold support strap is most likely worn away. If you let it go, the tube will bang around and wear severely at random points along its length. In time this will develop into an oil leak, but it is not something that will kill your car. Do a search for a thread started by myself entitled 'week o' fun'. The o-ring at the top and bottom of the tube is the same size as the oil dipstick o-ring, and that's what you should look for.

I have the same problem with the tube. It moves in all directions. I plan on replacing my check valve and the turbo drain tube grommet as well. There is oil everywhere!! Around the oil pan, under the air filter, down the header pipe to the exhaust bracket. There's also oil on the entire engine and under the radiator of all places!! The PO cut the metal part of the upper oil cooler line and attached a rubber hose with clamps and used some sort of RTV where the rubber hose meets the metal tube :eek:. The day I drove it home, it was an oil geyser!!! It looks like it happened a few times before. I fixed it already, but a lot of clean up. Most of the oil is dry and all my parts are black!! :mad:

Anyway, sorry to off on a tangent like that, just so I understand, the oil separator drain tube is secured via a bracket attached to the engine block?? And it is not secured at the check valve itself?? So basically, once you unsecure it from the bracket, it should come off very easily?? Did I get that right??

To those wanting to do this repair of the check valve, I have not found the check valve available anyone have a supply?
617-018-00-29 Check valve

Preventive Maintenance
 

After reading this thread I now pour a few ounces of Marvel Mystery oil down the oil seperator at oil change time. My theory is it will keep the check valve clean of gunk and I'll never have to replace it.

More pics of part and procedure
 

Here are some more pics to add to Dave's excellent write up (who inspired me!)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/206187-tips-pics-617turbo-oil-drain-check-valve-oil-pump-pickup-boot-strainer-sealing.html?highlight=oil+drain

I agree with buddyligon, I couldn't get the check valve from fastlane nor from my local dealer.

Can anyone explain what the purpose is of this system? Why connect the valve cover to the air cleaner in the first place? What harm would be caused by capping off the top of the valve cover, removing the oil drain tube connecting the air filter to the oil pan and plugging the holes?

Thanks!
Joe.
_________________________________
'82 300 D Turbo 137,000 mi
New owner since April '08
Just recieved my Golden Fuel Systems 2 tank system in the mail, haven't had a chance to install. Trying to track down all the oil leaks first!

If you plug the holes, too much pressure will build up in the crankcase, if you have even the faintest blowby, and then at best your engine will stall, or at worst blow out the seals.

Oh, okay, that's a good reason not to plug the holes!

So, any recommendations for finding this check valve?

Any recommendations for alternative fixes?

Thanks!
Joe.

I asked the classic center at the mbca site, but they said that the part has been discontinued. Luckily, there are a number of MB dealers that use that board and one of them did a check for me and found one at another dealer. Might be worth a try.

Answer:
 

I am checking on this.

It appears to be the same valve used in the vacuum pump.

:EDIT: It is identical = the vacuum pump valve works.
picture attached.

Not on my car...
 

I am about to replace my oil pan, the gasket, both motor mounts and shocks, and the oil cooler lines. I had read this thread and was thinking I might want to replace the check valve too while I have everything apart. I looked at my car to kind of see what I would be looking at and it turns out my car lacks this part all together. There is only one tube going into the top of the upper oil pan and when I felt back there it seemed like it was just a blank spot where this tube and check valve would be. The car is a euro turbo 617 and it looks like the valve cover vent runs directly to the air intake just in front of the turbo. Looks like I will not have to worry about whether the part is still available or not.

Any updates?
 

Even if the check valve is the same, what about the securing ring?

Part numbers?

I spray carb cleaner half a can.Then change oil,about every 6 months.

I was considering something along those lines but not knowing the composition of the parts, I was concerned about damage. Wouldn't brake cleaner be less aggressive on rubber components? In another post, someone mentioned Marvel Mystery Oil.

Clamping sleeve
 

Clamping sleeve
MB# 007346020001

Thanks,
I was reading your post that this part would be reused. I've got an old vacuum pump that I removed that should have good check valves. It started making a mechanical noise at about 200K miles so it was replaced with a new one as a precaution.

617 seperator valve?
 

Hi Dave, -panZZer nextdoor in Southlake, is this seperator valve in the aircleaner? I swapped out the rattle can aircleaner for a 85 Ca aircleaner and plugger the rear drain tube ---so have I unknowingly eliminated this hassle? Also the 85 CA car did not even have a rear drain tube setul and the valve cover tube goes to the usual places--to the Ca aircleaner -with a down tube before that going to the rubber aircleaner/turbo connecting hose.

Answer..
 

It is the same valve..


The only options for getting this valve today are:
* Good used valve from a vacuum pump.
* New Vacuum Pump Repair Kit MB# 000 586 17 23

Repair Kit, For Vacuum Pump Piston Type To Pump, Includes Seals and Valves
MB# 0005861723
SPECIAL ORDER HBL Vacuum Pump Kit,0005861723 - PeachParts




Clamping sleeve
MB# 007346020001
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=007346020001

Edit: Found out it's now only available in the vacuum pump repair kit.

ld thread but a vey useful one.

Anyways, i had my air cleaner out and discovered the tube that goes from the oil separator down to the upper oil pan was loose. I could pull it up and down very freely. Now it leaks pretty badly.... :(

I looked at EPC and there doesn't seem to be a seal ring where the tube goes into the upper oil pan.... am i wrong? Why is it leaking?

Answer
 

Seal ring, oil separator
MB# 006 997 26 45
Fastlane:
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1913995


There are two O-rings, one on the air filter housing finger, and one on the upper oil pan fitting.

Note:
If the drain tube bracket is broken/missing = the vibration/abrasion against other engine parts can rub through the tube.

Picture attached.

ohh okay, i think i get a better picture of how it fits in there now.

So the oil separator tube is the female part that slides over the male part on the upper pan housing which is where the seal is? Its hard to tell but i think thats right. Correct me if im wrong, thank you.

Answer
 

Correct.

Thank you! i'll be taking it apart tomorrow morning and replace that o-ring when the motor is cold.

Hopefully this helps anyone else who had the same question as me.

O-rings are easy...
 

forget part numbers for most o-rings.

Harbor freight, Northern Tool, and numerous other sources sell assortments of the usual fasteners you need on cars for cheap. I keep stocked in my pre-x bin a large assortment of o-rings, clips, gaskets, and other job-stoppers.

Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule, but this kinda stuff makes life easier.


http://www.harborfreight.com/397-piece-metric-o-ring-assortment-67580.html?utm_medium=cse&utm_source=googlebase&hft_adv=40010&mr:trackingCode=8A700F9E-782A-E011-B31E-001B2163195C&mr:referralID=NA

Where can we get these? I've got oil seepage from the turbo drain grommet (cracked) and the separator drain and would like to rebuild it all with fresh seals and of course do the check valve and sleeve while I am in there. Cant find them on fastlane...

Going to send Phil an email tomorrow about the orings, if the .92 cent item comes 2 rings to a pack or should I order 2 of them, or just 2 of the dipstick rings...

Answer
 

Repair Kit, For Vacuum Pump Piston Type To Pump, Includes Seals and Valves
MB# 0005861723



.

Thank you sir, but good graaavy... this is a check valve....for $90!!! :eek: I think I will r/r mine and see if it works first, does this come with the sealing collar?

Answer
 

NO.
That is the vacuum pump rebuild kit.

The collar does not go bad = reuse it.

I suggest grabbing the good-used valves out of a salvage yard vacuum pump..

FYI:
The lower engine oil pan must be removed to clean or replace this valve.


.

thanks again for the insight..I wish I had done this job when I changed the pan a few weeks back...oh well...it is a PROJECT car..LOL

Cleaning valve in place?
 

Since the replacement valve is no longer available as a stand alone product , are there cleaning agents could be used to prolong the life of the valve?

Hammerwerfer

Yes
 

I most often use spray carburetor or brake cleaner.

If the valve is removed, I have used kerosene, diesel, and many other chemicals.


.

Do all 617 equipped with this check valve? I have 85 300D turbo, Californian version. I couldn't find any check valve in there, after opening the oil pan. Unlike in Dave's picture(#12), it's just an empty hole. It wasn't in the oil pan and it wasn't on the ground either.
Thanks

The 85 kali kar does not have the drain tube going into the upper pan. the 85 Federal version does have this drain tube and Check valve.

Your 85 has the Air Filter behind the R/F Headlight. all the other Turbo W123`s 82 - 84 and 85 Fed have this drain tube.

If you notice the tube from the Valve Cover to the Air Filter has a piece 1/2 way in between that splits off to the air intake to the Turbo. this gives it the suction it needs to pull the blow-by gasses out of the engine. some get into the air filter housing and make a mess in the bottom of the housing.

Charlie