Originally Posted by leathermang

.........."from my observation of the ip drip method i think the mb engineers wanted you to use the column of oil in the fuel filter"
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Originally Posted by james f. coon

.................................. We used ether mist over the intake manifold opening and kept doing that a little at a time until the engine smoothed out (instructions from the archives).
Thanks again,..........................

JFC

Originally Posted by james f. coon

Thanks to all who have responded.

This is my first experience owning and working on a diesel. The car is an MB 77 300D. This is an engine swap. I do have a friend, mechanic but not diesel menhanic helping me. I am using the Haynes Manual which is a pretty good manual. I have followed the instructions to the T from the manual and I couldn't get the one drop per second thing so we got it as close as possible and buttoned things up, started the engine. We used ether mist over the intake manifold opening and kept doing that a little at a time until the engine smoothed out (instructions from the archives). It didn't smoke. The throttle is very slow to respond. We drove it and went from 0 to 60 in about a minute. Just no power.

Now I really need help.............

When we took the engine out, we failed to mark the vacuum lines that go to the IP, under the dash, to the ignition, etc. I don't have them hooked up. I was reading the thread posted by Phantom showing the vacuum diagrams but there was none for a 77 300D. Reading the archives someone said it didn't matter if they were disconnected. Don't know if that is making this engine powerless or what. I'm not able to shut off the engine with the key.

When we were adjusting the valves, my son mentioned as he was turning the engine over, that it felt as if there was a lot of compression. So I'm assuming the rings and valves are in good shape. The engine we installed has 212K on it. We did install new rod and main bearings.

So we decided to go back to the IP timing again and see if we could get the "one drop per second" done up right. And therefore I will ask again:

When I find the spot where I am getting good full flow, no air, and it begins to slow to dripping, am I suppose to be looking for a constant one drop per second? Does it sit there and drop one drop per second at a time for a long period of time? And if that is the case I should be right on time. Right?

I know the timing is critical as is an all engines. Therefore, I appreciate all the help with this project. I also desperately need help with the vacuum lines. I've raised several hoods on 77's--81's looking for one that is hooked up right to no avail.

Thanks again,

JFC

Originally Posted by Carrameow

The test is supposed to be done with a special column of diesel to get constant head pressure.

What you can do instead (if you have a sedan, at least) is fill the fuel tank and get the back of the car up on ramps or jackstands. Then you won't have to pump by hand.

In all respect, are you sure?

Originally Posted by Ted_Grozier

I also remember reading about an alternative method where you dip paper towel into the delivery valve body and watch for the fuel to come out, but I've never tried it.


Ted

Originally Posted by Ted_Grozier

While I haven't found it in the FSM I remember reading about the "column" from Stu Ritter almost a decade ago. If I recall correctly it was like a big graduated cylinder and you might have even watched the rate of fuel drop.

In my experience with the timing procedure (using the drip tool) the transition from a fast flow to nothing at all is very fast. I think the "one drop per second" refers not to a specific flow rate but that region between continuous flow and residual drops.

I also remember reading about an alternative method where you dip paper towel into the delivery valve body and watch for the fuel to come out, but I've never tried it.

In my experience with the drip tube method, operating the hand pump and turning the crank at the same time was difficult, and it was hard to discern if the flow at the drip tube was slowing because of the crank angle or because the pressure in the pump body had fallen. Jacking the rear of the car solved this problem well.

Ted

Originally Posted by D240

Another option might be a "Tach N Tune" It's like setting the timing on a gas burner. It has a crystal pick up on the #1 injection line that senses the injection pulse. You mark the dampner at TDC and use a timing light. An LCD display shows the degrees of advance. There are other names for it I can't think of right now, but it is comonly used on marine diesels that use Bosch or Stanadyne pumps. Also used to time John Deere engines and they have their own tool, but it does the same thing and can be used on any PLN engine.

If you have a Deere dealer or repair center near you they may be able to do it. It's a dead on accurate way of pump timing. International used them on the 6.9, 7.3 DT360, DT366, DTA366 engines. Their part number for the tool is ZTSE4141. One of their older dealers may still have one laying around too.

Originally Posted by dkveuro

There's one, teeny weeny iddy biddy problem with this.......
The injection pulse/flash will not show the timing at 24 BTDC.

You need information on timing for each particular diesel engine and the amount of ignition lag/pulse/flash, to read off the angle on the pulley.

In other words...find an engine like yours that is timed properly and then see at what degree the timing device reads at idle. You will find that most show 2 to 15 degrees BTDC......After you know what it sets at, duplicate it on your engine.

Snap On Tools used to sell a 'Luminosity Probe' that screwed into the glow plug fitting and triggered your regular Zenon lamp timing gun.

BTW....Injection crack pressure will have a bearing on the timing too ....


______

Originally Posted by dannym

Has anyone ever tried the injection pump timing method that uses:
Mercedes Benz "factory Timing Tool" #W 601 589 05 21 00 ?

Danny

Originally Posted by dannym

Anyone??