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  #16  
Old 06-07-2005, 04:17 PM
sixto's Avatar
smoke gets in your eyes
 
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Both SDs I had were perky off the line. Dave/gsxr says the SDL should accelerate smoothly with imperceptible onset of boost. None of the half dozen SDLs I've been in are that way. Maybe the 603 in a 124 is a different beast as is the 103 in a 124 vs the asthmatic 300SE I used to have. My SDL is a slug until boost builds then it's gone. The butt-o-meter puts 0-60 in the 12 second range and half that time is getting the speedo needle off the low end stop.

I'm too lazy to tweak the ALDA. If I do any work on it it'll be to replace the ALDA with a stepper motor that reacts to a pressure transducer so I can set parameters without working under the intake manifold. Seeing as I don't have time to put foam in the passenger seat cushion that's sitting in my living room it's not very likely that I'll get to the ricer ALDA replacement in this lifetime

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

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  #17  
Old 06-07-2005, 04:22 PM
Brandon314159
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Now hattie....you best be careful and not dump too much cash into this car.

I can see it now...

...Euro headlights
...full body work
...etc etc.

I wouldn't go over a grand for that car. My 300SD sounds nicer than that one and I got it for 750 (rust free).

I am curious to see what you think of the 617 after you do all the fun tasks like adjusting valves, changing filters, etc. Should run good. Mine with 280K rips.

Take a look where those glow plugs are too...nice and easy to get to
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  #18  
Old 06-07-2005, 04:23 PM
Brandon314159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto
If I do any work on it it'll be to replace the ALDA with a stepper motor that reacts to a pressure transducer so I can set parameters without working under the intake manifold. Seeing as I don't have time to put foam in the passenger seat cushion that's sitting in my living room it's not very likely that I'll get to the ricer ALDA replacement in this lifetime
VERY interesting idea...using some sort of actuator...hmm.
Thats cool.
I guess with the diesel though...too much fuel isn't nessisarily such a bad thing like in the case of a gasser...
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  #19  
Old 06-07-2005, 05:01 PM
Hit Man X's Avatar
I LOVE BRUNETTES
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon314159
Take a look where those glow plugs are too...nice and easy to get to


One thing I'd prefer not to do often with those IP lines in the way.

Congrats on the 617, I dig mine a good deal. I've actually seen only one SDL around town here on the freeway. It's a long SOB.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

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  #20  
Old 06-07-2005, 05:24 PM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WANT '71 280SEL
Brian, if your car is slower off the line than a 617 you should adjust your ALDA. It seems to me that the 603 is quicker off the line than my '79 SD was. And the '79s were supposedly the fastest 617s.
I probably should, but, I agree with Sixto. Why screw around with something that isn't broken. I'm in no big hurry to get to the next traffic light. Why dump in a bunch of fuel when you aren't going anywhere?

I really value my 29.xx fuel economy, which has been consistant (sometimes over 30) since the arrival of the summer fuel.
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  #21  
Old 06-07-2005, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
I probably should, but, I agree with Sixto. Why screw around with something that isn't broken. I'm in no big hurry to get to the next traffic light. Why dump in a bunch of fuel when you aren't going anywhere?

I really value my 29.xx fuel economy, which has been consistant (sometimes over 30) since the arrival of the summer fuel.
Flexibility.

An unboosted SDL is an unbearable dog off the line and at highway speeds IMHO. Get it done, IT IS ESSENTIAL! The turbo takes several seconds to build, and makes you have to plan every move.

Most of the SDL's I've driven, you could put your foot to the floor making a right angle turn in first gear before boost hits. How could you stand it?

Mine(SDL) is boosted and I just got 30.4 mpg on diesel @ 2.229(local MOBIL truck-stop). I admit, however, that I have not seen this kind of mileage for at least a couple of years.

The only way you will burn more is if you are driving just as hard as you were prior to adjustment. And that's impossible. CCW for the ALDA makes your car more efficient in everyway.

What I'm trying to say is ALL 603's are slow until they are tweaked.
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1986 Porsche 951 (944 Turbo) (166000)

1978 Porsche 924 (99000)

1996 Nissan Pathfinder R50 (201000)
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  #22  
Old 06-07-2005, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DslBnz

The only way you will burn more is if you are driving just as hard as you were prior to adjustment. And that's impossible. CCW for the ALDA makes your car more efficient in everyway.

What I'm trying to say is ALL 603's are slow until they are tweaked.
OK, I'll give it a shot.

How many turns are you currently CCW from the factory setting?
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  #23  
Old 06-07-2005, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
OK, I'll give it a shot.

How many turns are you currently CCW from the factory setting?
All the way out. Then fasten the nut back into place. About 3 CCW turns on the adjustment screw(that's what mine took, every ALDA unit is different, of course). Since it is such a pig to get at, you should just make your first adjustment your final adjustment. and be careful not to force it(broken spring means no turbo).

If you're really patient, you can get into the ALDA with just a simple open end(I think the nut is an 8mm....Heck it could be a 10, it's been years) after you splice the cover. You may have to slightly bend or loosen a few fuel lines(maybe even a clip or two) from the IP to get access. The fat I-manifold pipes don't help things either, as the ALDA is wedged underneath. It's not easy.

It is worth far more than the effort involves. With a 300D it is a nice little tweak. With an SDL it is necessary and changes the personality of the car.

Good luck. Go find out what these cars can really be like.

Next step is to visit Myna Diesel.
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1987 300SDL (324000)

1986 Porsche 951 (944 Turbo) (166000)

1978 Porsche 924 (99000)

1996 Nissan Pathfinder R50 (201000)
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  #24  
Old 06-07-2005, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DslBnz
If you're really patient, you can get into the ALDA with just a simple open end(I think the nut is an 8mm....Heck it could be a 10, it's been years) after you splice the cover. You may have to slightly bend or loosen a few fuel lines(maybe even a clip or two) from the IP to get access.
Please explain this in more detail. I'm not with it.
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  #25  
Old 06-07-2005, 07:34 PM
Johnhef's Avatar
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After replacing the alda on my 603, I realized its not too hard to do. would it work just as well to remove the alda, make the adjustment and reinstall it each time? granted it takes longer, but its easier to make those small adjustments.
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350
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  #26  
Old 06-07-2005, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Please explain this in more detail. I'm not with it.
You've got to look into it. It's been years since I've done it. But when I tweaked my ALDA, I didn't have to remove the intake manifold. The ALDA is enshrouded by a mechanical rat's nest of fuel lines, vacuum connections, and shaded closely by the intake manifold. By loosening or removing some of those lines and the brackets that organize their paths, you will have more slack to work with.

You need to destroy the cover of the alda by using a screwdriver to pop the cap, then loosen the locknut that fastens the adjusting screwbolt that you need to adjust. Loosening the nut requires working with limited space, but I suppose it's even harder next when you have to wedge the screwdriver purpendicular to the slot of the adjustment screw(like a strike and dip in a geological fault), and turn it in small increments at a time: Working your way around the box(ALDA) until you are satisfied.

I did it that way because the intake manifold looks really difficult to remove(like I said....A rat's nest).

Make sure you're doing this inside, or you have OFF with Deet.
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1986 Porsche 951 (944 Turbo) (166000)

1978 Porsche 924 (99000)

1996 Nissan Pathfinder R50 (201000)
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  #27  
Old 06-07-2005, 07:38 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
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slug

my 350sdl is pretty impressive off the line. better by far than any 617 turbo i have driven i think. that includes the slightly lighter coupe.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #28  
Old 06-07-2005, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DslBnz
You've got to look into it. It's been years since I've done it. But when I tweaked my ALDA, I didn't have to remove the intake manifold. The ALDA is enshrouded by a mechanical rat's nest of fuel lines, vacuum connections, and shaded closely by the intake manifold. By loosening or removing some of those lines and the brackets that organize their paths, you will have more slack to work with.
I'm familiar with where it is and the difficulty in accessing it. I was confused when you stated that you had to "splice the cover". But, I have now figured out that you meant to "slice the cover".

I'm thinking that John has the right idea with this. Remove the ALDA, make the adjustment, and put it back in place.

Dave can do it in under two minutes, so, I should be able to get it out of there in 15 minutes or so.
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  #29  
Old 06-07-2005, 07:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth
my 350sdl is pretty impressive off the line. better by far than any 617 turbo i have driven i think. that includes the slightly lighter coupe.
Boy, I had to use every ounce of restraint today:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6330&item=4553621253&rd=1
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  #30  
Old 06-07-2005, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
I'm familiar with where it is and the difficulty in accessing it. I was confused when you stated that you had to "splice the cover". But, I have now figured out that you meant to "slice the cover".

I'm thinking that John has the right idea with this. Remove the ALDA, make the adjustment, and put it back in place.

Dave can do it in under two minutes, so, I should be able to get it out of there in 15 minutes or so.

Splice? Whoops! Yeah, thanks.

Time to get back on medication. Anyway, I am curious as to how it turns out. Really, I am burdened with ADD so if I were to attempt something new by pulling apart all those bits, I'd have trouble getting everything situated back together.

Remember the days of the 617. Everything, most notably the linkage, ALDA, and injectors, was all exposed and easy to access.

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1986 Porsche 951 (944 Turbo) (166000)

1978 Porsche 924 (99000)

1996 Nissan Pathfinder R50 (201000)
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