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Axleshaft inner boot leaking oil
Over the weekend I found the left side of my 1985 300D Turbo's axleshaft's inner boot started leaking oil.
Today I called a local independent Mercedes service shop, he quoted me the following options for repair: (1) Replace inner boot(Left side only): $630, parts and labor. (2) Replace with a rebuild axleshaft (Left side only): $640, parts and labor He recommended with the re-build option. What do you guys think? Thank you David _____________________ 1985 300D Turbo |
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it sounds like a scam to me... most cheap rebuild axles are junk, if he is saying the parts cost on the boot is same as axle, it's a junk axle, or he just does not want to change the boot.
if the axle was making noise, he is right, you should change the axle, but if it JUST started leaking, you may be ok with just a boot. but the shops qualified to change the boot are few and far between. John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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Changing the boot requires more labor than replacing the axle shaft.
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I replaced my left rear on my 83 300D in my driveway. Cost at Kragen auto parts was $75 + $60core. This is a 1 man job, took me about 6 hours because beer was involved, and I've never done something like this before.
If you have the money, you should replace the right side as well. Reason being: You have to remove the back plate on your differential and drain all the oil to get to the inner C-Clamp that holds the axle in. I didn't have the money to do the right one, even though the boot was completely destroyed I can give you step by step instructions if you'd like. Also, the new outer retaining screw that goes through your rotor and onto the new axle is crap. I snapped it right off and had to dremel a notch and use my impact hammer to get it out. Hold onto your old one, it works great and is a much higher quality. Edit: Pictures here: http://cityhicks.com/merc/halfshaft/ That axle is either refered as a 'half-shaft' or 'half-axle'. Kragen and Napa called it a half-shaft, Pep-Boys and Autozone called it a half-axle.
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http://www.cityhicks.com 87 Honda Accord LXi (sold) 72 Chevy Chevelle 4-door 350 (sold) :'( 91 Nissan 240sx (sold) :'( 92 Toyota Celica (sold) 89 Chevy G-20 Conversion Van (sold) 91 Honda CRX (sold to friend) 81 Lincoln Continental (pimp ride project - sold) http://tinyurl.com/2nddq7 :'( 90 Nissan 240sx (waiting for tranny) 91 Cadillac Brougham Limo 350 (party cruiser) 06 Tank 150cc Scooter (destroyed) 90 Geo Metro Off Road Monster: http://tinyurl.com/36ry87 83 300D Turbo Diesel ~276k Last edited by Goatspunk; 05-02-2007 at 03:38 PM. |
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Great pics! Ya if you dont mind doing a step by step that would be awesome. I have a feeling I will be taking this job on soon unfortunately.
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Quote:
This is a pretty straight forward unbolt-bolt job. Either side same thing, basically you break the lug nuts free and remove the wheel's center cap and break the 13 mm bolt in the center of the wheel carrier free, block the wheels, put the car in Neutral, jack the car up on that side enough to get the wheel of the ground and block the body securely at the jack pad. I use criss-crossed blocks of 4X4 and 6X6 landscape timber, you'll be laying under a low point of the car yanking pretty hard on things so you propably need something more solid than a jack stand, the wood cribbing helped build the pyramids and works great under conditions like this! Get another jack that you can use under the differential, hydraulic/scissors etc. Put the jack under the diff and lift it so it touches, position the jack slightly forward so it's pad is not contacting the rear cover. Now is the best time to get out your 14 mm Allen wrench socket and breaker bar and make sure that you can get both the diff oil fill and drain plugs free, you have to be certain you can do this before you open up the diff as the old oil will come out and you'll need to be able to put new oil in once everything is R&R and buttoned up. Auto Zone has a three socket package with the large 1/2" drive 14 mm Allen wrench for about $8 if you don't already have one. Remove the four 10 mm bolts holding the diff cover mount in place, this will now allow you to lower the entire center section. Don't bother trying to unbolt the two large bolts that attach the mount to the diff, its much easier with the mount completely out of the way. Now you'll need a drain pan to catch the diff oil, remove the eight bolts holding the diff cover in place, take the upper most 7 bolts out and then the last one holding it in place, remove it catching the oil! If you by chance drain the oil from the diff's drain plug there will still be more oil that will come out when you remove the cover! There is a large C clip in a groove on the end of the axle inside the diff. You can rotate the tire to bring it around there is a small hole in the center of the clip you can use a bent probe or pick to hook it, its usually to difficult to simply yank it off, I use a large screw driver to help pry the the tip of the pick/hook also. Then you need to unbolt and remove the wheel/tire and also unbolt and hang the caliper out of the way. You then remove the bolt in the wheel carrier center along with the spacer. The axle is actually free now, jack the diff center piece up as high as it will go this expands the distance and therefore the room to manuaver the axle out. I use a large brass drift and a 3 lb sledge hammer to loosen and move the axle stub backwards out of the splined bore of the wheel carrier. Once it is free you can get back under the rear and with a large screwdriver or pry tool you can get it's tip past the end of the axle stub between it and the backside of the wheel carrier. Sometimes the axle joints will telescope inwards enough and the end will come free pretty easily, if it doesn't you can rotate the wheel carrier while prying the axle stub end and eventually it will find enough room and that end will come free. Then you either pull the other end from the diff or you might need to poke inside the diff and just give the end of the shaft a little pry pressure to break the grime seal where the axle meets the diff. Then you could use the screwdriver in the now existing space between the axle's flange and the diff's flange. There is a spacer on the diff end of the axle, sometimes it comes out on the axle end sometimes it stays inside the diff just past the seal, if it does come out on the axle just reach in there with a clean finger and hook it out. You'll need to put that spacer onto the replacement axle when you install it. Installation is the exact reverse. With the rear cover off you can clean it up and the vent on top of it. I put some Never Seize on the splined end of the axle particularly if it was already rusted in there to begin with, you need Blue LockTite on the four diff mount bolts and i put it on the wheel carrier center bolt that hold the axle end. You dont need anything on the diff cover and I haven't ever needed any sealer between the diff and its cover, some people use a thin RTV or Hylomar or Permatex #2 Form A Gasket Non Hardening. Re-fill with gear oil and your good to go, good luck. If you have a 18 or 24 " breaker bar 1/2" drive that will make the diff plugs easier, spray them good an clean with carb or brake cleaner, make sure the Allen wrench is fully seated, use one hand on the breaker bar handle and use the other to keep the tool square in the socket. The plug in the diff is usually easier, the one in the aluminum cover is sometimes a bear, but a propane torch to heat the aluminum around the plug will be a great help if its stuck. SAY THANKYOU TO BILLYBOB FOR THE WRITEUP.happy wrenching |
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hmm 600 seems high..i dno bout the w123 but my w201 (200k) needed a replacement on the passenger side half-axle..costed $330 parts+labor..
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
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Thank you for all the replies.
To: "Goatspunk" , thanks for the photos To: "rebreath", thank you for your detailed step by step instructions. David ________________ 1985 300D Turbo |
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Let me just recomend that you don't buy the cheap reman axles. I bought some from partsamerica/checker (cardones) and had to replace one within 6 months.
Other people have had good luck with CVJ. Unless you don't mind taking the time to "claim on your lifetime warranty" with the cheap ones (ie: do the whole job over in a few months for "free"), I would go with the CVJ's which aren't even that much more expensive.
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1979 240D w/4 Speed Manual, Light Blue Estimated 225-275K Miles - "Lil' Chugs"
Sold but fondly remembered: 1981 300TD Turbo Tan 235K miles, 1983 300SD Astral Silver 224K miles |
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I suspect that I have a bad CV on the right side of my 300D............what are the symptoms?............I have a vibration above 35 or so and when I put the car in neutral and push it forward by pushing on the right rear fender I can hear a cracking sound that seems to be coming from the right rear wheel area...........any thoughts?.......thanks
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when the CV on my 190E went..i hear this loud ass claking of metal..sounded like someone stuck somthing in the wheel so that every time a spoke came around it would hit it..kinda like the ol playing card in the bike spokes...but probably best thing to do it take it to ur indy and have him put it up in the air and look at it..
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out. Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability! (4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!) 82 300SD 145k 89 420SEL 210k 89 560SEL 118k 90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010 90 560SEL 154k 91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k 93 190E 3.0 235k 93 300E 195k |
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Flex Gun
For $600+, I would buy the Flex Gun described in the DieselGiant pictorial ($249) and have at it.
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#13
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RE: Axleshaft inner boot leaking oil
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This what my bad CV joint sounds like
Quote:
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1985 300D Turbo "Evolution is God's way of giving upgrades" Francis Collins |
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Would it be wise for one to install new drive shaft support and bearing at the same time?
*Does the drive shaft need to be dropped in order to put the support and bearing in?
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Thank you for all the help guys! "Old Gretchen" <--1983 300SD w126 cali. emissions (so it says on wdw sticker) LIght metallic blue with dark blue interior. Odo stuck at 160,500 mi. www.handydo.joolo.com |
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