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  #1  
Old 06-04-2005, 06:33 PM
Dukesdiesel
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Starter issue and new fuse

Today I was investigating the source of the problem I've had my power windows not rolling down and bought some new fuses since #14 was blown. I put the fuse in and started the car (and noticed the horn worked again after being out of commission ) and my starter wouldn't shut off, although my engine had started. The starter just continued to run although it had already done it's job and the engine was going. The previous owner of this car told me that this was an issue, but it somehow magically stopped before I got the car from him. I have since been driving this car around, with no starter issues and a blown #14 fuse (and no horn!) up until today. Has anyone had any similar experience with a starter that won't quit? I'd hate to take the fuse back out just so that I could drive the car.
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  #2  
Old 06-04-2005, 06:56 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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seems

like the fuse is unrelated. sounds like a bad bendex in the starter. sometimes you can get it to throw the gear out by revving up the engine.
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  #3  
Old 06-04-2005, 10:47 PM
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The Bendix is the electromagnetic slug and accompanying levers which pull the starter gear into the ring on the flywheel.... but against the resistance of a spring...
If there is dirt or gunk in that tube the slug runs in it can interfere with the spring bringing the gear out of engagement..
OR the spring can be broken...
You need to address it immediately to keep from possibly doing MUCH greater harm ....
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Old 06-09-2005, 03:06 PM
Dukesdiesel
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Pulled the fuse that I replaced back out again, started the engine and the starter seemed fine. It didn't stay engaged, (as far as I could tell by the lack of noise that it makes when it stays engaged). Something about the #14 fuse is causing the problem.
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  #5  
Old 06-09-2005, 04:02 PM
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Is your key springing back to the run position after the car starts? Look at the wiring diagram for your car--what does fuse 14 control?
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2005, 04:09 PM
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Sounds like someone has "improved" the factory wiring. I'd start at the starter and work my way back until I found a connection that didn't look like it was made in Germany. According to the manual, the starter circuit goes nowhere near fuse 14.
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  #7  
Old 06-09-2005, 11:17 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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fantom

i think that the relationship of the fuse to the problem is fantomish. the bendix failing is a sporadic thing that gradually gets worse...oftentimes.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. It still needs upholstery redone...I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #8  
Old 06-10-2005, 02:54 PM
Dukesdiesel
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I'm going to test the fuse replacement and start one more time to determine if indeed they are related. I'll then list what the fuse schematic on the inside of the cover says that the #14 is in circuit with. I know the the horn and some of the exhaust components are in the circuit.

I'm having some trouble interpreting the wiring schematics, since it has been a long time since I learned what the symbols mean etc. Can anyone suggest a good "refresher" in electronic circuits? I'm still trying to track down my window problem on the wiring diagrams as well.
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  #9  
Old 06-13-2005, 12:13 AM
Dukesdiesel
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I checked fuse #14 again by taking it out, starting the engine, and then putting it back in again and trying to start the engine. The result: No fuse-engine starts; fuse in place-engine tries to start but starter won't disengage. Definately seems like there is a short somewhere that involves both the starter and one of the things that are use fuse #14. The things along the path of fuse #14 are (according to the guide on the inside of the fuse box cover):

"back-up lamp, warn. monitor term 8, emission control, horn, switch-over valve overload protection device, relay auxiliary fan term. 86, control unit/water pump/heat. water valve for clim. contr. system, (autom. transm.)"

My Chilton's manual wiring diagrams indicates the back-up warning lights as the only thing that is in the circuit with fuse #14.

Another thing that I noticed today that I should have noticed first off was that the fuse that was originall in the #14 spot was a 16 amp fuse, while the wiring diagrams and fuse designation on the inside of the lid indicate that it should be an 8 amp fuse. I even tried to place an 8 amp fuse in place of the 16 amp, and of course it blew out the first time I tried to start the engine (duh). For some reason, the previous owner was putting a 16 amp fuse where an 8 amp one should go, which makes me think that indeed there have been some alterations in the wiring.

Any ideas?
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  #10  
Old 06-13-2005, 01:05 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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fused

it looks as if you are on the right track. maybe there are wires crossed somewhere.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. It still needs upholstery redone...I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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