If you read the archives and do some searching...you will find your answer. :) There is a decently sized handfull of people who have attempted (or adjusted). Have you read this whole thread?

I have had great sucess. Awaiting a weekend to mount up one of my IC's :)

I have
 

I have read the whole thread. I think it took two days. I know you have had yours adjusted for some time, and alot of people talk about wanting to, but I wasn't sure if many had. I'd really like to, but it seems like there is always something else to do (upper control arms, need new brake pads, etc). Someday....

There are other threads....ERGO the comment about searching....


You need to know a lot of stuff before you really want to open the IP up.

I agree with BHD on this one...this is NOT for the weak harted. If a tool slips and damages your IP...you are out some SERIOUS cash.

Note: you have to make your own tool (or buy one) as well...so be forwarned :)

I followed this thread closely this past summer, and I just skimmed through it again. Suprisingly, It doesn't appear that anyone has actually tried to use Brandon's technique to adjust the full load stop on the 617. Yes, others have adjusted the 617 full load stop. However I would like to know if his method (homemade spanner wrench etc...) actually has worked for anyone. I would like to adjust the full load stop, but I don't want to get involved with it if it's not possible to do it the way Brandon describes.

Brandon, I really want to see some more videos of your 300sd's performance. Thanks for opening the door for us. Please post some more vids, but make sure your not going down any Cascade mountains this time:P

Like I said earlier....you didn't read the other threads if you are making this statement....you need to find and read those too....because I did the full load adjsutment before Brandon did.....and there are enough issues you NEED to read these before you jump in....you can easily have a runaway engine if you go even a little too far.

We've already discussed my choice of roads...:rolleyes:

If you don't think my outline works then you are more than welcoem to not do it. I posted it as the INFORMATION for how to PROPERLY increase the full load. Now adjusting everything else back to spec so you idle properly, can shut down, etc. is up to you. This is what BHD is talking about (in short).

I haven't had time to take anymore videos because I am working on a rough idle problem. Something about 291k miles seems to have produced a rough idle... hehe

Thats the full load adjustment so take it or leave it. I am working on disassembling my other IP (300D) and taking pictures/diagrams and showing how it all works. Hopefully have a detailed documentation for the web.

You can ask my pyrometer, anyone behind me, or the opacity of the exhaust if the full load adjustment is legit.

And again I 2nd this...different engines respond VERY differently. Mine has been running strong adjusted for quite some time. Other than this odd idle issue (possibly a worn out rack dampner pin) its been working great and is faster than any other turbo's I've been in...

and example being mine whent immediatly to a 4K rpm idle when it started...A tad farther and it would have run it straight to the governer...

and that was with a fairly conservative adjustment....do a search read EVERYTHING related to these before you touch anything...you can render your IP junk or worse render your engine junk if you don't understand how things interact....adn this has been posted before and its in the archives. I have found I can take more fuel at max RPM and load but idle starts having problems before I reach the point My pyro says no more.

Could the pyrometer be installed inplace of the EGR assembly? I'm prolly gonna remove it anyway.

You want the Pyro on a central point that reads every cylinder....put it where the EGR is and its likely to give an inaccurate reading...(likely cooler than it really is) and you want it to be PRE turbo...

Yep, that would be a great location for convenience. But, after looking at the manifold carefully, that EGR exhaust port runs all the way to the central hub of the manifold via a relatively small 3/4" passage. The temperature at the end of the passage, with no exhaust flow, will be much cooler than the actual exhaust temperature. So, unfortunately, this location is out.

I was recently successful in tapping the EGR exhaust port for 3/4" NPT. A nice stainless socket head set screw is sitting in there in lieu of the copper plate and exhaust clamp.:cool:

This I like to hear :)

Regarding the EGR as a pyro port...you'd have to get the probe so deep to get it to meet up with all the cylinders I don't thing it would hold up to the vibration very well. Just yank the manifolds, clean them all up, and do the job right. :)

Hey all,

Anyone care to give me a quick verification of idle fuel adjustment on the 617 pump?

I read that the small screw below and to the left of the torque capsule (full load adjustment) is the idle speed.

But looking inside my spare pump that I have diassembled...it looks like this wouldn't necessarily adjust idle.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Here is a picture for reference: http://brandon.importtransmissionexc...s/diagram1.jpg

Hey all,

Well since it seems that nobody else here has figured out how to turn the idle fuel adjustment down on the IP after upping the full load adjustment, I went searching.

I stopped by the IP shop today and talked with their 1 bosch pump man. He says that they get the mercedes pumps in about 1 a month or less (guess they rarely fail) and they are, literally, the hardest pump they have to work on. The inline 5 pumps basically are nasty becuase any adjustment you make to one thing affects everything else and thus reaching equillibrium can be rather difficult.

I showed up, about 9:45am and talked to Kyle (great guy!!!). Dad sends a lot of rebuilds their way so they are espically friendly :D

Anywho, talked with them for awhile and finally convinced them that I am serious about this stuff and then we started talkin. He whipped out the bosch service manual (I LAID MY EYES UPON IT!!!!!) and it looked right out of the late 70's.

Anywho, he basically said that he has to re-learn these pumps each time becuase they are so few and far between and so complex that its hard t oget them down pat.

However I found out what I needed to know.

I really can't post EVERYTHING I found out (I have some copies of the manuals I am workin on) but I did find how you lower the idle speed. It involves TWO SCREWS for idle.

Also I found out why my engine revs to 5700+ RPM...one of the first screws I ever adjusted and didn't affect engine power a whole lot ended up being the one that actually sets the max RPM of the IP. They do it very interestingly and it looks like I could probably set mine to redline at 6000RPM before I ran out of adjustment. I won't do this of course but its interesting regardless.

I am going to do some adjustments on my 300SD and see if I can drop the idle down as per their specifications. Its not a simple (1 turn this much and 1/2 turn on this and etc. etc)

Sounds complicated but I'll try to make it simple.

Anyone wants some SPECIFIC info I could probably help you out but I don't want to post it on the public domain since I was privy to some copyrighted material. If the adjustments work out nicely I'll let you guys know. Hopefully work on it a bit tonight and see how it goes from there.

Just thought I would give an update...


...where do I apply to become the 617 IP guru? :D :) ;)