That is correct - I have my temp probe in that pre-existing hole. My EGT reached approx 1300F by 100-110mph. Ambient temp was 85F. Coolant temp started at 95°C and peaked a little over 100°C.

:o

Ok, I went to the local Transit truck stop and filled up with the big nozzle stuff. So I have 1/4 bio and the rest dino. I got out my stopwatch and did a few runs. Both runs my 0-60mph times were 8secs flat. I also did a
0-80mph and it was 14.5secs. This is with the full load at 1.5 turns.

I was power braking and I did leave a decent cloud on take off and a good bit of tire squealing. I have the rubber all season mercedes mats and the passenger one flip away from the firewall and doubled over on take off. There was no visible smoke after that.

I am awaiting my g-tech pro and I will report back.

Brandon, were you able to get to the dyno?

Oh yeah - could y'all mention what elevation above sea level you are at? I'm at 2400' and the local dragstrip here is at 2700'. My spreadsheets and text files note the elevation for each data set. The closer you are to sea level, the stronger the off-idle power will be.

:o

I figured we are pretty close to sea level. So I did a google search and it said Annapolis, Md is 0-92 feet above sea level.

I have my cat hollowed out and my rear muffler removed. There was barely any noticeable increase in decibels when I removed the muffler and zero change when I hollowed out the cat. Has anyone removed everything including the premuffler (which I still have) to notice if there is a decibel increase that is annoying or obnoxious?

I've got the cat and middle muffler (resonator) replaced with a straight pipe. I have the stock rear muffler. The middle muffler is basically straight through with perforations in the pipe - don't ask me why it's so big! I haven't posted photos of that yet. It's a little louder than I'd like under load but overall it's not bad. Didn't see any power gains but EGT's dropped a little. This is on the 87 300D, btw.

:o

Sweet update fellas...
my lil D is still running, 320+K on it now, speedo quit working and I dont ever plan on fixing it....Still my primary mode of transportation, working on selling my GTP so I can buy yet another diesel, (a 4wd 5sp 12V cummins) :D
Until then, It's nice reading about perfing out the diesels :)
I dont really feel like taking the car down for potentially 2-3 days while I adjust the full load....but when I get the truck it will be a different story.

Man, if I had a video camera...
My friend got an 83 300D with 150K on it for 1100..so of course naturally we have to see how mine compares to his...well his beat mine and the alda and boost have not been touched. I guess thats what 150,000 less miles does....anyway we had a little impromptu burnout session and I had both of my tires going and ripped a donut on pavement. It was insane. I've never laughed so hard in my life when it kicked around...imagine seeing a 123 ripping a donut and engolfing the car in tire smoke.

The straight pipe exhaust is cool too. I swear I get more people giving me thumbs up than any vehicle I've ever owned and its a rusty piece of junk. It will be much cooler when its intercooled and the pump is maxed out and it billows oodles of thick black smoke.

Hope you don't plan on maxing out the pump without a pyrometer in there first...small adjustments...small adjustments. :)
You frequent the W-Body forum?

My pyro buries at/past 1200F and it barely even puffs smoke. If you are billowing smoke I have a feeling you gettin' hot.

Update on the SD:
Possible new location for the IC...just working on piping.

Already have a pryo..I have a ricer intake and straight exhaust 12psi of boost and I can touch 1100F when I'm very hard on it (to the floor for 1-2 miles)

Intercooler is a must have....these turbos dont flow enough air either.
HX-35 or a T3/T4 hybrid would be sweet.

I'm sooo envious of my friend. He has just picked up an 87' 300D with 175k for $1500. 603 anyone? I'm pissed. Hard to find that cheap! :mad:

My 300SD before it was ever modified (only ALDA adjustment) would touch 1100F in the same situation (long haul to get it up there) and I have a muffler and still had the stock air cleaner...

The T3/T4 Hybrid idea was already discussed...

I turned up my OM603 pump today. Details are here:

http://***************/forum/showthread.php?p=2262&posted=1#post2262

I need to get a water injection system pronto. Anyone have suggestions for a WI vendor? An intercooler is not an option at the moment. I want the same long/narrow front-mount unit that Casey is using on his 1987 300TD, but I need to locate an AMG bumper first. Casey just cut his stock bumper but I don't want to do that - I want the stealth appearance. ;) The water injection setup should allow the same cooling effect and low EGT's, it just requires filling the reservoir at every fuel fillup. Helluva lot cheaper, too (<$200). I'll have some 1/4 mile data from the dragstrip after the club races this Friday night (July 1). Stay tuned...

:o

Dave, how do you adjust the max rpm. I think you are wise to get the intercooler Casey has. I believe with it and relocating the air inlet to the other side of the intake definately lowers the EGTs most significantly.

Adjusting screw 2m clockwise 1/2 turn increases governed speed by 150 rpms. I haven't adjusted this yet with my current IP.

That Holset is a large turbo, I'd fear of too much lag with it unless I can crank up enough low speed fuel to help off set that difference (which I do not belive can be done).

A T3/T4 is cheap, easy to find, and can be built with a ball bearing center section as opposed to that divided thrust bearing to spool faster. Port that exhaust housing you'll have more CFM at the same pressure level and spool quicker than stock...

Let's not forget a slightly larger downpipe will also help to reduce EGTs too.

Mauri H. has given us a guideline of things to do...do a search and you will find it... Yes the pump can be turned up by the pump shop in finland for a cool price of $1400 or so if I remember correctly..
Mauri's rig has an HX-40. I think the reason we are seeing such high temps even after intercooling is due to the fact that our stock turbos are way too small and they cannot keep up with the demands of a "turned up" engine. Mauri stressed this in his previous posts. We need to ditch out stock turbos :D
The finn pump shop is key. Full load adjustment is done externally, no more cursing and spending 1+hr just to turn the screw 1/2 turn...

The Finn shop, although cool and very good at what they do, is not key. THere are plenty of shops in the states that can do what they do.
As I put in another thread, these pumps are just bosch pumps and aren't anything special. There are so many factors that go into the system that you pretty much STILL have to do tuning with internal screws (atleast on the 617 pump...it has a much different goverer as compared to the 606).

They add larger elements and externam adjustability on the 606 pumps but on these 617's, its just not as easy becuase of the size of the adjusting screw/nut setup. Adding larger elements can be done in the shop (it pretty much has to be) but you still have to tune fuel up/down depending on turbo, exhaust, etc.

Coarse full load adjustment (ie..elements) is done externally...
Fine adjustment is done difficultly (on the 617) or easily (the modded 606 pump rear cover)..
:)